carrering

yep, no need to carry both breaker and torque wrench while on the road. the tooltopia torque wrench is more than enough. i like the collapsible breaker from porsche, but already have the torque wrench and cheapy breaker bar for home.

FLM911

Just checked the calendar, thought it must be April 1st.

It isnt.

This is getting out of hand. I was getting used to the CL and its not that bad but this new stuff really is over the top, especially compared to the "old" ways.

savyboy

My esteemed collegue Fred is a very nice gentleman and a very fast fellow on track in "real life", so I hate to offer a different viewpoint, however in the new bulletin, it explicitly advises to have the wheel being torqued off the ground.

There is the illustration with the X with wheel on ground in the bulletin. Must be a reason they specified this. Would it be great if a Porsche rep gave a better explanation for our understanding? Yes, yes it would. Many of us are working on our own cars and deserve to fully understand the issue at hand (for our safety).

Step up Porsche...

That is how I was doing mine as well, pretorque as much as possible, finish with wheel on ground and chocked. But that seemingly interferes with a proper procedure. Now I will have to have a second person apply brake while I torque and have wheel in the air.

TRAKCAR

Same here, easy with the hand brake on the rears.
With the ftonts, the best I can do with my gnome on strike is just to "hit" the fronts to get as much torque on them as possible before dropping the car. It is nowhere near 500nm, let alone 600nm but it feels like the wheel is fully snug on the hub.

If fully snug, could it still affect the nm reading once the car is dropped?

911rox

Theoretically yes Peter, in reality- who knows...

On the basis that a typical GT3 weighs 1400kg (60:40 weight distribution) each of the rear wheels is exerting a theoretical vertical force of 4100 Nm and based on 2 degrees of camber, an outward force of approx 150Nm on the hubs... Both of these forces are trying to unseat the wheel from the hub... If the wheels aren't sufficiently tight when the car is dropped and these forces are applied, the locking force may not be achieved as the wheel and hub surfaces could possibly be forced apart...

Figures for the fronts based on 2 degrees camber, 2750Nm vertical and 100Nm outward... Increase camber, increase outward force....

911SLOW

The first two pages are from the RSR manual
The two other pictures are from the 2010 hub and C/L.

You can notice the differences and similarities in design of the C/Ls but interestingly the angular contact bearing is same part number for both the RSR and the street car.

The greasing procedure exists on the RSR manual but there is no guideline for proper place to torque apart from the 550+nm.

Also check how simple your life will be with CarreraGTs excellent suggestion for break tool if you don’t have someone there to help, and a good set of air jacks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXzZc...eature=related


John

DavidNR

Although this is not the best thing to read it is extremely important. My experience last weekend confirms the added torque. I noticed a slight noise like a wheel bearing. The Forgelines were loosening with 500nm based on my torque wrench. There was the beginnings of evidence of galling between the wheel and hub. So I added 10% thinking my torque wrench calibration was off and the problem did not reoccur. Glad to see I have not exceeded any specifications.

Another tidbit to pass along. I have stopped replacing the center caps on the track. There was moisture behind mine from washing with them off. The heat caused one to pop off in the garage. Steam was coming from inside the cap. I know it's going to require more cleaning and maintenance.

Great post! All I can add is check, verify and double check. Safety first!

jbxea1

I have noticed several times when the car comes back from service at the dealer that the locking pin is not fully engaged in the central bolt. I use the end of my 1/2" breaker bar as a "square" tool to work the pin loose and allow it to fully engage.

_________________
2010 Black GT3
2008 Silverstone M5

Carrera GT

It seems important to avoid getting high pressure water "aimed" at the dust cap. Any fluid behind the cap will evaporate at brake operating temperatures. When the assembly cools, this "wet" gas will be drawn into the axle (assuming it's still a hollow design) and from their into the transaxle. Not great.

Joe S.

Porsche's will have to come with this option. I wonder if you can retrofit?

bperry

So do you have to re-Grease every time you take a wheel off? I don't know what the Porsche lube looks like yet but if it's like permatex anti-seize it's going to be a major PITA when it gets all over those red wheels!

Carrera GT

The instructions read with the condition "before a vehicle is driven on the track" so this work is specific to the transition from street driving to track driving. I would read between the lines and assume that the expectation is to ensure the centerlocks meet the requirements of the service bulletin each time the car is expected to be on the track (but that only means to inspect, not to laboriously reapply grease when the various parts are clearly already brought up to this new maintenance and service standard.)

I think it all boils down to: use the higher torque spec; expect Porsche to renege on warranty if a GT3 or RS has problems with centerlocks/bearings/wheel carriers/ etc. Situation normal.

savyboy

If you have not experienced anti-sieze personally you are missing a special moment. Yup, super gooey, sticky, clingy, silvery joy.

My dealer tech did the inspect, grease and retorque for me. I made fun of him mercilessly as he first removed the centerlocks (hey man! going to tell the wife "not tonight honey, I had to torque Pete's centerlocks- worn out and a busted gut!"?) then when he grabbed a tiny bristle brush and began to apply the grease as precisly as possible. I suggested he don a beret hat, and perhaps apply the grease first to a small painters palette so as to mimic a great (mechanical) artist.

He was not amused...

Seriously he is going to look into what we need to order to convert this dang thing back to a five lug.

9972RS

if you can get this done, then there'll be more wheel choices for the track and cheaper too

Bob Rouleau

Not sure if this was posted but the screws that hold the rotor in place need to be tightened each time a wheel is removed.
They tend to back out and you end up torquing the wheel against the screw heads! These centerlock wheels suck IMHO.