Seized 2001 boxster diagnosis
#1
Seized 2001 boxster project - looking for new engine
Hi All,
I just picked up a project car - a 2001 Boxster with about 140K miles. Manual transmission. It was sold with a "seized" engine, so i priced a replacement into my budget, but before completely yanking it i wanted to do a little diagnostic work.
1. I replaced the battery - the one in the car was a re-manufactured battery that was 2.5 years old with absolutely no info. Once i replaced the battery, i was able to see a tiny bit of movement in the crank (few degrees) but no starting.
2. Pulled coils & plugs. With engine IN gear, i threw a wheel on and it still spun freely and the crank does not move. I do not have a socket large enough for the crank, but a pair of channel grips from the side and it isn't budging. Could this be a differential issue causing it to spin freely? Think this is maybe a rookie move. Maybe i need a low profile wrench to get to the crank socket. Think i need 24mm, is that right?
With those symptoms I'm thinking the crankshaft failed. Alternatively, it would be a simultaneous tranny failure (that allows both wheels to spin together, yet somehow not connect to the crank) coupled with a starter failure.
Anything else i should do to diagnose before pulling the engine? I'm not sure i want to get into a full-blown rebuild and teardown. I'd rather purchase a complete engine and perhaps teardown the old (or part it out to recoup some costs).
I do have a borescope (but had used up my wrench time for the evening so haven't pulled photos/video of each cylinder yet).
Thanks!
I just picked up a project car - a 2001 Boxster with about 140K miles. Manual transmission. It was sold with a "seized" engine, so i priced a replacement into my budget, but before completely yanking it i wanted to do a little diagnostic work.
1. I replaced the battery - the one in the car was a re-manufactured battery that was 2.5 years old with absolutely no info. Once i replaced the battery, i was able to see a tiny bit of movement in the crank (few degrees) but no starting.
2. Pulled coils & plugs. With engine IN gear, i threw a wheel on and it still spun freely and the crank does not move. I do not have a socket large enough for the crank, but a pair of channel grips from the side and it isn't budging. Could this be a differential issue causing it to spin freely? Think this is maybe a rookie move. Maybe i need a low profile wrench to get to the crank socket. Think i need 24mm, is that right?
With those symptoms I'm thinking the crankshaft failed. Alternatively, it would be a simultaneous tranny failure (that allows both wheels to spin together, yet somehow not connect to the crank) coupled with a starter failure.
Anything else i should do to diagnose before pulling the engine? I'm not sure i want to get into a full-blown rebuild and teardown. I'd rather purchase a complete engine and perhaps teardown the old (or part it out to recoup some costs).
I do have a borescope (but had used up my wrench time for the evening so haven't pulled photos/video of each cylinder yet).
Thanks!
Last edited by MaxBottomTime; 09-19-2021 at 03:47 PM.
#2
remove the transmission from the equation. Nothing to do with the engine or the issue at hand. Plus even if there is a transmission issue the 5 speed 2.7 transmissions are cheap.
Did you check the oil yet? Drain it? You dont say if the starter clicked or not.
I would drain the oil & check it before tearing anything apart. It's easy and quick. Pull the filter, any metal? If so the just assume it's time to pull the engine
Doubt very much a crank issue and more likely an ims issue or chains...either of those mean new engine.
Hope you got it for the price of new tires
Did you check the oil yet? Drain it? You dont say if the starter clicked or not.
I would drain the oil & check it before tearing anything apart. It's easy and quick. Pull the filter, any metal? If so the just assume it's time to pull the engine
Doubt very much a crank issue and more likely an ims issue or chains...either of those mean new engine.
Hope you got it for the price of new tires
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MaxBottomTime (08-31-2021)
#3
Thanks for the response. It was fairly cheap, but i do know just buying a running, better condition car would have probably been cheaper in the end - I like fixing things and aem looking forward to a few other aspects of the car once i get it running well (never done reupholstering, nor extensive body work - i may take a crack at the paint).
I also didn't mean to suggest it was a tranny issue, just that the engine itself seemed like the more likely culprit.
Starter barely budged before i pulled plugs - would rotate a degree or two clockwise then back (with brand new, fully charged battery). Currently, it's not clicking - seems to be locked further. Giving a bit of a squeal.
Also, interestingly when I pulled the engine cover serpentine belt was off about half of the accessories (obviously loosely).
Will bore scope the heads tomorrow, throw the 24mm socket on the crank (thanks amazon prime), and drain the oil.
I also didn't mean to suggest it was a tranny issue, just that the engine itself seemed like the more likely culprit.
Starter barely budged before i pulled plugs - would rotate a degree or two clockwise then back (with brand new, fully charged battery). Currently, it's not clicking - seems to be locked further. Giving a bit of a squeal.
Also, interestingly when I pulled the engine cover serpentine belt was off about half of the accessories (obviously loosely).
Will bore scope the heads tomorrow, throw the 24mm socket on the crank (thanks amazon prime), and drain the oil.
#4
Remeber to turn the engine ONLY to the clockwise direction from the crank. Always turn it to same direction as the engine would run, never to the opposite direction.
#5
Thanks, that is what I had read. My favorite post when searching direction was someone saying that if you can't remember, just start the engine and look. Super helpful haha
#6
Going to lean toward a chain issue that cause it to go out of time & valves hit the head. Could be lucky that it's just 1 bank not both. Oil should give you an easy indication.
Sounds like someone thought they could try to fix it with the belt being off.
Could be a fun project, would start to look for a replacement engine now and then take what you can from the old, keep it for parts or try to sell parts.
Sounds like someone thought they could try to fix it with the belt being off.
Could be a fun project, would start to look for a replacement engine now and then take what you can from the old, keep it for parts or try to sell parts.
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MaxBottomTime (09-01-2021)
#7
Going to lean toward a chain issue that cause it to go out of time & valves hit the head. Could be lucky that it's just 1 bank not both. Oil should give you an easy indication.
Sounds like someone thought they could try to fix it with the belt being off.
Could be a fun project, would start to look for a replacement engine now and then take what you can from the old, keep it for parts or try to sell parts.
Sounds like someone thought they could try to fix it with the belt being off.
Could be a fun project, would start to look for a replacement engine now and then take what you can from the old, keep it for parts or try to sell parts.
On a related note, got the 24mm socket on the crank. That damn handbrake exit bracket is such a pain, but after loosening it i was able to get the socket on with a 15" breaker bar. zero movement (neutral, plugs pulled).
Haven't had time to pull plate and drain oil (12 hour work days + family time), but that's next on the agenda.
Also, i used my super cheap camera scope to hit each head. here are the videos. I just got this scope, it was cheap. I don't know why it's stretching the video (actual resolution is closer to 4:3).
Passenger:
Driver
I'm noticing the video is underexposed (built in display felt about right). The passenger head looks like it has some obstruction in the rearmost cylinder, and overall seems like it is in worse shape. Welcome any input from the experts!
Last edited by MaxBottomTime; 09-01-2021 at 09:35 PM.
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#8
shoot me a pm any time.
Hard to tell, but yea, that pass one looks bad.
Look through these videos. at least gives you some ideas on tearing it down.
I wouldnt rush buying the motor. You would be surprised how cheap you can get one shipped from somewhere. If it were me I wouldn't buy a replacement until I was absolutely sure. I would do the oil/filter check, oil pan, remove the starter (seen a seized starter not let an engine turn over) Doubtful the starter is the issue, but ya never know. Once those are all done I would drop the engine, seperate the transmission and then see if it can be turned over by hand. It doesn't take too long to tear the engine apart when you doint really care about putting it back together or timing. I would still tear the cam covers off, then heads and after that if things were bad get a replacement. At least then you will know what the issue is/was and the most likely cause. Best case you could tear it apart and then find something that makes the engine salvagable.
Of course, if not let me know might be interested in buying it. lol
Hard to tell, but yea, that pass one looks bad.
Look through these videos. at least gives you some ideas on tearing it down.
I wouldnt rush buying the motor. You would be surprised how cheap you can get one shipped from somewhere. If it were me I wouldn't buy a replacement until I was absolutely sure. I would do the oil/filter check, oil pan, remove the starter (seen a seized starter not let an engine turn over) Doubtful the starter is the issue, but ya never know. Once those are all done I would drop the engine, seperate the transmission and then see if it can be turned over by hand. It doesn't take too long to tear the engine apart when you doint really care about putting it back together or timing. I would still tear the cam covers off, then heads and after that if things were bad get a replacement. At least then you will know what the issue is/was and the most likely cause. Best case you could tear it apart and then find something that makes the engine salvagable.
Of course, if not let me know might be interested in buying it. lol
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MaxBottomTime (09-02-2021)
#9
shoot me a pm any time.
Hard to tell, but yea, that pass one looks bad.
Look through these videos. at least gives you some ideas on tearing it down.
I wouldnt rush buying the motor. You would be surprised how cheap you can get one shipped from somewhere. If it were me I wouldn't buy a replacement until I was absolutely sure. I would do the oil/filter check, oil pan, remove the starter (seen a seized starter not let an engine turn over) Doubtful the starter is the issue, but ya never know. Once those are all done I would drop the engine, seperate the transmission and then see if it can be turned over by hand. It doesn't take too long to tear the engine apart when you doint really care about putting it back together or timing. I would still tear the cam covers off, then heads and after that if things were bad get a replacement. At least then you will know what the issue is/was and the most likely cause. Best case you could tear it apart and then find something that makes the engine salvagable.
Of course, if not let me know might be interested in buying it. lol
Hard to tell, but yea, that pass one looks bad.
Look through these videos. at least gives you some ideas on tearing it down.
I wouldnt rush buying the motor. You would be surprised how cheap you can get one shipped from somewhere. If it were me I wouldn't buy a replacement until I was absolutely sure. I would do the oil/filter check, oil pan, remove the starter (seen a seized starter not let an engine turn over) Doubtful the starter is the issue, but ya never know. Once those are all done I would drop the engine, seperate the transmission and then see if it can be turned over by hand. It doesn't take too long to tear the engine apart when you doint really care about putting it back together or timing. I would still tear the cam covers off, then heads and after that if things were bad get a replacement. At least then you will know what the issue is/was and the most likely cause. Best case you could tear it apart and then find something that makes the engine salvagable.
Of course, if not let me know might be interested in buying it. lol
Pickings do seem slim for low mileage engines. I did see a 2004 Boxster S engine, but i think with my 2001 system it seems i'd need to redo some of the wiring, upgrade the computer, and replace the brake system also? Think i'm looking for something a little turnkey, but the low mileage and price (as well as bit of a power bump) were very attractive.
#10
shoot me a pm any time.
Hard to tell, but yea, that pass one looks bad.
Look through these videos. at least gives you some ideas on tearing it down.
I wouldnt rush buying the motor. You would be surprised how cheap you can get one shipped from somewhere. If it were me I wouldn't buy a replacement until I was absolutely sure. I would do the oil/filter check, oil pan, remove the starter (seen a seized starter not let an engine turn over) Doubtful the starter is the issue, but ya never know. Once those are all done I would drop the engine, seperate the transmission and then see if it can be turned over by hand. It doesn't take too long to tear the engine apart when you doint really care about putting it back together or timing. I would still tear the cam covers off, then heads and after that if things were bad get a replacement. At least then you will know what the issue is/was and the most likely cause. Best case you could tear it apart and then find something that makes the engine salvagable.
Of course, if not let me know might be interested in buying it. lol
Hard to tell, but yea, that pass one looks bad.
Look through these videos. at least gives you some ideas on tearing it down.
I wouldnt rush buying the motor. You would be surprised how cheap you can get one shipped from somewhere. If it were me I wouldn't buy a replacement until I was absolutely sure. I would do the oil/filter check, oil pan, remove the starter (seen a seized starter not let an engine turn over) Doubtful the starter is the issue, but ya never know. Once those are all done I would drop the engine, seperate the transmission and then see if it can be turned over by hand. It doesn't take too long to tear the engine apart when you doint really care about putting it back together or timing. I would still tear the cam covers off, then heads and after that if things were bad get a replacement. At least then you will know what the issue is/was and the most likely cause. Best case you could tear it apart and then find something that makes the engine salvagable.
Of course, if not let me know might be interested in buying it. lol
Saturday I can pull oil, drop the pan (and likely pull exhaust, possibly some of the transmission and rear axle bits).
The engine i was looking at is higher mileage - seems low mile are hard to find. I'm also trying to keep this somewhat under control. The chassis is 144K miles - if i get a 100K mile engine that will last me 2 decades at 3K miles/year, that's a-okay with me.
I also saw a 2004 Boxster S Engine with super low miles, but from what i was reading I'd need to upgrade the computer, redo wiring, and additionally change out the ABS system? If it were more plug and play that would be the no brainer.
#11
You will have wiring issues to deal with on an 04. If you go with an 03-04 you will want the dme & wiring harness. You need to stick to a 00-02 engine to keep it with a 7.2 DME and be plug & play so to speak.
Keep in mind....any yard/company is going to give you some kind of warranty but that warranty will require new gaskets/seals/etc and be installed by a "qualified person" some are more strict, some are less so. Just make sure to read the fine print.
Keep in mind....any yard/company is going to give you some kind of warranty but that warranty will require new gaskets/seals/etc and be installed by a "qualified person" some are more strict, some are less so. Just make sure to read the fine print.
#12
You will have wiring issues to deal with on an 04. If you go with an 03-04 you will want the dme & wiring harness. You need to stick to a 00-02 engine to keep it with a 7.2 DME and be plug & play so to speak.
Keep in mind....any yard/company is going to give you some kind of warranty but that warranty will require new gaskets/seals/etc and be installed by a "qualified person" some are more strict, some are less so. Just make sure to read the fine print.
Keep in mind....any yard/company is going to give you some kind of warranty but that warranty will require new gaskets/seals/etc and be installed by a "qualified person" some are more strict, some are less so. Just make sure to read the fine print.
I guess depending on effort to use an 04, it could be worth it given price & mileage.
#13
Small bump - still looking for a motor. The low mileage on the 3.2 is tempting - would welcome any input people have on a 2004 3.2 swap into a 2001. Harness would be included with donor - could probably get computer too (although suspect reflashing may be easier). Would i need to change the anti-lock brake system for cruise to function?
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MaxBottomTime (09-19-2021)
#15
Rennlist Member
Small bump - still looking for a motor. The low mileage on the 3.2 is tempting - would welcome any input people have on a 2004 3.2 swap into a 2001. Harness would be included with donor - could probably get computer too (although suspect reflashing may be easier). Would i need to change the anti-lock brake system for cruise to function?
I just sold my 2001 Boxster 'S' engine that I rebuilt in 2003 with all LN engineering parts for $14,000
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MaxBottomTime (09-19-2021)