Drilling off cylinder head advice needed.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Drilling off cylinder head advice needed.
Well I've tried using the T50 torx plus on the head bolts and all I did was either strip out bolts or break the torx. So does anyone have any experience with drilling the head bolts out?
If so are there any suggestions on type of drill bit and size? I been using a bit just for metal and it's 1/2 inch. It covers the diameter of the part of the head of the bolt that the socket goes into however I've been through two of them, took me 3 hours and it's still technically not done yet.
If so are there any suggestions on type of drill bit and size? I been using a bit just for metal and it's 1/2 inch. It covers the diameter of the part of the head of the bolt that the socket goes into however I've been through two of them, took me 3 hours and it's still technically not done yet.
#2
are you using chome sockets and/or an impact tool? If so that explains why. What brand sockets are you using? Get a good set of impact sockets & impact tool and you shouldn't have any issues removing them.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Do you have suggestion on drill bit size?
#4
Three Wheelin'
Sometimes a impact is the right tool for the job, turn the air down and let the rattle gun do the work..
Those are not soft bolt, I wouldn't try and drill them with anything less than a machinist bit or a tungsten..
If you mess up drilling it,, 1 head will cost more than the compressor, air gun and bits..
Those are not soft bolt, I wouldn't try and drill them with anything less than a machinist bit or a tungsten..
If you mess up drilling it,, 1 head will cost more than the compressor, air gun and bits..
#5
If the sockets are chrome sockets you will do nothing but break them. They aren't made for that kind of torque. Hell some can barely handle the torque of taking off bolts for lawn mower blades, even snap-on branded ones.
Even if you use a breaker bar you need to be using impact grade sockets.
Agree with PDX - You are going to need serious drill bits to drill those out. Might want to call around to some machine shops in the area and see what they would charge to drill them out for you if you take the engine to them. Doubt a cordless drill & any drill bills from the hardware store are going to get them out.
Even if you use a breaker bar you need to be using impact grade sockets.
Agree with PDX - You are going to need serious drill bits to drill those out. Might want to call around to some machine shops in the area and see what they would charge to drill them out for you if you take the engine to them. Doubt a cordless drill & any drill bills from the hardware store are going to get them out.
#6
Instructor
Well I've tried using the T50 torx plus on the head bolts and all I did was either strip out bolts or break the torx. So does anyone have any experience with drilling the head bolts out?
If so are there any suggestions on type of drill bit and size? I been using a bit just for metal and it's 1/2 inch. It covers the diameter of the part of the head of the bolt that the socket goes into however I've been through two of them, took me 3 hours and it's still technically not done yet.
If so are there any suggestions on type of drill bit and size? I been using a bit just for metal and it's 1/2 inch. It covers the diameter of the part of the head of the bolt that the socket goes into however I've been through two of them, took me 3 hours and it's still technically not done yet.
#7
Rennlist Member
Snap-On there really is a difference !
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I've got a not so fortunate update. I managed to drill the heads of the cylinder head bolts but the cylinder head is still firmly stuck to engine case. I'm not sure where to go from this point. The only thing i can think of is try and use a bolt extractor kit. Maybe it will come out easier now that there isnt the pressure from the head? I heard it pop every time i successfully drilled off one of the bolt heads but this thing is stubborn.
#9
Rennlist Member
Use a hard rubber or plastic faced mallet and give the head a few taps/raps (easy, there are some pretty thin spots) close to where the head meets the block. After years of being torqued down they can stick to the gaskets pretty well - who knows, someone may have used sealant as too . There should be a “boss” or tab where you can insert a pry bar to gain a little leverage...
#10
Could be a little late on this one, but you could use a construction type blow heater to bring the head assemble up to temp and it may free up that gunk around the now studs.
Last edited by Dtex; 10-17-2021 at 10:06 PM.