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I've switched from the NT01 245/305s to the 275/335s. Easily 1.5 seconds quicker on a 2 minute lap and actually easier to drive at the limit. I get about 12-15 HC on a smooth track before they're done..
i know i can get a 335 under my rear as I've had one back there.
but the 265 front... are you running wide fenders?
When you say done, you're cording them in 12-15 cycles? You got a LOT more power than us lowly N/A guys :-)
Both front and rears will be totally bald at 12 cycles but not quite corded. By 15 HCs grip is totally gone at that point and I toss 'em . I'm running the 275/35s on 18x10s and the 335/30s on 18x13s. Fenders are stock ( but rolled very tight) with the upper mounts flipped and -3.5 front / -2.5 rear camber. Tire wear is perfect. This set up should be relatively easy to do on a 7GT narrow body with the right offsets. As you know, there is plenty of room to push the wheel inside the body in the rear as you do not have the restrictions as you do on the GT2. In the front you have to run a offset that pushes the wheel right up against the springs with just a few mms of clearance. Tops have to be flipped and minimum shims used in the LCAs. Running a 9.5" front is easier but the 10" is worth the extra effort. My car is a 6, on a 7 you have a little more room so it's easier. Plus you can always run Cup fenders which make it super simple.
I've switched from the NT01 245/305s to the 275/335s. Easily 1.5 seconds quicker on a 2 minute lap and actually easier to drive at the limit. I get about 12-15 HC on a smooth track before they're done..
That is impressive. I only have 18x9 and 18x12 wheels though probably not enough to support the 275/335 combo even if I can stuff them in there.
That is impressive. I only have 18x9 and 18x12 wheels though probably not enough to support the 275/335 combo even if I can stuff them in there.
9.5/12.5 would be the minimum for the 275/335s. Tires would be severely pinched on 9/12s. I tried that when I was doing measurements with the tires to calculate the proper offsets for the wider wheels. You are adding over 1" of extra width per corner so you need the wider wheels. The performance increase is impressive and well worth it however.
ok thanks for the pics and description. I would need to change my setup as right now I have the cup lower inner links up front to widen the track so wider lower, strut mounts rotated, and tops pulled out to about -3 or so camber today (SOMETHING LIKE THAT).
The issue I have is the outer edge is literally a butt hair away from rubbing. The inner I went to a much smaller diameter spring (ohlins) for clearance on a 9" wheel, could probably go with a 9.5" and fit.
Like the idea of more grip :-) Need to get up under there with my chassis guy and take a look.
Shows the art of the setup. Will it fit? sure, with the right setup! :-)
Not the best pic but you can see how close I'm at w current setup
ok thanks for the pics and description. I would need to change my setup as right now I have the cup lower inner links up front to widen the track so wider lower, strut mounts rotated, and tops pulled out to about -3 or so camber today (SOMETHING LIKE THAT).
The issue I have is the outer edge is literally a butt hair away from rubbing. The inner I went to a much smaller diameter spring (ohlins) for clearance on a 9" wheel, could probably go with a 9.5" and fit.
Like the idea of more grip :-) Need to get up under there with my chassis guy and take a look.
Shows the art of the setup. Will it fit? sure, with the right setup! :-)
Not the best pic but you can see how close I'm at w current setup
It's definitely not a direct bolt on but can be done. When I ran the 9"/245 I had the upper mounts in the normal configuration and had 11mm of LCA shims per side. With the 10"/275 I flipped the upper mounts (I have JRZ uppers) which moved the shock 13mm further in and I only use a single 1mm shim per side in the LCAs. My 9" wheel was an ET47 and now I use a 10" ET38. On a 9.5", ET44 works well. I use 2.25" springs. With the 997 uprights, offsets may be slightly different but it's just a matter of looking at your existing set up and doing some careful measurements. You want about 3-4mm of clearance between the wheel/tire and the coil over.
Looking at your pics, clearances are very similar as what I'm running. Tight as hell. In a nutshell, everything needs to be pushed into the wheel well to make the wide stuff work. I suspect that if you look at the clearance between your wheel and the springs, you'll see that you have a lot of clearance with 9s. Your car looks great btw...
The first time I drove the 275/335 set up, I realized this is the way the car should have been set up from the start. The difference is staggering...
Holy crap that is WAY more front tire. Is the car just stuck to the ground with the 275/335 setup? Do you get any under/oversteer at all when you don't overdrive the car?
Holy crap that is WAY more front tire. Is the car just stuck to the ground with the 275/335 setup? Do you get any under/oversteer at all when you don't overdrive the car?
The balance does not change with the wider set up. The car is just more composed at the limit and can be pushed beyond it with more confidence. They still have a progressive breakaway at the limit but it will naturally happen at a higher speed. I would say this set approaches the grip of the more traditional 245/305 slicks at 1/2 price. At under $1100 /set its a bargain. I crush tires (I get 3 days out of NT01s) so being able to run something that gives decent performance without braking the bank is a must.
One of the interesting things with the NT01 275/335s is that they are quick right out of the box while the 245/305s were very greasy new and took 2-3 sessions to get optimum grip. Can't explain that one...
10-03-2016, 01:17 PM
