New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**
09-17-2010, 12:15 PM
#46
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All the strategic use of grease and wheels-off procedures look a lot like good practice for high-stress fasteners to me. Lubricants have a significant influence on achieved clamp loads for the same torque, but you don't want to trap too much grease on the clamped surfaces that may ultimately creep out and release the load... With all the thread and bearing surfaces involved here, it is no surprise to find such detailed instructions.
Problem is for this application, it becomes very difficult and yields few benefits.
Next will be a clarification about how many miles are allowed in between a re-torque...
This throws quite a torque wrench into my next purchase decision.
Mike
Problem is for this application, it becomes very difficult and yields few benefits.
Next will be a clarification about how many miles are allowed in between a re-torque...
This throws quite a torque wrench into my next purchase decision.
Mike
09-17-2010, 02:23 PM
#49
A few years ago, a guy in the shop made the mistake of torquing his CL wheels (with slicks) on his Cup car on the ground. He ended up having to replace all his wheel bearings.
While the cups all have air jacks, torquing the wheels is a two person job - one on the brakes, and one on the wrench - all done with the car off the ground.
While the cups all have air jacks, torquing the wheels is a two person job - one on the brakes, and one on the wrench - all done with the car off the ground.
Regardless of F/R I tighten and seat the nuts as far as can be done with the suppplied socket before final torqueing. Wouldn't that serve to prevent undue load on the bearings?
09-17-2010, 03:18 PM
#50
Rennlist Member
Did anyone else notice mention of "assembly aid 9794 (for vehicles with PCCB)" on page one of the .pdf?
I wonder if this is a wheel locator tool ala "the big red *****" ... that might be cheaper than $350???
I wonder if this is a wheel locator tool ala "the big red *****" ... that might be cheaper than $350???
Last edited by Larry Cable; 09-17-2010 at 03:35 PM.
It used to just be no Wart/Sunroof/TC/SC/PASM and now I can add no CL wheels
09-17-2010, 03:31 PM
#52
Rennlist Member
What do people use for as a source for a good breaker bar???
09-17-2010, 03:45 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
I don't understand the issue with the car being on or off the ground. Does that have an effect on the torque measured by the tq wrench? If that's the case then even the 5 lug guys will have problems also. Or is this a case of the CL not engaging properly?
09-17-2010, 03:50 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
Imagine two "cones" one "female" the other "male", if you insert the male into the female while applying a force "downwards" to the female this will cause more friction between the two at the point at which both surfaces meet at the point opposite the circumference where the force is being applied ...
make sense?
this is only a guess btw ...
09-17-2010, 03:53 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
I think the concern is that if the wheel is on the ground while torquing the weight of the car downwards may cause the cone to engage with the hub ecentrically resulting in a false (lower actual) torque and/or a poor "fit"
Imagine two "cones" one "female" the other "male", if you insert the male into the female while applying a force "downwards" to the female this will cause more friction between the two at the point at which both surfaces meet at the point opposite the circumference where the force is being applied ...
make sense?
this is only a guess btw ...
Imagine two "cones" one "female" the other "male", if you insert the male into the female while applying a force "downwards" to the female this will cause more friction between the two at the point at which both surfaces meet at the point opposite the circumference where the force is being applied ...
make sense?
this is only a guess btw ...
09-17-2010, 03:55 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
09-17-2010, 03:59 PM
#57
Rennlist Member
i bought that 40" long 3/4" breaker bar from tooltopia. it does the job fine. however i found that simply using the 3 piece torque wrench as a breaker bar works even better. i just set it to 600ftlbs to break the centerlock free and its longer than the breaker bar anyways giving more leverage. one less tool to lug around and it actually fits in the car plus has a nice case.
09-17-2010, 04:05 PM
#58
Rennlist Member
i bought that 40" long 3/4" breaker bar from tooltopia. it does the job fine. however i found that simply using the 3 piece torque wrench as a breaker bar works even better. i just set it to 600ftlbs to break the centerlock free and its longer than the breaker bar anyways giving more leverage. one less tool to lug around and it actually fits in the car plus has a nice case.
09-17-2010, 04:21 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
