Ignition Switch Lock Housing Issue
#1
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Ignition Switch Lock Housing Issue
The key will not turn. I tried turning the wheel, etc. I changed the ignition piece about 400 miles ago. When I did that I sprayed brake cleaner in the metal housing and it loosened the spring on the steering lock pin. That was temporary. I cannot get that pin to pop back. Plus, the car is stored in a neighbor's garage.
I need to replace the switch lock housing.
Is there a difference between a manual and automatic? Nothing on the eBay listings shows a different part number.
If I buy one like in the picture, and use their key and immobilizer is it plug and play? Does anyone know if their key/remote will lock my door and arm the alarm (not turn the door I know). So, if it is plug and play i need to buy a second key and fob, have it cut and programmed to their immobilizer, and get the door cylinder rekeyed.
Or
Use my immobilizer and if my cylinder is shot I or a locksmith rekeys the cylinder?
Has anyone gone down this miserable road?
I need to replace the switch lock housing.
Is there a difference between a manual and automatic? Nothing on the eBay listings shows a different part number.
If I buy one like in the picture, and use their key and immobilizer is it plug and play? Does anyone know if their key/remote will lock my door and arm the alarm (not turn the door I know). So, if it is plug and play i need to buy a second key and fob, have it cut and programmed to their immobilizer, and get the door cylinder rekeyed.
Or
Use my immobilizer and if my cylinder is shot I or a locksmith rekeys the cylinder?
Has anyone gone down this miserable road?
#2
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The key will not turn. I tried turning the wheel, etc. I changed the ignition piece about 400 miles ago. When I did that I sprayed brake cleaner in the metal housing and it loosened the spring on the steering lock pin. That was temporary. I cannot get that pin to pop back. Plus, the car is stored in a neighbor's garage.
I need to replace the switch lock housing.
Is there a difference between a manual and automatic? Nothing on the eBay listings shows a different part number.
If I buy one like in the picture, and use their key and immobilizer is it plug and play? Does anyone know if their key/remote will lock my door and arm the alarm (not turn the door I know). So, if it is plug and play i need to buy a second key and fob, have it cut and programmed to their immobilizer, and get the door cylinder rekeyed.
Or
Use my immobilizer and if my cylinder is shot I or a locksmith rekeys the cylinder?
Has anyone gone down this miserable road?
I need to replace the switch lock housing.
Is there a difference between a manual and automatic? Nothing on the eBay listings shows a different part number.
If I buy one like in the picture, and use their key and immobilizer is it plug and play? Does anyone know if their key/remote will lock my door and arm the alarm (not turn the door I know). So, if it is plug and play i need to buy a second key and fob, have it cut and programmed to their immobilizer, and get the door cylinder rekeyed.
Or
Use my immobilizer and if my cylinder is shot I or a locksmith rekeys the cylinder?
Has anyone gone down this miserable road?
This may help you:
https://986forum.com/forums/performa...-resolved.html
#3
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So in a nutshell, get one with a lock cylinder in case mine is bad, but scratch the immobilizer? I studied that thread and a few others.
The ones on eBay are $75. The car is in my neighbors garage. If I have it in pieces in my garage it's no big deal. He is letting me store it in his garage. I can't leave it apart in his garage so I have to get the old piece out, another in, and put the rest back in my garage. I don't want to take advantage of the favor.
The ones on eBay are $75. The car is in my neighbors garage. If I have it in pieces in my garage it's no big deal. He is letting me store it in his garage. I can't leave it apart in his garage so I have to get the old piece out, another in, and put the rest back in my garage. I don't want to take advantage of the favor.
#4
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So in a nutshell, get one with a lock cylinder in case mine is bad, but scratch the immobilizer? I studied that thread and a few others.
The ones on eBay are $75. The car is in my neighbors garage. If I have it in pieces in my garage it's no big deal. He is letting me store it in his garage. I can't leave it apart in his garage so I have to get the old piece out, another in, and put the rest back in my garage. I don't want to take advantage of the favor.
The ones on eBay are $75. The car is in my neighbors garage. If I have it in pieces in my garage it's no big deal. He is letting me store it in his garage. I can't leave it apart in his garage so I have to get the old piece out, another in, and put the rest back in my garage. I don't want to take advantage of the favor.
#5
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Ordered the one from a 2004. Swap it in neighbors garage and hope for the best. It is a project car that I learned a few days ago has to go before I get to really enjoy it. My brother is making a deal on a manual 997.2S I cant refuse. Either the 968 tip or 986 has to go.
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OK guys and gals, here is the update. I ordered the used part. Slowly took the car apart. The videos and writeups are excellent. In summary:
Picked up a shorter set of torx screwdrivers from Harbor Freight for $9.
If it bogs again I will know it is in the cylinder. I will swap cylinders, and swap the blade with my key head, get a blade cut, and put my old blade on a smaller head. then I will carry two keys for the car.
Picked up a shorter set of torx screwdrivers from Harbor Freight for $9.
- Disconnect the battery and wait/
- Take off the heater pipe under the steering wheel
- Take off the airbag, marked the bolt holding the steering wheel, marked the steering wheel, took of the steering wheel
- Take out the hazard switch - pinch the sides after the cover is off. One video had pulling. I did that. Cost me $20 for a used hazard switch from eBay. Take off microphone cover on left.
- Take out the two screws. holding the cluster in. The video in French suggested putting a towel down. I did that. saved some scratches on the dash.
- Unclip the three in the back of the cluster, slide out the clip for the hazard.
- Take off the black piece that surrounds the two plastic pieces that clamp around the signals and steering column. I took them apart. That was not necessary. Just get the piece that is held in with two screws and goes around. It doesn't come off naturally. Bend and twist.
- Take off the piece you turn on headlight switch, little pressure with screwdriver under it.
- Pull vent forward by removing the two screws on the side by the door and the one by the switch.
- Now the fun begins. the 10 MM nut and bolt by the steering column wasn't bad. Just remember where you leave the bolt. I left mine where it fell. Then was ready to find one that fit when I saw it.
- I think I pulled the ignition cylinder at this point. Unplugging it was not cooperating so i let it hang.
- Unplug the immobilizer.
- Take out the screw holding the piece in. Go in through the headlight switch/vent that you removed.
- Jiggle the piece out, swap immobilizers, and put it back together.
- The heater pipe was the first thing I took off and the first thing I put back. I thought it would be easier if I could see it from the top. Still sucks being old and not as nimble as I was when I was 15, laying in the trunk of my Firebird installing a new convertible top.
If it bogs again I will know it is in the cylinder. I will swap cylinders, and swap the blade with my key head, get a blade cut, and put my old blade on a smaller head. then I will carry two keys for the car.