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I am Hijacking an old thread to keep the info together. Over the past few months I personally updated the .1RS to a .2 body. I will post pics on page 2
These are all new OEM parts from Fletcher Jones Porsche in Fremont and Derek with Iconic911 out of Poland:
.2 GT3RS Front bumper without headlight washers
.2 LED and side markers
.2 GT3 Front ducting on the bumper and radiators
.2 RS Fender arches
.2 Mirrors
.2 GT3RS Euro bumper
.2 Heatshields
.2 Taillights
.2 GT3RS4.0 Decklid
.2 RS Wing
.2 RS Filler panel
.2 PCCB rotors and pads
GT2 Side skirts
Lots of miscellaneous hardware
- Orange clubsport rollbar yet to be installed (thanks mooty!)
Non-OEM:
- Baron Uprights
- Dundon 4.0 airbox with custom 2x2 weave
- To top it off I have Joe Rogan's old HRE P40 wheels and had them stripped and redone in orange
Original Thread:
I am posting via phone so please excuse any errors.
I have been steadily trying to reduce weight of my 08 RS. The results are that it feels a bit more lively and inspiring ripping through the back roads.
Also a big shout out to Sharkwerks for working with me in this.
Removed (OEM)
Wheel front -24,2= -48lbs
Wheel rear -30,2= -60lbs
Headers -11.6,2= -23.2lbs
Side exhaust -21.6,2 = -43.2lbs
Center exhaust -19.6lbs
Seats -50,2= -100lbs
Total -294lbs
Added:
Champion RS171 front +20,2= +40lbs
Champion RS171 rear +24.4,2= +48.8lbs
mooty what is the total weight of these wheels?
Cargraphic headers +5.6,2= +11.2lbs
Cargraphic valves cats +9,2= +18lbs
OEM .2 titanium center +12.6lbs
CGT seats with rails +20,2= +40lbs
Total added +162.6lbs
-131.4lbs saved!
PCCB also saves 42lbs over steel so with the RS171 wheels total unsprung weight saved 61.2lbs
edit:
phone app crapped out, pics coming
Last edited by FLT6SPD; 09-05-2021 at 12:55 AM.
Reason: update
Dont remove the radio or the interior - made that mistake on 2 different cars
What happen with the radio delete? PCM create problems? I want to remove because sticky *****. I thought about peeling the noise insulation from the carpet though, but thought it was diminishing returns.
Originally Posted by Spyerx
Radio? Meh, that's a 5 min job to put the shelf in, ok maybe 15... And the shelf is useful while the radio is CRAP. Interior I agree with you on.
Truth be told my RS has maybe 200 lbs taken off it, not sure I can feel it.
But my 964, it's got 200 lbs off it and holy crap can you feel it. That low HP....
On batteries, I have both, I prefer the Voltphreaks even if slightly lower capacity. I like the shut off and protection circuitry.
Thanks for the nod on the voltphreaks, I will try one out.
Pull radio
Load up PIWIS or durametric pro
Go to gateway module remove Pcm
Go to dash remove pcm
I think that is it.
Then no errors and no weird stuff on dash center display.
What happen with the radio delete? PCM create problems? I want to remove because sticky *****. I thought about peeling the noise insulation from the carpet though, but thought it was diminishing returns.
Thanks for the nod on the voltphreaks, I will try one out.
if you delete your radio i have a durametric you can code it out with. i got rid of my radio..couldnt hear **** driving around with it in
Nice, I did something similar, except I removed over 300 lbs, and still have a full interior and a stereo with a small removable subwoofer. The car weights just about 2900 lbs now and still looks pretty stock.
One thing I should warn you though, take that titanium muffler off asap or you will blow it in half in 2 seconds flat the first time you rev it flat out. I have a similar exhaust with M&M headers with active valved side muffler bypasses and I have the muffler to prove it. In fact even the steel muffler will eventually split too. And I have one of those mufflers to prove it. The backside of the muffler vibrates hard like a drum and work hardens the metal until it cracks, especially with the bypass valves are closed. Unless you can figure out a way to reinforce the TI muffler, reinforce the steel muffler and use that with headers and side bypasses. The TI muffler splits along the backside center and the crack goes straight across opening a 12-15" split all across the back. The steel mufflers split at the weld along the center backside, and some also crack open on that same side near the entry/exits. We reinforce the steel mufflers by welding additional 2'x6" plates formed along the backside on both sides of the weld, and add another 8" long 3/4" angle form cut and welded over the length of the center of the weld to bind across the weld and strengthen the area.
Nice, I did something similar, except I removed over 300 lbs, and still have a full interior and a stereo with a small removable subwoofer. The car weights just about 2900 lbs now and still looks pretty stock.
One thing I should warn you though, take that titanium muffler off asap or you will blow it in half in 2 seconds flat the first time you rev it flat out. I have a similar exhaust with M&M headers with active valved side muffler bypasses and I have the muffler to prove it. In fact even the steel muffler will eventually split too. And I have one of those mufflers to prove it. The backside of the muffler vibrates hard like a drum and work hardens the metal until it cracks, especially with the bypass valves are closed. Unless you can figure out a way to reinforce the TI muffler, reinforce the steel muffler and use that with headers and side bypasses. The TI muffler splits along the backside center and the crack goes straight across opening a 12-15" split all across the back. The steel mufflers split at the weld along the center backside, and some also crack open on that same side near the entry/exits. We reinforce the steel mufflers by welding additional 2'x6" plates formed along the backside on both sides of the weld, and add another 8" long 3/4" angle form cut and welded over the length of the center of the weld to bind across the weld and strengthen the area.
Wow, mind sharing what you took out or swapped to save 300 lbs?
I personally wouldn't do the insulation carpet shavings unless you can get a spare and you store your oem carpet.
Not as drastic on 997 aluminum hood.
Originally Posted by Steve W
Nice, I did something similar, except I removed over 300 lbs, and still have a full interior and a stereo with a small removable subwoofer. The car weights just about 2900 lbs now and still looks pretty stock.
One thing I should warn you though, take that titanium muffler off asap or you will blow it in half in 2 seconds flat the first time you rev it flat out. I have a similar exhaust with M&M headers with active valved side muffler bypasses and I have the muffler to prove it. In fact even the steel muffler will eventually split too. And I have one of those mufflers to prove it. The backside of the muffler vibrates hard like a drum and work hardens the metal until it cracks, especially with the bypass valves are closed. Unless you can figure out a way to reinforce the TI muffler, reinforce the steel muffler and use that with headers and side bypasses. The TI muffler splits along the backside center and the crack goes straight across opening a 12-15" split all across the back. The steel mufflers split at the weld along the center backside, and some also crack open on that same side near the entry/exits. We reinforce the steel mufflers by welding additional 2'x6" plates formed along the backside on both sides of the weld, and add another 8" long 3/4" angle form cut and welded over the length of the center of the weld to bind across the weld and strengthen the area.
Yes, aware of the cracking center and this setup is not final. Amazed at the 300lbs savings, please share details.
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
Wow, mind sharing what you took out or swapped to save 300 lbs?
Second
Originally Posted by bmwtye
Nice work car is coming along nicely. Just keep the pcm and replace the *****. You can get them from suncoast.
What was weight of GMG roll bar, didn't see that on the list
40lbs for the bar, not sure if it's staying. 40lbs is amazingly light for a rollbar.
09-06-2016, 11:59 PM
997.1RS to .2RS Conversion with Weight loss
