Is a 7.2 worth 20K more than a 7.1 ?
#61
Rennlist Member
Well in the 6GT3 they did "play" with the heights a bit. Specifically the front height. RoW and US cars came at 115mm for the GT3Mk2. Many members here, measured their cars and found them to be raised in the front. But that was probably a non scripta guideline, as the workshop manual's numbers are indeed the same.
This created a lot of confusion, with US owners wanting to do a RoW alignment.
I think that this pattern completely ended with the 7 GT3.
This created a lot of confusion, with US owners wanting to do a RoW alignment.
I think that this pattern completely ended with the 7 GT3.
Only fiddling I suspect with the 7s is PASM programming, as the press car I drove (very early car, before all customer deliveries to my knowledge) had different (slightly? noticeably? depends on how you look at it) ride characteristics than later customer cars I drove, as well as the 997 GT3 a coworker bought on the basis of that press car. He swore Porsche must have changed the programming, a contention I found interesting given Leffingwell's discovery that PAG was still fiddling with the PASM programming for the Carrera S as it went into production...
As with your ride height thing, there is always more to the story.
Pete the spring rate numbers I posted, and up to the 996 GT3, are 100% solid. My discipline for verification is quite good, especially for information that is not copied and pasted directly from the PIWIS.
The source for the 7 GT3 spring rates is again from Porsche, but to be honest, I haven't cross referenced it, as nobody else seems to know. So, next time you are near AP (or someone from the tech Dpt), and his head is clear, shoot him a question.
The source for the 7 GT3 spring rates is again from Porsche, but to be honest, I haven't cross referenced it, as nobody else seems to know. So, next time you are near AP (or someone from the tech Dpt), and his head is clear, shoot him a question.
Right back atcha
#62
Stock vs. Stock the .2 is better with revised suspension. The bouncy and wobbly nature of the .1 is solved and the ride is much more compliant. So unless you decide to make it a dedicated track car, or trailer the .2 is the better choice.
BTW Wevo mounts solve your problems for about $600 (including labor). Don't make so much fuss over it... Plain and simple
BTW Wevo mounts solve your problems for about $600 (including labor). Don't make so much fuss over it... Plain and simple
#63
Rennlist Member
There is a big difference between a solid mount and a magnetic. PDEM does not have just 2 settings, hard and soft, rather a whole range of adjustment. Go over a hard bump even in sport mode and this becomes very noticeable. The computer uses sensor inputs (wheel sensors, accelerometers and gyros) to actively adjust the engine mounts in real time just like a magnetic shock to help control weight transfer. Granted someone less skilled who isn't able to drive over or at the limits won't notice it as much, but it is still noticeable...especially on a bumpy track. A solid mount has no ability to help control weight transfer, rather just ties the drivetrain close to the movements of the chassis.
I'd have to say I would probably pass on a .2 without PDEM, although it is rumored that it can be retrofitted ...
#64
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Probably not a better driver to exploit the advantages over a 7.1 LOL
Really like both cars to be honest...
Aqua Blue has CPO thru 8/15 and new rear tires and no RMS weeping.
Guards Red ,I have to buy a warranty, has RMS weeping, and black wheels that were changed from new.
Deprciation wise, in a year, I will owe $84K on the 10 and $69K on the 07. A difference of about $300 in payment .
Sorry to bore you guys with the details...I can't just stoke a check for these cars.
Really like both cars to be honest...
Aqua Blue has CPO thru 8/15 and new rear tires and no RMS weeping.
Guards Red ,I have to buy a warranty, has RMS weeping, and black wheels that were changed from new.
Deprciation wise, in a year, I will owe $84K on the 10 and $69K on the 07. A difference of about $300 in payment .
Sorry to bore you guys with the details...I can't just stoke a check for these cars.
By the newer one and never look back - better on every front and the $20k will be better recovered on the newer car with warranty if your circumstances changed and you "had" to sell. Better car, more downside protection - all smiles!
Good luck with your decision.
#65
Maybe I am alone, but I think in six months or after people see the 991 out, the market may be different. I know the GT3 991 will not be available for a long time after that, but I assume the 20k you are referring to now will inevitably diminish. I am on the same boat as you are, and I am willing to wait six months and see how it goes.
#66
Rennlist Member
There is a big difference between a solid mount and a magnetic. PDEM does not have just 2 settings, hard and soft, rather a whole range of adjustment. Go over a hard bump even in sport mode and this becomes very noticeable. The computer uses sensor inputs (wheel sensors, accelerometers and gyros) to actively adjust the engine mounts in real time just like a magnetic shock to help control weight transfer. Granted someone less skilled who isn't able to drive over or at the limits won't notice it as much, but it is still noticeable...especially on a bumpy track. A solid mount has no ability to help control weight transfer, rather just ties the drivetrain close to the movements of the chassis.
I've driven many times on the track with the Wevo mounts, no problems so far. Seem to work like a charm
#67
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Here is how I see it:
$20k difference
subtract $8k for milage difference(17k vs. 6k)
subtract $3k for warranty
subtract $9k for newer looks/having the latest
and you get the increased performance for free!
$20k difference
subtract $8k for milage difference(17k vs. 6k)
subtract $3k for warranty
subtract $9k for newer looks/having the latest
and you get the increased performance for free!
#69
Rennlist Member
The price delta of $20 k is worth it just for the motor upgrade. Cost to increase displacement is past 20k buy in with warranty and for those into resale value- try selling an aftermarket engine upgrade- it's not easy. I take 7.2 over 7.1 anyday. Mike
#70
Rennlist Member
FWIW, the consensus among the Porsche tuners I contacted prior to purchasing was that PDEM was not a "must-have" option on a .2 car. All suggested semi-solid mounts as an excellent and and cost effective alternative to retrofitting on a non PDEM car. YMMV.
As far as the original topic, I sweat the same question for months. I ended up with a .2 and could not be happier.
As far as the original topic, I sweat the same question for months. I ended up with a .2 and could not be happier.
#71
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sin911- I felt like for track use with a hoosier r6 or something both were too softly sprung for me. The .1RS would get tire scrub on the fender liners at Infineon and other high-G loaded tracks.
the major difference in handling out of the box was the balance of the car in regards to turning in. with street tires on the street I found no problem with either.
my biggest complaint was how much I had to mod the .1RS to make it suit my needs on the track (I drive too much open wheel machinery) and a lot of it came from the sloppy stock engine mounts. surely with either the wevos on the .1 or the PDEM on the .2 it's a lot better but I'd still rather drive a fully set up car with motons or some bad-*** shocks and springs to make use of the mechanical grip the car can generate. If you have a limited budget you can surely spend a lot more on the .1 and get it past a stock .2 in terms of handling or weight loss etc. But if you want to drive both street and track you can't really go all out and ditch everything for cup car level pieces...you'll lose your teeth.
the main problem is with all these cars you get to a point of no return- we've all fantasized about trailering a gt3 to tracks all over- in 2008 I did it- was totally awesome... put about 12k miles on my F250 in the process. In 2009 I started racing open wheel and don't really sign up for track days any more, just races and testing for my Mazda team.
the major difference in handling out of the box was the balance of the car in regards to turning in. with street tires on the street I found no problem with either.
my biggest complaint was how much I had to mod the .1RS to make it suit my needs on the track (I drive too much open wheel machinery) and a lot of it came from the sloppy stock engine mounts. surely with either the wevos on the .1 or the PDEM on the .2 it's a lot better but I'd still rather drive a fully set up car with motons or some bad-*** shocks and springs to make use of the mechanical grip the car can generate. If you have a limited budget you can surely spend a lot more on the .1 and get it past a stock .2 in terms of handling or weight loss etc. But if you want to drive both street and track you can't really go all out and ditch everything for cup car level pieces...you'll lose your teeth.
the main problem is with all these cars you get to a point of no return- we've all fantasized about trailering a gt3 to tracks all over- in 2008 I did it- was totally awesome... put about 12k miles on my F250 in the process. In 2009 I started racing open wheel and don't really sign up for track days any more, just races and testing for my Mazda team.
#72
CJ... livin the dream bud...hard work pays off.
I put 35k miles on my tow car in the last 2 years and I only use it to tow my car to events... nothing like having two cars that sit most of the month to be only used for racing... my friends think Im crazy...my good friends know I AM CRAZY.
I put 35k miles on my tow car in the last 2 years and I only use it to tow my car to events... nothing like having two cars that sit most of the month to be only used for racing... my friends think Im crazy...my good friends know I AM CRAZY.
#73
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CJ... livin the dream bud...hard work pays off.
I put 35k miles on my tow car in the last 2 years and I only use it to tow my car to events... nothing like having two cars that sit most of the month to be only used for racing... my friends think Im crazy...my good friends know I AM CRAZY.
I put 35k miles on my tow car in the last 2 years and I only use it to tow my car to events... nothing like having two cars that sit most of the month to be only used for racing... my friends think Im crazy...my good friends know I AM CRAZY.
#74
For God's sake, buy it before buy it back. I agree if you don't track It the pdem are a non issue. I was thinking of the Wevo change before I sold. And it has no overrevs. I don't claim to be Mario Andretti at the track, but the powerband is so wide I think I always shifted at 8-8300 rpm's. I was used to a regular carrera s.
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