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The little gremlins in the cylinders that jump up and down on the pistons must've gone on strike. Put some cake in the intake and they'll be back to work.
The little gremlins in the cylinders that jump up and down on the pistons must've gone on strike. Put some cake in the intake and they'll be back to work.
Thank you for that, i needed a chuckle. Cake huh? Maybe I should pour some Whiskey in the intake.
Cheers, Mike.
Looks like the smoke escaped from the main wiring harness. PM me your address and I'll send you some. I think I have a few extra bottles in my Range Rover.
Looks like the smoke escaped from the main wiring harness. PM me your address and I'll send you some. I think I have a few extra bottles in my Range Rover.
Now thats funny!!! Thank you. I just finished a full suspension on a XK8 and also have a TR6. The ignition in it failed and I have a toggle switch and a bush button spliced into the harness so I can drive it. The Rover comment is spot on with Lucas. Don't they make their refrigerators in England too? Maybe that's why many Britts drink warm beer LOL.
So I have a new CPS Sensor Easy to remove after I took off the 50lb 1/8" steel aftermarket skid plate LOL. Now I cannot for the life of me reach the connector. The wiring is snaked around the exhaust and the connector is under what I am assuming is the high pressure fuel pump. A can barely see it from the bottom and cannot at all see it or touch it from the top. Anyone got some wisdom here short of removing a portion of the exhaust to get it from below. Here are some pics of the connector, the empty location with it out and the connector in the dark distance.
Just read through the Pelican DYI and its for an S non turbo and its a 4.5L which you can get to from the top. I cannot even get my hand behind the fire wall down past my wrist and cannot touch any connections on the back side.
Mine is a 4.8L turbo. Here is a pic of engine bay and looking down against the firewall.
Thank you all for the links and read ups it was very helpful. Recieved a new CPS and went through replacing .I removed the bolt holding the 90degree plastic wire holder or protector and it created enough room for me to grab the connector. I removed the connector off the mounting bracket using the worlds longest screw driver from underneath.
Once I had the clearance I used the old CPS tying a string to the connector as I pulled to old one up. This allowed me to fish the new one down routed as the factory one was .Once I got my hands on the connector this was not hard. Not realizing that moving the 90 piece would make a world of difference getting my fingers on it.
It's out and the new one is in. Found out it was not my problem but a new one is in non the less.
Ohm tested the old vs new and neither had dead shorts to any pins. The end to middle pin both tested similar. The new was .954K and the old was .976K resistance. Go figure.
Thanks everyone for you help. Hope this tread saves others time. Here is some of the pics of the 90 degree plastic thing I moved and the bolt location.
Cheers, Mike
Here is the harness bolt and the 90degree plastic I moved for access.
I went down the fuel pump side of the fence. Fuses 13 - 14 for right side and left side. I replaced both Relays just for fun and still nothing. Did the pull one fuse thing and relay removal to see if I can isolate where the problem really lies.
In looking at fuses I noticed fuse 7 burnt. It goes to the coil packs.
I replaced it and gave the car a try. Holy S#$& it started. Then I started to miss and a huge puff of smoke burst out of the rear of the motor. Just like when the car died the first time. Shut it down and smoke was pouring out and around the number 4 ignition coil or so I thought. It migrated along the cover and was coming out in several places.
This time I was in the garage when the car dies and it still smells like burnt plastic. Here are some pics up close at the #4 pack. Ever seen this before. After checking the fuse it was burnt out again. More to come as I remove it.
12-23-2023, 05:31 PM
