Popped my Centerlock Cherry
#31
Rennlist Member
I estimate wheels change 10 minutes, pad change maybe 30-45 minutes taking it easy, but no beers.
And you need brake puck holders otherwise they drop in the rotors and you spend more time fishingthem outthen it takes to replace pads.
I changed all caliper bolts for CUP car like studs with nuts because eventually you will strip one out in the rear, but I did all 8.
And you need brake puck holders otherwise they drop in the rotors and you spend more time fishingthem outthen it takes to replace pads.
I changed all caliper bolts for CUP car like studs with nuts because eventually you will strip one out in the rear, but I did all 8.
#32
Addict
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I estimate wheels change 10 minutes, pad change maybe 30-45 minutes taking it easy, but no beers.
And you need brake puck holders otherwise they drop in the rotors and you spend more time fishingthem outthen it takes to replace pads.
I changed all caliper bolts for CUP car like studs with nuts because eventually you will strip one out in the rear, but I did all 8.
And you need brake puck holders otherwise they drop in the rotors and you spend more time fishingthem outthen it takes to replace pads.
I changed all caliper bolts for CUP car like studs with nuts because eventually you will strip one out in the rear, but I did all 8.
45 minutes to change pads, despite of your studs/nuts modification (is there anything stock left in your Beetle?), now that's lazy. With all wheels off, I can change pads in the Fiat in 5 minutes at the back (just need a plier) and 10 minutes in the front (need 13mm wrench and a plier). No need to remove calipers ever.
#33
Rennlist Member
I never timed it but changing 4 wheels takes no longer then normal wheels.
Pads, who knows never timed it, maybe 20 minutes. I'm never sober doing so..
The rear idiot calipers bother me a hell of a lot more then the CL's... It's just 2 bolts, but still, I like the open top design of the front better.
Pads, who knows never timed it, maybe 20 minutes. I'm never sober doing so..
The rear idiot calipers bother me a hell of a lot more then the CL's... It's just 2 bolts, but still, I like the open top design of the front better.
#37
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Join Date: May 2010
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10 minutes to change front pads, using the giro disc spreader and the spring release tool from Traqjunk. Rears are about 30 minutes, including new bolts. I try to use compressed air to blow out any chips or debris in the threads and use a little dab of optimally on the first few threads of the new bolt. I then support the caliper by hand and tighten the bolt with two fingers. Then I hold my breath and tighten to the final torque!
So far, four rear pad changes and all my threads are still good. Have time certs at the ready for the inevitable.
Wish I had caliper studs......
So far, four rear pad changes and all my threads are still good. Have time certs at the ready for the inevitable.
Wish I had caliper studs......
#38
GT3 player par excellence
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I never timed it but changing 4 wheels takes no longer then normal wheels.
Pads, who knows never timed it, maybe 20 minutes. I'm never sober doing so..
The rear idiot calipers bother me a hell of a lot more then the CL's... It's just 2 bolts, but still, I like the open top design of the front better.
Pads, who knows never timed it, maybe 20 minutes. I'm never sober doing so..
The rear idiot calipers bother me a hell of a lot more then the CL's... It's just 2 bolts, but still, I like the open top design of the front better.
no way in hell CL wheel in 10 min.
Rad, go time the flying dutchman.
oh, wait. i fogot in holland, you use windpower to run clocks. very accurate... i crack myself up.
#39
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By the way, my 996 GT3 had caliper studs and nuts in the front axle, due to the "rlips: inevitable", stripped threads on the wheel carriers. Removing calipers from the soft allow wheel carriers will cause the "rlips: inevitable".
The fix is cheap and simple. Put studs, use red locktite to attach them to the hubs, and use nuts or even better the quick release the Endurance race teams use. Piece of mind for the car's lifetime.
The 2nd best friend of your GT2/GT3 is a proven race shop with an in-house machine shop.
The fix is cheap and simple. Put studs, use red locktite to attach them to the hubs, and use nuts or even better the quick release the Endurance race teams use. Piece of mind for the car's lifetime.
The 2nd best friend of your GT2/GT3 is a proven race shop with an in-house machine shop.
#40
Rennlist Member
you are not counting the time to jack the corners up. once up in the air, you will need 10 min per corner to do pads, that's if you are REALLY fast.
no way in hell CL wheel in 10 min.
Rad, go time the flying dutchman.
oh, wait. i fogot in holland, you use windpower to run clocks. very accurate... i crack myself up.
no way in hell CL wheel in 10 min.
Rad, go time the flying dutchman.
oh, wait. i fogot in holland, you use windpower to run clocks. very accurate... i crack myself up.
My brother drives by the front door of Orbit twice a day, so the most time I spend is handing brother the key and open e-mail ti see orbit invoice appear. My brother picked it up yesterday morning and dropped it off at the XPEL installer on his way to work.
Me just lazy, but if time is critical buy GT3 or CUP and let Orbit do it.
Never timed it. I should also blow out the rotor holes, but I always forget (Orbit forgets nothing). Makes a difference in brake feel, but now front have no more holes, so nog big difference I gues.
I will time it next time and call Guinness Book Of Records to witness. Or Rad, same thing.
I jack up one side of the time, just like 5 lug so it takes no longer then stuffing the truck brake between the brake pedal and the seat then it does on 5 lug to change 4 wheels.
#41
Race Director
Maybe at Winter Fest or 48hrs we can have a something like a pit stop challange between Trakcar and Rad or whoever and see what takes longer CL's or 5 Lugs?....then off to the toe truck drag race!
#42
Rennlist Member
Not going to happen unless I actually need to change wheels. Not likely, but then you can time me, the wheel changes that cut into drinking time are done fastest anyway, but usually they are done during drinking time and that takes does take longer.
The Fiat probably has his wheels off after every session, so that should be easy.
The Fiat probably has his wheels off after every session, so that should be easy.
#43
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1) switch from skinny RE11 street 245/285 tires (good for a 2:22 with my poor skills) to fat and worn out A6.
2) blow compressed air into the CCB rotors clogged holes due to use of the stock pads (my mistake).
3) switch brake pads due to the 90 minutes life of the front stock pads (my mistake as well).
4) show off what a proper design suspension is to my Beetle friends and the Mancation boys.
#44
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
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Hi amaist,
Damn! I had surrendered on this yesterday! My referenced 1 to 5 points are additional steps one must take care of when changing CL wheels. If you are skipping any of these, one is not doing it by the (Porsche) book. Doing it by the book takes longer than 5 lug, which was the point of my post.
Damn! I had surrendered on this yesterday! My referenced 1 to 5 points are additional steps one must take care of when changing CL wheels. If you are skipping any of these, one is not doing it by the (Porsche) book. Doing it by the book takes longer than 5 lug, which was the point of my post.
I know that the center caps are. At the track I don't have any use for them. Whatever rain protection they offer is pointless if I am running Hoosier R6 tires. I'll be in the wall way before any water gets inside.