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Ignition Switch Lock Housing Issue

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Old 03-17-2024, 09:22 PM
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Tom R.
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Default Ignition Switch Lock Housing Issue

The key will not turn. I tried turning the wheel, etc. I changed the ignition piece about 400 miles ago. When I did that I sprayed brake cleaner in the metal housing and it loosened the spring on the steering lock pin. That was temporary. I cannot get that pin to pop back. Plus, the car is stored in a neighbor's garage.

I need to replace the switch lock housing.

Is there a difference between a manual and automatic? Nothing on the eBay listings shows a different part number.

If I buy one like in the picture, and use their key and immobilizer is it plug and play? Does anyone know if their key/remote will lock my door and arm the alarm (not turn the door I know). So, if it is plug and play i need to buy a second key and fob, have it cut and programmed to their immobilizer, and get the door cylinder rekeyed.
Or
Use my immobilizer and if my cylinder is shot I or a locksmith rekeys the cylinder?

Has anyone gone down this miserable road?


Old 03-17-2024, 10:59 PM
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elgy
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Originally Posted by Tom R.
The key will not turn. I tried turning the wheel, etc. I changed the ignition piece about 400 miles ago. When I did that I sprayed brake cleaner in the metal housing and it loosened the spring on the steering lock pin. That was temporary. I cannot get that pin to pop back. Plus, the car is stored in a neighbor's garage.

I need to replace the switch lock housing.

Is there a difference between a manual and automatic? Nothing on the eBay listings shows a different part number.

If I buy one like in the picture, and use their key and immobilizer is it plug and play? Does anyone know if their key/remote will lock my door and arm the alarm (not turn the door I know). So, if it is plug and play i need to buy a second key and fob, have it cut and programmed to their immobilizer, and get the door cylinder rekeyed.
Or
Use my immobilizer and if my cylinder is shot I or a locksmith rekeys the cylinder?

Has anyone gone down this miserable road?
The key matches the barrel and the pill in the key matches to the immobiliser if I remember correctly. So if the problem is really the steering lock bolt housing, you switch your barrel into the new housing, keep your key and all is good. Before buying a new housing remove the old one and lubricate it with a light oil, that may solve your problem.
This may help you:
https://986forum.com/forums/performa...-resolved.html

Old 03-17-2024, 11:21 PM
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So in a nutshell, get one with a lock cylinder in case mine is bad, but scratch the immobilizer? I studied that thread and a few others.

The ones on eBay are $75. The car is in my neighbors garage. If I have it in pieces in my garage it's no big deal. He is letting me store it in his garage. I can't leave it apart in his garage so I have to get the old piece out, another in, and put the rest back in my garage. I don't want to take advantage of the favor.

Old 03-18-2024, 10:09 AM
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elgy
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Originally Posted by Tom R.
So in a nutshell, get one with a lock cylinder in case mine is bad, but scratch the immobilizer? I studied that thread and a few others.

The ones on eBay are $75. The car is in my neighbors garage. If I have it in pieces in my garage it's no big deal. He is letting me store it in his garage. I can't leave it apart in his garage so I have to get the old piece out, another in, and put the rest back in my garage. I don't want to take advantage of the favor.
For $75 I would suggest buy the eBay unit to do a quick switch, then you can likely lubricate the old one and sell it for the same price.
Old 03-18-2024, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by elgy
For $75 I would suggest buy the eBay unit to do a quick switch, then you can likely lubricate the old one and sell it for the same price.
Ordered the one from a 2004. Swap it in neighbors garage and hope for the best. It is a project car that I learned a few days ago has to go before I get to really enjoy it. My brother is making a deal on a manual 997.2S I cant refuse. Either the 968 tip or 986 has to go.
Old 04-02-2024, 12:01 PM
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OK guys and gals, here is the update. I ordered the used part. Slowly took the car apart. The videos and writeups are excellent. In summary:
Picked up a shorter set of torx screwdrivers from Harbor Freight for $9.
  1. Disconnect the battery and wait/
  2. Take off the heater pipe under the steering wheel
  3. Take off the airbag, marked the bolt holding the steering wheel, marked the steering wheel, took of the steering wheel
  4. Take out the hazard switch - pinch the sides after the cover is off. One video had pulling. I did that. Cost me $20 for a used hazard switch from eBay. Take off microphone cover on left.
  5. Take out the two screws. holding the cluster in. The video in French suggested putting a towel down. I did that. saved some scratches on the dash.
  6. Unclip the three in the back of the cluster, slide out the clip for the hazard.
  7. Take off the black piece that surrounds the two plastic pieces that clamp around the signals and steering column. I took them apart. That was not necessary. Just get the piece that is held in with two screws and goes around. It doesn't come off naturally. Bend and twist.
  8. Take off the piece you turn on headlight switch, little pressure with screwdriver under it.
  9. Pull vent forward by removing the two screws on the side by the door and the one by the switch.
  10. Now the fun begins. the 10 MM nut and bolt by the steering column wasn't bad. Just remember where you leave the bolt. I left mine where it fell. Then was ready to find one that fit when I saw it.
  11. I think I pulled the ignition cylinder at this point. Unplugging it was not cooperating so i let it hang.
  12. Unplug the immobilizer.
  13. Take out the screw holding the piece in. Go in through the headlight switch/vent that you removed.
  14. Jiggle the piece out, swap immobilizers, and put it back together.
  15. The heater pipe was the first thing I took off and the first thing I put back. I thought it would be easier if I could see it from the top. Still sucks being old and not as nimble as I was when I was 15, laying in the trunk of my Firebird installing a new convertible top.
My key is still tough to turn so it may be in the cylinder itself. I used the $15 piece at the end the the junkyard part came with instead of my new made in China one. What I find unusual is the old one when the part is outside the car, and the key is turned off the part pops out. With the new one there is a few second lag and then the part pops. I got the part from an 04 with 50K miles. I read somewhere that the part was improved in 04. I put a little light oil (stuff for the paper shredder) on the new part out of caution.

If it bogs again I will know it is in the cylinder. I will swap cylinders, and swap the blade with my key head, get a blade cut, and put my old blade on a smaller head. then I will carry two keys for the car.



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