Notices
Boxster & Boxster S (986) Forum 1996-2004
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

97 Boxster Flickering Lights With Cutout

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-20-2022, 09:15 PM
  #1  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default 97 Boxster Flickering Lights With Cutout

What I’m experiencing could best be called a “brown out” of the car’s electrical system when an additional current load is put onto the system. The symptoms are as follows:
-flickering lights
-stumbling engine operation when high current load is introduced such as a stalled window motor or operation of the bright lights
-Uncommanded radio power cycle
-etc

Measured data I’ve gathered:
- At rest battery voltage 12.4
- Running battery voltage 12.6

I know that the previous owner was doing something in that he instrument cluster area before I bought it.

My suspicion is that there is a loose ground and I’ve been looking for that but haven’t found one. The car has 49k mi and is an AZ car so doubt its a corrosion issue. However I haven’t looked inside the instrument cluster.

I bought a new regulator for $50 and was thinking of installing that just to try but I’m not hopeful.

Maybe it’s time to pay the Porsche Dealer to inspect it? Thanks for any thoughts on a path forward.




Old 12-21-2022, 07:44 AM
  #2  
Geza
Pro
 
Geza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 577
Received 82 Likes on 57 Posts
Default

Inside view looks just like my '97, including the airbag light! Check the ignition switch - jiggle it. The 1997 had bad switches subject to a recall, as I recall. Many folks switched them out at the time for a VW/Audi switch. I still have the original, and have learned to live with it over 25 years. In my case, when I turn the key to start the car, the switch does not spring back fully to the "on" position; I have to do it manually, and if I don't click it back to "on" properly, I have electrical issues.
Old 12-21-2022, 09:18 AM
  #3  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Geza
Inside view looks just like my '97, including the airbag light! Check the ignition switch - jiggle it. The 1997 had bad switches subject to a recall, as I recall. Many folks switched them out at the time for a VW/Audi switch. I still have the original, and have learned to live with it over 25 years. In my case, when I turn the key to start the car, the switch does not spring back fully to the "on" position; I have to do it manually, and if I don't click it back to "on" properly, I have electrical issues.
Thank you. That's a good lead. I'll give that a try and report back.
Old 12-22-2022, 09:56 AM
  #4  
tcora
Racer
 
tcora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northwest NJ
Posts: 329
Received 55 Likes on 46 Posts
Default

12.6V sounds suspiciously low to me.
Old 12-22-2022, 10:29 AM
  #5  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tcora
12.6V sounds suspiciously low to me.
Yeah. Me too. I thought that in the past when the car wasn’t in the brown out mode it was above 13 V. I’ll make more measurements and wiggle the key around as was suggested. Thanks so much.
Old 12-25-2022, 02:08 PM
  #6  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default

I wiggled the key around and that didn’t seem to have any effect. The car has 50k mi so maybe that’s not worn yet? Previous owner was a fat fingers though.

I measured the voltage at the battery and it’s now 13.6V but was a steady 12.6 when the brown out condition it occurring. I’m thinking that at this point I should go ahead and replace the regulator on the alrernator…..please talk me out of it though if you think it’s a waste of time.
Old 12-25-2022, 02:19 PM
  #7  
tcora
Racer
 
tcora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northwest NJ
Posts: 329
Received 55 Likes on 46 Posts
Default

Replace it! Have the battery load tested as well.
Old 12-25-2022, 04:18 PM
  #8  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tcora
Replace it! Have the battery load tested as well.
Good addition on the battery checkout. That’s so easy so why not.
Old 12-25-2022, 05:42 PM
  #9  
tcora
Racer
 
tcora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northwest NJ
Posts: 329
Received 55 Likes on 46 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bush Pilot
Good addition on the battery checkout. That’s so easy so why not.
exactly what I was thinking
Old 01-01-2023, 09:42 PM
  #10  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default

I got my alternator out today and attempted to replace the regulator. The two screws that appear to hold the voltage regulator to the alternator body appear to be permanently held in place with a permanent thread adhesive because I ended up twisting both screws off and leaving the threaded portion in the alternator trying to get them off. So I guess I’ll order an alternator tomorrow once I understand who pays the shipping for the core.
Old 01-02-2023, 12:44 AM
  #11  
tcora
Racer
 
tcora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northwest NJ
Posts: 329
Received 55 Likes on 46 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bush Pilot
I got my alternator out today and attempted to replace the regulator. The two screws that appear to hold the voltage regulator to the alternator body appear to be permanently held in place with a permanent thread adhesive because I ended up twisting both screws off and leaving the threaded portion in the alternator trying to get them off. So I guess I’ll order an alternator tomorrow once I understand who pays the shipping for the core.
The thread adhesive is likely 26 years (yours is a 97, I think) of a steel screw threaded into aluminum. Dissimilar metals… a bit of careful drill work might save the day. Worst case, you end up with a new alternator.
Old 01-02-2023, 01:40 PM
  #12  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tcora
The thread adhesive is likely 26 years (yours is a 97, I think) of a steel screw threaded into aluminum. Dissimilar metals… a bit of careful drill work might save the day. Worst case, you end up with a new alternator.
Thats a good point to try to remove those, at this point, steel threaded rods fused in some manner to the alternator. At this point replacing just the regulator to try to isolate my problem is too difficult. Afterall, some other component of the alternator could be causing the brown out. I’m leaning towards a new Chinesium one (not rebuilt) for $249 and my core doesn’t have to be shipped at my cost. I hate to say it but going Chinesium on this repair may be the best path forward…..but where does that path end??? LOL! FYI my wife is Asian and I love her.
Old 01-02-2023, 02:31 PM
  #13  
tcora
Racer
 
tcora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northwest NJ
Posts: 329
Received 55 Likes on 46 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bush Pilot
Thats a good point to try to remove those, at this point, steel threaded rods fused in some manner to the alternator. At this point replacing just the regulator to try to isolate my problem is too difficult. Afterall, some other component of the alternator could be causing the brown out. I’m leaning towards a new Chinesium one (not rebuilt) for $249 and my core doesn’t have to be shipped at my cost. I hate to say it but going Chinesium on this repair may be the best path forward…..but where does that path end??? LOL! FYI my wife is Asian and I love her.
I hear ya!
Old 01-04-2023, 04:11 PM
  #14  
Bush Pilot
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bush Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 418
Received 83 Likes on 71 Posts
Default

So I replaced the alternator with a rebuilt one. The voltage at the battery with the engine running is now 14.5V vs the old alternator was 13.6V (both voltages are within acceptable range) and when the brown out was happening the voltage would be 12.6. Only time will tell if the issue has been fixed. One thing I'm noticing now that wasn't happening before is that when I turn on the AC compressor the idle automatically rises by about 200 rpm and that wasn't happening before.

Last edited by Bush Pilot; 01-04-2023 at 04:12 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 01-04-2023, 11:08 PM
  #15  
tcora
Racer
 
tcora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northwest NJ
Posts: 329
Received 55 Likes on 46 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bush Pilot
So I replaced the alternator with a rebuilt one. The voltage at the battery with the engine running is now 14.5V vs the old alternator was 13.6V (both voltages are within acceptable range) and when the brown out was happening the voltage would be 12.6. Only time will tell if the issue has been fixed. One thing I'm noticing now that wasn't happening before is that when I turn on the AC compressor the idle automatically rises by about 200 rpm and that wasn't happening before.
Quick question - where are you measuring the voltage?


Quick Reply: 97 Boxster Flickering Lights With Cutout



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:02 AM.