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Do the brake pedal depressors work for changing wheels?

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Old 10-09-2010, 11:51 PM
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johnr265
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Default Do the brake pedal depressors work for changing wheels?

I know it has been mentioned a la

http://www.etoolcart.com/brakepedald...rlis21520.aspx

so you can change your wheels without the 'missus'. Can anyone confirm which of these gadgets actually works to do the job? Thanks.
Old 10-10-2010, 01:03 PM
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rmag
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Yep! Bought one a few weeks ago. Works great.
Old 10-10-2010, 02:00 PM
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In a pinch (cheap pun) you can use a woodworking clamp that reverses to work as a spreader.
eg.
http://www.irwin.com/tools/clamps/xp...amps-spreaders
Old 10-10-2010, 02:39 PM
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KBS911
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Yes, it works great. The best thing is that I don't have to ask the wife to help.
Old 10-10-2010, 05:21 PM
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obsessedone
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Easier, cheaper way is to break each nut/lug slightly loose before jacking. Tighten lugs snug before lowering and torque when lowered back to ground. Use the wife for more important things.
Old 10-10-2010, 06:55 PM
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johnr265
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FYI, even cheaper at tooltopia:

https://www.tooltopia.com/cart.aspx
Old 10-10-2010, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by obsessedone
Easier, cheaper way is to break each nut/lug slightly loose before jacking. Tighten lugs snug before lowering and torque when lowered back to ground. Use the wife for more important things.
That's certainly easier, but it's not the required method.

I was "experimenting" with this new centerlock design over the last week (a wheel swap and then a pad swap.) The root of the problem seems to be the poor "match" between the conic surface of the nut and that of the wheel -- the angle of the cone seems to be too flat or obtuse, allowing the wheel and nut to remain off center or skewed. Surprising. And an interesting experiment is to take some of the torque off the nut (say a quarter of a turn) and then put weight on the wheel, just a few pounds, not the weight of the car ... the wheel will move and the tension on the nut will increase. This design leaves something to be desired in terms of street applications durability. I can also see the anodizing of the five studs has been worn by the wheel -- not during installation or removal, but through relative movement. Again, hardly a desirable condition after 1500 miles.
Old 10-11-2010, 12:03 AM
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rmag
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Originally Posted by obsessedone
Easier, cheaper way is to break each nut/lug slightly loose before jacking.
Even with car on the ground, can't break the fronts loose half the time without the wheel spinning unless the brake is depressed.
Old 10-11-2010, 06:39 AM
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KBS911
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Originally Posted by rmag
Even with car on the ground, can't break the fronts loose half the time without the wheel spinning unless the brake is depressed.
Yep, that is a fact.
Old 10-11-2010, 08:34 AM
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WalkerInTN
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A 2x4 cut to length will also work. Put the cut 2x4 in between the brake pedal & the seat bottom, while powering the seat forward.
Old 10-11-2010, 12:06 PM
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TRAKCAR
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Yep! Bought one a few weeks ago. Works great
Ryan, how does it work?
If you put it against the seat doesn't the steering wheel turn when doing the fronts?
If you put it against the wheel, does it keep the wheel straight when torquing the fronts?
Is it OK to put that much pressure against the bottom of the steering wheel?
Old 10-11-2010, 12:34 PM
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Against the steering wheel is "normal" because most seats have a cushion which won't help.
In some cars, with a removable cushion, the seat frame is easy.
The front wheels don't turn much when being torqued or released.
I don't know if the steering wheel is designed to break (some wheel designs are meant to release the rim on impact with your throat or the bridge of your nose.) I'd rather note experiment since the seat works well.
This clamp is ample to release and re-install the wheel nut at 600nm.
I use the Porsche break bar to release the nut. Pushing "down" instead of lifting "up" would help with preventing the wheel from turning on the ground, but using the brake depressor is the prescribed method.
I use an Armstrong torque multiplier and a conventional half inch torque wrench to apply the 600nm at a 5:1 gearing, meaning a very easy 120nm at the wrench.
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:30 PM
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rmag
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Ryan, how does it work?
If you put it against the seat doesn't the steering wheel turn when doing the fronts?
If you put it against the wheel, does it keep the wheel straight when torquing the fronts?
Is it OK to put that much pressure against the bottom of the steering wheel?
Not much to it. Press brake pedal with foot, place end of bar on brake pedal, pull out until tight against steering wheel. I take key out of ignition so steering lock keeps wheel straight.

I got it here for $23. Guys, you have a $100k plus car, why fiddle around with 2x4s or clamps to save $20.
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...ookup=LIS21520
Old 10-11-2010, 01:46 PM
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TRAKCAR
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Thanks guys!

Ordering it now, much appreciated.
My gnome is not much help and better not bother the wife with more "stupid car stuff"
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rmag
Not much to it. Press brake pedal with foot, place end of bar on brake pedal, pull out until tight against steering wheel. I take key out of ignition so steering lock keeps wheel straight.

I got it here for $23. Guys, you have a $100k plus car, why fiddle around with 2x4s or clamps to save $20.
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...ookup=LIS21520
Somebody suggested a 2x4?

Anyway, the clamp is exactly the same device and design -- it also works really well. I used it to illustrate the alternative for anyone wanting to drive over to Home Depot and have a solution with no further ado. And no compromise other than it looking a bit "shade tree mechanic."

Also, the clamp doesn't save a dime -- it's more expensive than the pedal depressor. : )


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