Steering rack toast?
#1
Steering rack toast?
I have a single 'knock' noise and vibration through the steering wheel when driving slowly and turning the wheel to full lock, most notably reverse parking or tight turns in my driveway. It happens both turning left or right.
This is a new 'feature' and not the same 'skipping' noise from the diff. Is my steering rack to blame? Has anyone had similar? Whats easiest way to try and figure this out before taking to the repari shop?
This is a new 'feature' and not the same 'skipping' noise from the diff. Is my steering rack to blame? Has anyone had similar? Whats easiest way to try and figure this out before taking to the repari shop?
#2
Three Wheelin'
I would look at suspension pieces before the rack (ball joints/tie rod ends/upper strut mounts). If you get it just turning the wheel, listen to it as someone moves the wheel to see if you can isolate it.
Ed
Ed
#4
Three Wheelin'
OK, that's better than the rack. You have a few points you can check (in no particular order):
1. Ball joint - but typically you here this failure over low speed bumps
2. Tie Rod end - definitely something to look at. The boot will be failed (if stock), if aftermarket it may be more difficult to diagnose, but you don't want any play in this joint
3. Sway Bar end - another possibility depending on if you are stock or not on your suspension. If coilovers, the stock end link can bind if you haven't changed it to aftermarket or somehow alleviate the binding point.
The LCA inner bushing and the fork connections could also be causing a problem as well as the strut bottom mount, but I am not sure where I would put them in the order of importance. Once other point is the upper strut mount.
Lots to check, but if you can get a stethoscope on it, or get someone to turn the wheel while you listen near the wheel well you might be able to isolate it to top-bottom/forward-back and use that to start looking.
If I were going to tackle this myself without having any more direction for the sound, I would look at:
1. Tie rod
2. End Link
3. Upper strut
4. Other suspension connections
One last thing, there is the inner tie rod end (covered by a boot) as well, there should be no movement there either.
I think that's it.
Ed
1. Ball joint - but typically you here this failure over low speed bumps
2. Tie Rod end - definitely something to look at. The boot will be failed (if stock), if aftermarket it may be more difficult to diagnose, but you don't want any play in this joint
3. Sway Bar end - another possibility depending on if you are stock or not on your suspension. If coilovers, the stock end link can bind if you haven't changed it to aftermarket or somehow alleviate the binding point.
The LCA inner bushing and the fork connections could also be causing a problem as well as the strut bottom mount, but I am not sure where I would put them in the order of importance. Once other point is the upper strut mount.
Lots to check, but if you can get a stethoscope on it, or get someone to turn the wheel while you listen near the wheel well you might be able to isolate it to top-bottom/forward-back and use that to start looking.
If I were going to tackle this myself without having any more direction for the sound, I would look at:
1. Tie rod
2. End Link
3. Upper strut
4. Other suspension connections
One last thing, there is the inner tie rod end (covered by a boot) as well, there should be no movement there either.
I think that's it.
Ed
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RLR997 (08-19-2023)
#7
Results are in, great news, suspension and steering rack are fine!
Whats worse is there is a stress fracture/crack in the frame at the front, left inside, top frame near strut tower, WTAF????
Local Porsche specialists (Autohaus Hamilton) clocked the steering wheel full lock both directions twice, heard the pop/crack, opened the hood and identified the crack near the washer bottle within 2 minutes. Said its the 3rd 996/997 they'd seen in last month with it.
Is this common? Google search suggests not... The car has been a highway queen its whole life with no track work and only has 120kms (72k miles). Thoughts?
Whats worse is there is a stress fracture/crack in the frame at the front, left inside, top frame near strut tower, WTAF????
Local Porsche specialists (Autohaus Hamilton) clocked the steering wheel full lock both directions twice, heard the pop/crack, opened the hood and identified the crack near the washer bottle within 2 minutes. Said its the 3rd 996/997 they'd seen in last month with it.
Is this common? Google search suggests not... The car has been a highway queen its whole life with no track work and only has 120kms (72k miles). Thoughts?
Last edited by RLR997; 09-08-2023 at 03:14 AM. Reason: Picture added
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cjcam930 (09-08-2023)
#10
Three Wheelin'
Other than an accident causing frame damage, the only other time I have seen something like this is on UrS6 Audi's where the steering rack attaches to the wheel well.
Definitely worrisome, especially since the shop is reporting multiple instances of this and even more so if you have been the only driver and haven't beat it up on bumpy twisties or a track.
Ed
Definitely worrisome, especially since the shop is reporting multiple instances of this and even more so if you have been the only driver and haven't beat it up on bumpy twisties or a track.
Ed
#11
Advanced
What’s the recommended fix?
Is it safe enough to remove frame, clean up the crack and weld it? Or is a brand new replacement the only acceptable fix?
Thanks for posting and especially thanks for the follow up posts with the diagnosis.
Is it safe enough to remove frame, clean up the crack and weld it? Or is a brand new replacement the only acceptable fix?
Thanks for posting and especially thanks for the follow up posts with the diagnosis.
#12
More to come when I have it.
#15
Back from body shop, initial assesment is cracked strut mount. These guys are an approved Porsche body shop and say they've never seen it in a 997 previously but have seen it in 996. Still waiting on estimate but $25-30K got suggested. Wait and see next steps.