pmaia

I have a problem understanding the way I should go in aligning the GT3 and I understand the results I had and I get!

In last September I made the first Alignment:

Front Left

CAMBER Before -1º20' After -1º20'

TOE Before 2.3mm (!!!) After 0.5mm

Front Right

CAMBER Before -1º10' After -1º15'

TOE Before -0.1mm After 0.6mm


Rear Left

CAMBER Before -1º15' After -1º30'

TOE Before 2.5mm After 3.1mm


Rear Right

CAMBER Before -1º30' After -1º30'

TOE Before 3.2mm After 3.0mm


The car improved... But I think it is still a bit unstable at highspeeds... And went with it in a very small circuit and notice lot of understeer!!!


I went to another alignment center (after 700Km) and values were identical.. except front right caber that had the value of -1º06'!! I think that it may be repeatability problem (machines accurancy)!

Is mechanical easy to change the camber? Do I need any kind of washers?
I will use 70% road 30% circuit. And I like to feel the car stable! What I feel, at moment, is that if I go more than 200 KM/h the steering is too sensitive... Just a very small movement and it turns..

The car has 25000 Km, no acident and no noticeable wear on any part!

Can you give me your comment and recomendation?

I live in Portugal and there are no any experts on alignment or on GT3!!!

skxf430

I used the below settings for a street/track car that I had to drive to each event. It was fairly we'll balanced and still gave me fairly even tire wear.

0 Toe front, 0.25 degrees toe-in per rear corner (0.50 total toe-in).

Front camber at -2.5 and rear camber at -2.0.

Front and rear sway bars were set in the middle holes.

If you want a slightly quicker steering you may want your front to have a little toe out (.25 total).

Also, what kind of tires are you using and what pressures?

I hope this helps.

pmaia

Thanks for the answer!!

Shouldn't the sway bar Be in the hardest position?

I Don't want quicker steering, i think... It is already too quick!!

I use the standard pressure.. Oem settings! And I have one calibrated gauge! I am sure of the values on cold tires!

The tires are Pzero road tires.. Not corsa ones!

skxf430

Make sure your front alignment is either zero or toe out, and not toe in. Keep your bars to the middle position to start with.

powdrhound

Where do you guys come up with this stuff?? Toe OUT making the car more stable?

skxf430

Good call and my bad. Lol

997gt3north

- since you are taking the car to a track / circuit, you need to MORE NEGATIVE camber at the FRONT of the car if you want to remove understeer

- yes you do need Washers -> they are called SHIMS

- if you click on the link below, you can see a picture of what they look like - you will need approximately 7mm per side (order 2x4mm, 4x2mm, 4x1mm) in order to achieve -2.3 to -2.5 front camber

http://www.tarett.com/items/991-981-...him-detail.htm


Alignment that will work for you

-2.3 front camber with ZERO toe
-1.8 rear camber with 1.5 to 2mm per side (3mm to 4mm total) toe-in


All the best

pmaia

Thanks for the help!

With this setup How will i feel steering?

What about the bars?

I have rear - hardest, front - middle

997gt3north

If you have a 2007-2008 GT3 then your bars are fine - I removed the rear bar and changed to the stiffer 2008 GT2 bar and used that on Soft for Street type tires (mich pilot super sports) and on middle for slicks (Hoosier R6s)

If you have a 2010-12 GT3 I do not know the correct sway bar settings.

The key is to run more camber in the front and then use the bars to give you the setup that matches your style (push, slight push, neutral, slightly loose, lots of talent)

With the setup that I recommend, you will love the car - everything about it - including the steering.

pmaia

Today aí spoke with a guy that prepares several GT3 that runs in Portugal!
He showed me An 997.2 with -4 degrees front camber without shims.. Is this possivel!
The owner of the Car is very HAPPY with allgnment! And HE want to a rally with Car And won ir!!

997gt3north

Is it possible? - anything is possible.

In the front, you can rotate the Struts tops - this rotation basically starts front camber at approximately -2. You can then use the eccentric to get additional camber - I was not aware you could get all the way to -4 but I think you should be able to get close to that as without rotating the struts, if you maximize the eccentric you can get -1.85 to -2.0 depending on the car - so basically there is the ability to get -2 camber just from the eccentric - thus with rotating the struts so start at nearly -2 you should likely be able to get close to -4.

-4 is a lot of front camber for a street car.

The issue if you did the above method would be the tire's subsequent placement in the wheel well. When you rotate the strut top, the car's caster falls from 8.0 to the range of 7.0 - 7.4. If you then further used the eccentric to bring the top of the wheel another -2.0 camber equivalent further inboard I'm guessing you would begin to get rubbing issue - for pure track cars you do what is required to make that a non issue - on a street car may not be desired.

So yes yo can do it, the question is do you want -4.0 front camber with the wheels moved significantly inwards and a car set up with -7 caster.

If not, a few shims in the LCA to get you above the built in limit of -2 without strut top rotation or strut top rotation and then some shims to increase the front track and bring Caster back close to 8.0 are better alternatives. If you want to run -4 camber, you will still likely be far better off increasing the front track as much as possible with shims + rotating the strut tops for additional tire room from lower caster + some eccentric when needed to move the tire into the best position from a non-rubbing perspective.

pmaia

Thanks for all your help And answers!!

I had already bought the shims you recomended!
I bought from UK store. IT didn't have all sizes you said! So I bought 2x7mm And 2x1mm to adjust any diference..

This questions came because a was talking with a friend who was doing a rally with a beautiful And very good care 997.2. He said that the Car was very difficult to drive And Bit dangeours with stock Setup. HE called the guy that made the new setup, And after small chat with him, i get a Bit confused when HE sais that for that track HE puted -4 degrees!!

Now i undestand!!

I will follow your advice!!
Shims.. And -2,5!!