Catastrophic coolant loss causes spin at Mosport
#241
What about just putting two spot welds on each coupling? Seems pretty in-obtrusive compared to some of the other solutions. Should be just enough to keep the coupling seated.
After seeing the screw fix, it doesn't give me the warm fuzzies. I've also seen the weld all around fix. I've had numerous people that has potential problems as well (ie heating/ruining the epoxy and then a potential failure of the weld due to the differences in metals).
It would be great to have a threaded coupling, like you get from the pvc isle at home depot. Thread it in, loc tite, and forget it. But then you'd need to tap each opening on the block and custom fab the male threaded couplings. Which would be thicker to accommodate the threads and having a smaller ID which could create problems too.
After seeing the screw fix, it doesn't give me the warm fuzzies. I've also seen the weld all around fix. I've had numerous people that has potential problems as well (ie heating/ruining the epoxy and then a potential failure of the weld due to the differences in metals).
It would be great to have a threaded coupling, like you get from the pvc isle at home depot. Thread it in, loc tite, and forget it. But then you'd need to tap each opening on the block and custom fab the male threaded couplings. Which would be thicker to accommodate the threads and having a smaller ID which could create problems too.
Step one is probably to secure the hose from "working" on the fitting. This reminds me of a common problem that what looks "good" on the hoist, doesn't reflect what happens when the engine torques the mounts over and everything gets stretched one way or the other. If each of the hoses that connect to the fittings that have failed are presently on a bracket connected to the firewall, perhaps they should relocate those brackets to the engine to stop the relative movement.
#242
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Welding aluminum successfully requires it to be super clean. BTDT (I'm an amateur welder - far from a pro.) Engine out. No way around it. It won't be cheap, but that's what I'm doing. I don't want more joints/connections added to the equation. I want fewer joints. To me that means welding, nothing else.
btw, do you know what alloys are used with these two parts (casting and tubing) that you have concerns about? Many different alloys can be welded together (4043 is a great general purpose filler rod) so I was wondering what was on your mind.
Cheers,
btw, do you know what alloys are used with these two parts (casting and tubing) that you have concerns about? Many different alloys can be welded together (4043 is a great general purpose filler rod) so I was wondering what was on your mind.
Cheers,
#243
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Well, my engine is currently out. For now. But I don't have much time to make up my mind as the parts are on their way from Germany.
Nobody I've spoken to locally likes the welding idea because of the different metals. Concerns are that the weld would fail, and the overheated epoxy (as a result of the welding) would let go too.
Then again I am not a mechanic or a welder so please don't listen to anything I have to say
Nobody I've spoken to locally likes the welding idea because of the different metals. Concerns are that the weld would fail, and the overheated epoxy (as a result of the welding) would let go too.
Then again I am not a mechanic or a welder so please don't listen to anything I have to say
#244
to get some fittings of the appropriate shape and size which are made from
a compatible metal. Considering the time, expense and safety issues, buying
6 more fittings may be worth it.
#245
Rennlist Member
You bring up a great point. I think part of the problem is that the block is cast and the couplings are extruded. Not only different alloys but different production process. This is probably why Porsche just glues them in
#246
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I don't see tack welding as a solution. When the glue lets go, the tack weld will hold the fitting in place but fluid is going to leak anyway. When mine blew out, the fit into the water pump was loose, i.e., the glue seals the thing.
#247
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Cheers,
#248
Eurotech, 508-879-9911 in MA does a great job of tig welding the coolant joints. ON this web site go to search type in eurotech click on coolant systems solutions go to the 2nd page for your answers. TO me this is the only correct fix.
Regards
GG300
Regards
GG300
#249
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...solutions.html
specific post:
https://rennlist.com/forums/7630503-post16.html
(speaking from several years of practicing TIG myself, the welds look perfect)
Seems to me like the alternative of getting parts that are one-piece forged/cast from another version of the GT1 is more appealing.
And going to electric power steering pump.
And going to electric a/c compressor
And, and, and ...
#253
Ironically, that's really good news for the rest of us! Please have them photograph the leaks and get a Porsche regional service supervisor to see the car before it's touched. They don't have documented incidents and it will make the world of difference to see these being properly documented.
#254
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ok this is freaking me out now. I saw some coolant on the floor of the garage behind the left rear. I called my shop and they said that they pressure tested the system and it was fine and replaced the top hoses already. It was probably overfill as they topped off the coolant. Should I be concerned? I'm at the track now!