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you can actually remove that whole piece from the top or the bottom, and go with the updated part. From the top you have to remove both the hpfp and the vacuum pump.
Ask the shop if they can also add a tap, they be already right there. And that would be permanent..
Thanks for the tip. This shop didn't feel they could get to the full thing without a tranny removal and ~13 hours.... I settled for $900 to repair with the same part, some epoxy, and of course new coolant, etc.
TLDR; passing 5 cars in a passing zone and "accidentally" tip past 100. These things are fun!
So, finally picked up the pig and drove it home. I'm still waiting on a load of maintenance items and running on 295/35r20 Blizzaks that came with it. New rims in the garage and took them for a test fit on 275/65r18 BFGs. Seems really tight on stock suspension. I'd prefer to trim and hack than to lift - has anybody had success with a CTTS on stock suspension with 275/65r18s?
At any rate, ran the pig up Parley's, where the wife-limiter casually kicked in while we were easily hauling past ~115 MPH or so. We'll have to check that with the radar detector working and nobody else in the car, but I suspect it can haul up that hill faster than I wish to tempt physics or LEOs with.
We had a delicious breakfast in Park City up at Harvest, then headed down the fun way. Diverted through to Jeremy Ranch Road for some potholed packed dirt road. These tires are not the right game for this, and the suspension is solid but rather stiff even in comfort/terrain mode. I'm really hoping some meat under there will soften things up (and now I am pretty sure I will not be going with BFG A/T KO2s b/c they only come in 123R and E Load / 10 ply which sounds just overly stiff and heavy for this application). I'll be looking for something softer (but still "tough), and closer to our 107 oem load rating (they don't make any that "light" that I can find). Most are 116Ts as far as I can see. Darn, nobody makes a "light duty" A107 load /T than can push 170 MPH? Probably for the best.
Next up was Emigrant Canyon. I remember blasting around Italy for a day in a 458 and the "guide" highly encouraged me to flog it hard. If we could barely get by, he was practically pushing the skinny pedal for me. That thing was so quick to get up and go, then haul back down to traffic speed - it was a riot. This is not quite that... but it is no Mazda CX-5... And on those open corners where you can see through the curve... so fun. So far the thing predictably understeers with what seems like a lot of stability left, so it seems it would be really hard to get in trouble... just lift the throttle a touch, reconnect, and continue through a turn that was otherwise too hot. I'm going to miss these road tires, but I'm going to love using this in the dirt even more. Maybe I'll keep the current wheels and fit a set of summer performance tires. Maybe a track day for the hell of it one day... (I miss ripping around a track on an old Ducati 748... That was fun!)
So I'm currently tallying up a bunch of maintenance and odds and ends parts. Who leaves off the cam position sensor caps? How does a B-Pillar A/C vent just go missing..." etc.
The current big debate is whether we "need" the 2" Eurowise lift, or can get away with basically the same tire size with stock suspension and more-aggressive fender slashing. We'll see, we'll see. Someday maybe all crazy long travel and 35s or 37s or something, but not today... not today.
My agreement with the wife is that if we use it and break it, we can upgrade it. Now that's a deal.
BTW, does anyone know where these might have come from? They appear to be OEM Porsche (right styling, and have the offset stamping next to the valve stem). Fronts say 9/60, and rears say 10/55. The fronts appear more dished than the rears, and they seem to be basically in the same plane front/rear (one doesn't stick one more than the other that I can tell)...
Anybody know what they might be worth on eBay/CL/KSL? They have a matte black finish and enough curb rash that it would be worth getting refinished before remounting.
Maybe these are off a newer generation Cayenne or Macan? If you have a guess, or happen to know, I'd appreciate you sharing the knowledge! rear 20's (10/55) front 20's (9/60) front is more dished than rear (this is front) front is more dished than rear (this is rear) rear 20's (10/55) front 20's (9/60)
Those are factory wheels on the Turbo S. Don't try to rotate your tires, you can't. They both take the same size but you need the clearance in the front to get over your calipers. My 06 Turbo S has the same wheels and a PO tried to rotate tires. Gouged the **** out of both the wheels and the front calipers.
Those are the factory Porsche Sport Techno wheels that have been painted. The staggered sizing is to clear the huge front CTTS brakes.
My 275/55/20 (on the sport techno rims) clear on stock suspension with some trimming. 275/65/18 are the same width and about 4mm bigger in OD (2mm change in radius). It will be very close in some spots but should fit. Different wheel offset will move things around a little, plus 2 tyres of the same profile in different brands may be different sizes. Most tyres measure up slightly smaller than they should according to the numbers. Mine should be 811mm tall but measure up bang on 800mm at 40psi.
Those are the factory Porsche Sport Techno wheels that have been painted. The staggered sizing is to clear the huge front CTTS brakes.
My 275/55/20 (on the sport techno rims) clear on stock suspension with some trimming. 275/65/18 are the same width and about 4mm bigger in OD (2mm change in radius). It will be very close in some spots but should fit. Different wheel offset will move things around a little, plus 2 tyres of the same profile in different brands may be different sizes. Most tyres measure up slightly smaller than they should according to the numbers. Mine should be 811mm tall but measure up bang on 800mm at 40psi.
Thanks on both counts!
I thought the OEM was 21" rims, so lurnt something new here.
I think I'll have to cut about 6" off from "fender-lip-in" and about 10" from bottom to top. About a sheet of paper cut out from the outside/bottom corner of each fender well behind the intercoolers. I have no idea what happens at full stuff - we didn't even try - this was at full droop. I may try again with this encouragement... Thanks!
Heaps of pics in my build thread showing what needs to be trimmed. Nothing crazy. I have a very slight scrub on something plastic in reverse only, about 2/3 lock at low height. Otherwise i have no scrub anywhere, even at full stuff.
Heaps of pics in my build thread showing what needs to be trimmed. Nothing crazy. I have a very slight scrub on something plastic in reverse only, about 2/3 lock at low height. Otherwise i have no scrub anywhere, even at full stuff.
I had the Sport Techno’s on my 06 CTT but wanted to go with a square set-up with a road-oriented A/T tire. And I wanted to keep the stock air suspension. I ended up with the Pirelli Scorpion ATR (265/65/18) mounted on Alpha Command 18” wheels. I get a slight rub at full lock at the normal level setting but it goes away at Terrain Level. As for the tires, they provide excellent grip and are very comfortable. They don’t have an aggressive off-roady tread pattern - which means they are nice and quiet on the road. I think they are updating the ATR tread pattern to something a little more aggressive.
I ordered Toyo AT/3 in the 375/65r18s in the 113T configuration. Drivers for me are, in priority order: road manners wet and dry, quiet, acceptable Offroad in performance and appearance (A/T minimum), ice/snow (I live in Utah and skiing is in the cards regardless of road conditions)… mileage warranty (I expect to flog the whip, and collect on this policy)…
They’ll mount up on victor equipment alpen 18x8s that clear the CTTS calipers (about 5-10 mm clearance to the barrel, about 2” between caliper and… “spokes”(?).
im bringing a knife to the install 😇, and plan to “pre-cut” or even fully remove the fender wells prior to showing up. So I can make sure I can drive home. These should not require any metal cutting.
I had the intercoolers and duct pre-cut and rocked up to the tyre shop with no fender liners. When I got home I fit, trimmed, fit, trimmed ad neauseum until everything cleared. Loved being able to cycle the air suspension up and down for this part!
Nice to hear the 18's fit. Mind sharing a couple of photos of caliper to barrel clearance? I guess they have reshaped the barrel to give more radial clearance.
The offset on those wheels means you should be good on the inside of the tyre, but the outside edge might get interesting. I guess you didn't have any clearance issues at the balljoint nut like I did either.
FCP shipment(s) arrived today. I started on the easy stuff: wipers, cabin air filters, hoot support strut, Engine air filters. I'm dumb enough to try the fluids next (differentials, transmission, oil, maybe PDCC if I'm ambitious).
Picked up 2 pairs of ramps, oil catch pan, bucket, fluid pump and some things at Harbor Freight.
I think I'm going to encourage the shop to do the brake bleed and R&R four sets of rotors/pads, etc. (parts from FC EURO: Porsche rotors and aftermarket pads from Pagid).
Also removed the fender liners in front. Hopefully that will make it driveable when the tires arrive and get mounted, and I can do any further trimming when I get home. I'm hoping that is at most the intercooler plastic "manifold?", and does not require any "hard / metal" modifications (balljoint nut, intercooler location or pipes, etc.)
Tires are waiting at the shop. TPMS on the way.
I also have a long list of random bits and parts I plan to order up from local dealer or autopartsatlanta, and try to find expensive ones on eBay or elsewhere.
Still have to sort the headlight codes, sidemarker bulbs (and missing wires!?), and the phantom MAF and underboost codes...
Diagnosed the turbo issue - diverter valves. See this thread for a quick and easy test to determine if your diverter valves are flailing.
I also did the rear and front differential fluids. Front diff stopped groaning at right-lock turns (had thought it was CV/axle - happy to see this cleared it up). Up next are: Transmission, PDCC, brakes, transfer case, engine oil, and maybe coolant again (it was just done to repair an unscheduled rapid coolant flush...). I recommend the "world mechanic" and "DIY dan" youtube channels for anyone looking for help sorting these procedures.
Also got a coat of wax on her, and cleaned out the garage so she is no longer baking in the sun, nor getting sprinkler water spots nor getting dusted daily in the delightful SLC outdoors. Not that she is a looker (man they did a sh*tty job with some of the re-painted panels - orange peel, bubbling, flaking... eeeww. shame on you), but she is still in good shape and I hope to keep her that way.
Also ordered the durametric, and plan to return the foxwell to amazon. I suspect this will pay for itself in the first: headlight code fix, engine diagnostic to sort this boost issue, brake service... (pick one). (Of course, now I'm going to need to be home to read codes b/c my laptop won't be in the car, but... with great power comes more inconvenience
Holding off on tires for now, while I sort out all these mechanicals and codes.
We'll get this poor beast back in shape soon, so we can flog her out on the trails and streets..
Cleaned out a spot in the garage. She deserves better than to be outside all the time!
this was unexpected: it turns out the durametric does NOT seem to be able to read ATF temp, while the Foxwell NT530 can. Now that I have both (and they are both within the return window), I may do a head to head feature/functionality comparison.
(has anybody already done this? Of course they have… where can I find that…???)
Durametric also would not read my headlight control modules at all, while Foxwell reports “15586 - Control Unit - wrong software version”. I’m really hoping I find a way to fix that. The headlights are functioning correctly as far as I can tell, just throwing dash codes.
for the TPMs, neither tool could find the module. I was thinking I might have a missing or dead module then thought to check the fuse. Yup, some idiot literally pulled the fuse and did not replace it. I did and now the module shows up, but has zeroes for the TOMS IDs. So now, hopefully any tire shop can get me my TPMS IDs, and either they or I will be able to learn them to the system and get that working. Yay one less thing!
diverter valves should be here Tuesday; hopefully I’ll get them in and recover some ponies. I’m sure I will also find oil, and maybe a dead cat in there. Who knows?
also excited to get auto headlights working once I get them not throwing codes. Auto headlights thread
06-26-2022, 04:42 PM
Probably for the best.
