Austingtir

The timing on bank 1 is 100% bang on the money.

I had the ecu connector off to check for oil wicking up the line from the solenoids. It all looks in order but I will go back now and start checking continuity of the wiring and connectors.

bigbuzuki

Is it possible your #1 cam adjuster unit is not functioning correctly since your not seeing the #1 cam move from the zero position?

J'sWorld

I think the deviation looks good as well. Actual when running is what matters as the system will bring as close to zero as possible using the solenoids and adjusters. I would first swap the angle sensors and see if the code follows. The code indicates a faulty sensor or wiring. Pending that, a re-time. You don't need to replace the bolts and diamond washers if you are just loosening them. The bolts are the same as the head bolts and they aren't stretch bolts. The book says they can be re-used. What you have observed with the cams and plates is normal I think. I used feeler gauges in addition to the plates to lock the cams 100% square and still had a small deviation. I have my engine apart right now for some mods and maintenence and experience the same thing with the cam grooves not lining up any more, mine being on bank 1. I wasn't getting any error codes and deviation was still really tight, like 0 and 2.

Austingtir

I have seen this on tasos videos on YT on the m156 he puts a big spanner on the cam and its clearly loose when the cam phasers have failed. They are slightly different to these mechanically I think though. The m156 layout is actually vagely similar to these engines though from what I can see so far.

Austingtir

Thanks for that I thought I read in the manual it was saying you could reuse them but I wasnt sure if I was reading it correctly.

bigbuzuki

When I had a cam bank 2 issue, apart from the typical solenoid replacements and the retiming of the cams, I also mechanically swapped the intake cam phasers in order to assist with further troubleshooting if the fault reappeared.
Easy to do whilst we had access.

hopsis

The instructions are really weird. It says that if You remove the bolt fully, You need to replace the diamond washer and the bolt. If You only crack them loose and re-tighten, You do not need to replace them. I cannot figure out what is the difference, why would it be fine to use them again if they are loose but not fine if they are removed fully. I personally removed them fully and re-used them afterwards, don't tell anyone.

J'sWorld

I have run across this on multiple instances. Doesn't make sense to me either. On the ex manifold gaskets it says they can be re-used but you should replace them for good measure. Like wtf?

Austingtir

Got sidetracked with some other work while I had the intake Y pipe off to do the front coolant pipes and pressure test for boost leaks.
Found one small leak on a hose going down to the turbo on bank 1 other than that cant seem to find much but not a fan of that Y pipe. Very tempted to make one out of alloy.


So I only have a multimeter and my diagun v scan tool. I think im going to have to get some sort of oscilloscope to have a look at the signals as I cant see anything wrong with the wiring and that.

I probed pin 86 of the DME connector to the middle pin of the cam sensor on bank 1 and it seems fine and connected. Theres 5volts on one pin and the ground seems fine too. bank 2 also had 5volts and all grounded the same.

I removed both bank crank sensor connectors and the car wont even start.


My only options now appear to be look the signals with an oscilloscope (im thinking its going to be fine). Swap both inlet phasers between banks and see if the problem moves to bank 2?


And swap the sensor wiring between banks that should be telling. If it swaps to bank 2 I'll know that its likely the cam phaser.

Austingtir

LOL at this man.

So I switched the cam sensors between banks didnt want to start. Switched to both feeding off the bank 2 cam sensor didnt want to start. (perhaps it needed to be set back to normal before trying feeding off only the bank 2 sensor as it did take a much longer crank to start after I put the cam sensor wiring back to normal).


Interestingly with the wiring swapped between banks I get a sensor 1 p0343 (above upper limit) And a sensor 2 p0349 (no signal). it only ran for a couple seconds and shut down and wouldnt restart.

When I switched the wiring to both banks feeding off cam sensor 2 it wouldnt even start (but again maybe I should of wired it back to normal and started it and then tried this again).


Even more interestingly now with it wired back to normal instead of a p0341 im getting a p0344.


I will have to take it for a drive to later today and see if that changes at all.





So the fact the no signal fault moved to bank 2 with the wiring switched shows a likely cam phaser/solenoid oil blockage/leakage old oil issue?

I have not changed the oil on this since I got it a few months back without driving it much.

Why has it changed to a p0344 code from a p0341 after messing with all that... (A p0341 is implausible signal. A p0344 is open circuit/no signal)

I'll delete the codes and look at deviation values again. EDIT: they are same as the first post but still PO344 after a short drive.

Austingtir

Measured the wiring between each bank.

three pin sensor wiring:

Ground pin to engine ground = 4-5ohms
Ground pin to centre pin = 7.16 k ohms
Ground pin to opposite pin = .706 k ohms

Measures the same for both banks. Which to some extent should say the ecu is ok.


Tested wiring back to ecu connector harness to pin 86 for bank 1 resistance = 4-5ohms. No doubt would of been same for bank2.


Tested solenoid control wires 2 wires.

If you put your positive probe on the brown wire and black probe on the other one on each bank you get 6.55 K ohms. Swap the meter leeds around and you get 8.00 kohms and again same on both banks.


So im confident the wiring is fine. And more confident the ECU is likely fine but still very hard to know for sure but those resistance checks across the ECU should mean the internal components are the same and shouldnt be damaged or blown out.


I got a local autosparky to attach his autel maxsys top of the line scanner and the cam deviation values were interesting.

on his one bank 1 = --
bank 1 == 0

Same as my readings for bank 2



The dash dash out put for his scan tool made me think ecu again. My diagun V just gives two zero's for that bank. Thats why I rechecked the wiring and he said to cross check the wiring resistance and compare banks which I did above it checks out fine.

Neither of our scan tools could actually activate the cam in the tests as there is that option in both sets of software..... not sure if we arent meeting the prerequisites or something for the test. Its rather annoying I cant just do a inlet cam test on these scan tools as I think that would be telling.

The only things left now are the cam phaser or oil blockage at the solenoid or the solenoid wiring back to the ecu....


I think im at the stage now where I swap both inlet cam phasers between banks and see what happens.

bigbuzuki

Not a great idea measuring pins across the ECU, can cause issues.

How about running the engine with the solenoid connectors disconnected and connected, see what happens.

Try pulsing the solenoids manually by applying and removing voltage to them whilst the engine is running and see if the engine idle changes tune.

Austingtir

Battery and all that was disconnected. Its a resistance test I cant see it doing damage.

Disconnecting solenoid connectors was one of the first things I tried when I realized there was oil coming out the top of them. Its the same since I replaced them with brand new ones they are bloody 400+NZD EACH!!!

Nothing happens which I find weird because theres a vid on youtube where a guy removes his solenoid plugs and the idle clearly changes.



Im very leary about pulsing the solenoids with voltage because they are pulse width modulated. I did that on the original leaking solenoids and they appeared to work. Im not doing that on the new ones.

There is nothing wrong with that electrical circuit best as I can tell it has 12volts and an operating signal on the other wire for the pulse width modulation.


Can someone with a early cayenne TT or I guess a 4.5 v8 should be the same pull their solenoid plugs off and see if idle changes at all?


But yeah I will look at the solenoid wiring and control again. The idle should be changing like that youtube vid I saw but of course I cant find it now.

hopsis

I'm not entirely sure but I think that if there is a error code present for cam actuators, ecu won't even try to adjust the cams which would explain why You aren't getting any change while (un)plugging the actuator connector.

Austingtir

Ok but I delete the code and its there instantly on start up. When studying either p0341 or p0344 they both seem to be implausible or no signal codes.