New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**
10-20-2011, 07:20 AM
#152
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I didnt sift through all the pages in this post so someone else may have suggested this; so I thought I would mention in case it is helpful in the least -
For my race car I use a heavy duty extendable hood prop between the brake pedal and seat to lock the wheels for torqing.
At least in my racecar it works awesome so I can do it alone...
As it is a pain to ask others to help :-)
For my race car I use a heavy duty extendable hood prop between the brake pedal and seat to lock the wheels for torqing.
At least in my racecar it works awesome so I can do it alone...
As it is a pain to ask others to help :-)
10-20-2011, 07:57 AM
#153
Rennlist Member
i had the center locks replaced by dealer and just took the wheels off. needed to add an extension bar onto my 40" breaker bar and jump on it to loosen it! it was way higher than 600ftlb! i had my torque wrench set to 600ftlb just to check and it clicked after much grunting. anyone else have a dealer really crank these things down?
.After doing wheel changes the whole year(season) the sequence now works well and it is no big deal anymore. Only thing I need is a tool to apply the break so I do not need to ask someone for help. Rears are fine - both - make and break - with handbreak and in 1st gear. But front is tough to loosen. Even when still on ground. You just spin the wheel but do not loosen the nut
Take care all together
Peter
PS: nein, das ist kein deutsches Ritual :-)
Peter
10-20-2011, 10:08 AM
#154
Race Director
To losen my wheels...I'm cheating just a little....while the car is still on the ground I will use my Precision Torque Wrench in the CCW (counter closkwise) position and just break the nut lose. This helps especially with the front wheels. Then I jack the car up and finish taking the wheel nut off.
Even with the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can not break the front wheel nut lose unless I start the car and use the power brake with someone standing on the pedal. However with the car on the ground and using the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can crack the front nuts then jack the car and finish the job.
Even with the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can not break the front wheel nut lose unless I start the car and use the power brake with someone standing on the pedal. However with the car on the ground and using the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can crack the front nuts then jack the car and finish the job.
10-20-2011, 10:37 AM
#155
Nordschleife Master
To losen my wheels...I'm cheating just a little....while the car is still on the ground I will use my Precision Torque Wrench in the CCW (counter closkwise) position and just break the nut lose. This helps especially with the front wheels. Then I jack the car up and finish taking the wheel nut off.
Even with the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can not break the front wheel nut lose unless I start the car and use the power brake with someone standing on the pedal. However with the car on the ground and using the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can crack the front nuts then jack the car and finish the job.
Even with the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can not break the front wheel nut lose unless I start the car and use the power brake with someone standing on the pedal. However with the car on the ground and using the Truck Brake Pedal Depressor I can crack the front nuts then jack the car and finish the job.
With the power brake assist you will be fine to tak ethem all off in teh air
10-20-2011, 11:00 AM
#156
Guys,
The directions that come with the PI torque wrench clearly state that it is not to be used as a breaker bar.
It will work both ways - left handed or right handed threads.....
The directions that come with the PI torque wrench clearly state that it is not to be used as a breaker bar.
It will work both ways - left handed or right handed threads.....
10-21-2011, 01:44 AM
#157
How about they just provide said tool from the get go?!!!
10-22-2011, 01:38 PM
#158
That's one of those things where the first time you do it you spend 5 minutes per cap being super cautious and putting tape all over not to scratch the centerlock.
After the 20th time you just jam the screwdriver in and pull it off in one go
And putting grease on it really helps a lot. Simple vaseline works fine.
10-22-2011, 01:52 PM
#159
Can we just run without the dust caps on while at the track?
And then put the caps back on when driving home (for those of us that drive to/from the track)?
Or is that very bad to run with the lock exposed, potentially getting dust, debris, water, and rubber in/on it?
And then put the caps back on when driving home (for those of us that drive to/from the track)?
Or is that very bad to run with the lock exposed, potentially getting dust, debris, water, and rubber in/on it?
