Which to buy
#1
Which to buy
My search has three 986 finalists. An '03 with 16k miles, an '03 with 35k miles, and an '01 with 38k miles. All meet my requirements. All are a plane ride away. All things being equal ( things are never equal) should newer with fewer miles win over older with more miles? Money is not an issue with these three. All have original clutches and original IMS/RMS. All are at dealers. Two have multiple prior owners.
Thanks for any input.
Thanks for any input.
#2
Presume you know about the model differences 03 vs 01? Top is different including glass rear window for 03. Also more power though not a lot. Some interior and exterior changes. For me the condition and maintenance records would be key. These are all pretty low mileage. Have oil changes been done regularly on time? Preferably more than just once a year. Do you plan to upgrade the IMSB? If not I'd probably go with the relatively higher mileage. Presume you plan a PPI? I wouldn't buy a 986 without one from a knowledgeable shop. Best of luck.
#5
Rennlist Member
I assume they are all "S" or not, whichever is your preference since cost is of secondary importance. So I say establish whichever 2003 model is in the best overall condition & buy it.
#6
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kingston Ontario Canada
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Deal down on the price because the IMS is old. Or, cut a deal to get a LN installed. Either way your going to have to look after this problem in the future. Why not get the seller to pick up some cost .
#7
Burning Brakes
I wouldn't worry about number of owners, both mine had 2 before me and the one I sold on to its fourth owner was in even better shape than when I bought it. Condition and maintenance history is everything.
You'll not be comparing them directly? I presume they are in different locations.
Keep in mind that there are parts that wear and parts that age. I'd rather have a well maintained 60-80k car with great records and lots of recent PM than a super low mileage car without.
Being dealer's cars, will they release them to an independent for a PPI? (2-3 hours and maybe $200-400 that you pay and the results get shared and can be a basis for price negotiation) The PPI is only as good as the experience and ethics of the mechanic doing it. If he thinks he will get the maintenance business, he has a bigger incentive to do a good job.
Age and condition of tires? (~$1k or so cost)
03 improvements are desirable by most. (said as a previous '99 and '01s owner who could do without them in favor of price but not having them would have cost me the price of a new top eventually)
After I totaled my first Boxster, I did the PPI on my next one and budgeted for the ~$1k in miscellaneous replacements that made it wonderfully trouble free for the next 5 years. It needed a complete brake job too ($1k) at 42k of urban driving. And with all three of these cars, an IMS and AOS replacement too. So to bring it to tip top shape can cost $3k-4k unless the previous owner had done lots of PM. And the clutch condition will depend on the driver's skill. No way of knowing.
Both my cars were from private owners. I refused to pay the dealer's premium. I was a bargain hunter and paid several K less then the going price for each and was willing to wait. I was also in a major metro area with many to pick from. My first I bought in May, second in January with snow on the ground. Both were from sellers who I believed in their reasons for selling. (A convert is a car for times in your life and when situations change, they get sold.)
I sold my second to someone who was a professional buyer and seller of gold. He made his money reading people. Didn't even drive the car, judged by my enthusiasm, stories about the car, insistence that he take extra parts, documentation, etc that it was coming from a good home and had been much loved. He paid cash.
Loved mine, good luck.
You'll not be comparing them directly? I presume they are in different locations.
Keep in mind that there are parts that wear and parts that age. I'd rather have a well maintained 60-80k car with great records and lots of recent PM than a super low mileage car without.
Being dealer's cars, will they release them to an independent for a PPI? (2-3 hours and maybe $200-400 that you pay and the results get shared and can be a basis for price negotiation) The PPI is only as good as the experience and ethics of the mechanic doing it. If he thinks he will get the maintenance business, he has a bigger incentive to do a good job.
Age and condition of tires? (~$1k or so cost)
03 improvements are desirable by most. (said as a previous '99 and '01s owner who could do without them in favor of price but not having them would have cost me the price of a new top eventually)
After I totaled my first Boxster, I did the PPI on my next one and budgeted for the ~$1k in miscellaneous replacements that made it wonderfully trouble free for the next 5 years. It needed a complete brake job too ($1k) at 42k of urban driving. And with all three of these cars, an IMS and AOS replacement too. So to bring it to tip top shape can cost $3k-4k unless the previous owner had done lots of PM. And the clutch condition will depend on the driver's skill. No way of knowing.
Both my cars were from private owners. I refused to pay the dealer's premium. I was a bargain hunter and paid several K less then the going price for each and was willing to wait. I was also in a major metro area with many to pick from. My first I bought in May, second in January with snow on the ground. Both were from sellers who I believed in their reasons for selling. (A convert is a car for times in your life and when situations change, they get sold.)
I sold my second to someone who was a professional buyer and seller of gold. He made his money reading people. Didn't even drive the car, judged by my enthusiasm, stories about the car, insistence that he take extra parts, documentation, etc that it was coming from a good home and had been much loved. He paid cash.
Loved mine, good luck.
Trending Topics
#8
I would want to do an IMSB upgrade on any of those, so I too like the lower miles one given all 3 options have good records and a PPI. Tires are a good consideration; when I was searching, I found a few cars that were still on their original, decade old tires because the owners had not driven them enough to wear the treads out. The sidewalls were heavily laced with dry rot cracks. Definitely would not run around on them.
#9
Thanks for the input! I didn't buy any of those. I bought an Arena Red 2000 with just over 35k on the clock. I'll be owner three; first owner had it twelve years, second one two. Second owner is more **** about cars than I, and did a lot of preventative work 8k miles ago when he bought it. The car has a new clutch, LNE IMS bearing, and new RMS. He has the original IMS bearing - and it is pitted, but not missing any chunks. The full leather interior looks new, and there is no wear on the driver's seat back or seat bottom bolsters. Both trunks appear to have never been used. Rear windscreen: check. Traction control: check. Turbo twist wheels: check. This is one of those cars that I've heard of people finding. It was even under my budget, and closer to home than any others I pursued. I am so whatever it is that people are today! Just wish I knew the word. Will pick up the car this next week, just in time for my 66th birthday. I know: I don't look a day over 70.
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
Posts: 5,178
Received 355 Likes
on
210 Posts
Looks like you found a good one, congrates. But, we need pictures... lots of pictures.
I had never heard of Traction Control so I had to do some searching. Very cool option.
Traction Control... Included in "Traction Control" is the "ASR" anti slip regulator, and "ABD". If one tire slips the automatic brake differential applies the brake to
the slipping tire, hence reacting and behaving just like a limited slip differential. If BOTH tires spin, then the ASR slip regulatorkicks in and retards the ignition and cuts power so that traction is regained. Even when Traction Control is turned OFF.... ABD will still react up speeds of 45mph or 62 mph with PSM.
I had never heard of Traction Control so I had to do some searching. Very cool option.
Traction Control... Included in "Traction Control" is the "ASR" anti slip regulator, and "ABD". If one tire slips the automatic brake differential applies the brake to
the slipping tire, hence reacting and behaving just like a limited slip differential. If BOTH tires spin, then the ASR slip regulatorkicks in and retards the ignition and cuts power so that traction is regained. Even when Traction Control is turned OFF.... ABD will still react up speeds of 45mph or 62 mph with PSM.
#13
I am soooo excited about this car. Did I mention full leather and Litronic lights? Original window sticker included. Side markers changed to clear with amber bulbs. Pretty much every Boxster issue that I know about has been resolved. And an extra set of wheels and tires. Luckiest man alive.
#14
Former Vendor
I am soooo excited about this car. Did I mention full leather and Litronic lights? Original window sticker included. Side markers changed to clear with amber bulbs. Pretty much every Boxster issue that I know about has been resolved. And an extra set of wheels and tires. Luckiest man alive.