4 Wheel Drive Faulty 955
#1
4 Wheel Drive Faulty 955
Hello guys, I am new here. I have owned a CAYENNE 955 2003 model, and everything was fine. While on quarantine , I did not use my car much, so my battery went dead. When I restarted the car, 4 months later there was a currently unsolvable issue. When I go faster than 110 -130 kmh a red lamp begins to flash where the reduction on/off stick is and if I continue accelerating the gearbox goes on neutral. The screen shows the message " 4 wheel drive faulty" and then PSM OFF. This happens usually but not always. If I deactivate the PSM nothing happens, however I do not like this car without the PSM and generally I am very dissatisfied with this. I went to my dealer and he sprayed something in the transfer case. This fixed the problem for a couple of days. Can someone help me plz?
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Misel982001 (07-15-2021)
#4
Simply odds, statistics. You'll find the advice you are being given here on a dozen different forums. It's solid advice. I'd spend my money based on it.
From personal experience, here in Canada whenever it gets bitterly cold, I get that message. Never in summer. Never repaired a thing. The difference? battery voltage.
From personal experience, here in Canada whenever it gets bitterly cold, I get that message. Never in summer. Never repaired a thing. The difference? battery voltage.
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Misel982001 (07-15-2021)
#5
Drifting
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Sackville, Nova Scotia
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Every Cayenne owner who doesn't do long drives/lives in a cold climate should invest in a battery charger/maintainer.
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Misel982001 (07-15-2021)
#6
Drifting
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Sackville, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,362
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Simply odds, statistics. You'll find the advice you are being given here on a dozen different forums. It's solid advice. I'd spend my money based on it.
From personal experience, here in Canada whenever it gets bitterly cold, I get that message. Never in summer. Never repaired a thing. The difference? battery voltage.
From personal experience, here in Canada whenever it gets bitterly cold, I get that message. Never in summer. Never repaired a thing. The difference? battery voltage.
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Misel982001 (07-15-2021)
#8
Ok guys, listen I have noticed some important details. 1) When I turn on the lights, the right light does not move like the left one. Their beam is not stable. They appear sometimes bright and sometimes dimmer. 2) When I turn on the lights, the RPM indicator is not stable at 1000RPM. It goes from 700RPM to 1000RPM and then again at 700. 3) When I turn on the lights, the red light indicator of low range (REDUCTION OFF) is usually flashing, like trying to be activated. If I persist , the gearbox goes on neutral.This might happen at 15mph but also at higher speeds. I have not yet found a solution and I REALLY REALLY desperately need your help. PLZ any ideas, whatever plz tell me.
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Misel982001 (07-15-2021)
#10
Hello Sir. The indicator on the right says 14 out of a maximum 16. I have no other way to measure the voltage. the battery is brand new. As I mentioned before, I had not moved my cayenne for 4 months. When I drove it in May, I immediately changed the battery. Please tell me what to do. Have you ever encountered this problem before?
Last edited by Misel982001; 07-15-2021 at 10:17 PM.
#11
The gauge on the dashboard is useless. That's never how you check. That gauge is entirely irrelevant here (and for anything, really)
All dealers and 75-90% of independent repair facilities have some type of load tester for batteries. You are going to have to have to pay.
But for what you pay- certainly so if you go to a premiumcar/Euro car facility, you could buy a "Battery tender". I'd spend your money that way. If you park a car for 4 months then there is no way you should be without one, period.
You ask if other have experienced this. Certainly in a cold climate and as the cars have reached past 10y old, I'd say over half of owners would have experienced this.
However before anyone says that exaggeratedI admit my experience and database is distorted by living in a climate that experiences extreme cold winters (-40-44*C).
All dealers and 75-90% of independent repair facilities have some type of load tester for batteries. You are going to have to have to pay.
But for what you pay- certainly so if you go to a premiumcar/Euro car facility, you could buy a "Battery tender". I'd spend your money that way. If you park a car for 4 months then there is no way you should be without one, period.
You ask if other have experienced this. Certainly in a cold climate and as the cars have reached past 10y old, I'd say over half of owners would have experienced this.
However before anyone says that exaggeratedI admit my experience and database is distorted by living in a climate that experiences extreme cold winters (-40-44*C).
#13
That was NOT the advice I gave you.
It's an extremely risky path. It only holds promise if you ask for the battery to checked. If you ask for whole car diagnosis, expect to be "taken to the cleaners". Not one in 15 dealership employees is capable of proper diagnosis in this instance, or is allowed to by delaership management.
You need a battery tender, period. You asked for advice and seem to ignore it.
It's an extremely risky path. It only holds promise if you ask for the battery to checked. If you ask for whole car diagnosis, expect to be "taken to the cleaners". Not one in 15 dealership employees is capable of proper diagnosis in this instance, or is allowed to by delaership management.
You need a battery tender, period. You asked for advice and seem to ignore it.
#14
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I suggest getting a meter to check the battery yourself. Take note of where you check voltage, if the dome lights, etc. are on or not and also check with the engine running and engine off.
I suggest checking at the jump post under the hood with the other doors closed and the interior lighting off.
A meter to plug into the accessory socket might also be useful so you can see what your voltage is like when you are having this problem. Very cheap from ebay or amazon.
A dealer will probably take a lot of your money, maybe give you as satisfactory a result as you got with the transfer case spray.
I suggest checking at the jump post under the hood with the other doors closed and the interior lighting off.
A meter to plug into the accessory socket might also be useful so you can see what your voltage is like when you are having this problem. Very cheap from ebay or amazon.
A dealer will probably take a lot of your money, maybe give you as satisfactory a result as you got with the transfer case spray.
#15
That was NOT the advice I gave you.
It's an extremely risky path. It only holds promise if you ask for the battery to checked. If you ask for whole car diagnosis, expect to be "taken to the cleaners". Not one in 15 dealership employees is capable of proper diagnosis in this instance, or is allowed to by delaership management.
You need a battery tender, period. You asked for advice and seem to ignore it.
It's an extremely risky path. It only holds promise if you ask for the battery to checked. If you ask for whole car diagnosis, expect to be "taken to the cleaners". Not one in 15 dealership employees is capable of proper diagnosis in this instance, or is allowed to by delaership management.
You need a battery tender, period. You asked for advice and seem to ignore it.
I do not ignore it. The guy who is the dealer is a good friend of mine and he has helped me in its maintenance. I will tell him exactly what you said.