resQav8r

2005 955CTT (build date 09/04) Aisin TR-60SN (09D-300-037H) when I purchased the car it worked okay in Reverse but would not move forward as trans was slipping (would move forward at low rpm on level ground). The 955 has 202K miles and trans was never serviced according to seller. The pan gasket was wet all around and I was able to drain about 5.5 liters from trans & valve body after pan was dropped. I did not drain cooler or TQ converter (it drained for 24 hours). I considered rebuilding valvebody but purchased a reman'ed unit instead. The replacement was ALMOST identical except it had some sort of 1cmx3mm oblong sensor opening near the filter inlet for which my trans did not have a sensor (see pic).
ADD'l noted difference was the Original was marked 8860 1 and the re-manufactured 8860 AH5 with the original corner tab marked A-5 and the reman'ed D-1 (see collage pic). ALSO the plugs on B2 clutch solenoid valves 1 (N88) & 2 (N89) were different on the reman'ed unit so I swapped them for the Originals .. I think their for shifting 4-6 so I doubt they are the problem. The friction/steel looks OK ??? it's my first time looking at an automatic BUT wonder if that's potentially a crack at the back of it (see pic at back of K2).

I don't know what any of this means nor if it's related to the shift/stall issue in the video I Posted.

After installing the reman’ed valve-body with swapped N88/N89 solenoids I filled the tranny with 6Liters of Toyota Type IV fluid. Started the car, shifted to reverse and it made some drivetrain noise and stalled the motor. I restarted and shifted to Neutral, let it run a while and shifted to Drive and it stalled again. Then with the car running in Park I added 2Liters (now up to 8) and I was able to shift to Drive and go between M1 + M2 only but Reverse would again stall the motor. Trans was now up to 90deg F and I added 2Liters (now up to 10L added) and I left it in Neutral till it reached 104F and turned off the car. 2L drained out … suspecting that the car needs to be running at temp (not off) … I reconnected, ran the car back up to 104F/40C added 2L back and only 1 drained out (I think in total I added about 8.5L +/- .2). I lowered the car to the ground, it again died in Reverse but was okay forward.

My thought is to rebuild the original valvebody with a transgo kit (per the DIY sticky) and see what that yields BUT hoping someone can shed some light on the problem based on my comments above.
my trans had no sensor to put in this opening so I left it open/empty >>> what's it for and could it be my problem?

On the left is the original and on right is the reman'ed unit ... what do the stampings mean and are the two compatible? It was sold as 2003-2006 valve body (perhaps a sensor was added in 2006).

is the circled line a crack or a casting mark ?? is it the K2 pump??? is it a problem?? how does the rest of it look (would be nice to get 20,000 miles out of it)

BobcatBrian

TR-60SN valve body differences

Apparently the different valve bodies are not interchangeable. I would return the reman if you can and find one that matches yours or have yours rebuilt.

resQav8r

Thanks Brian; my research shows there's 2element and 3element TQ converters on these trannys and the mid plate labled D-5 is a clue ... talking with the reman company now and will likely just rebuild the one that was inside originally. I've done more digging and found this https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...fferences.html here on the forum which validates the 2 vs 3 port / element TQ converter theory .. The reman seller has been responsive but so far they haven't mentioned the 2port/3port so I'm waiting to see. The local rebuilder wants $700 to rebuild my existing valve body if I bring it to them.

h20quality

Can I ask who you're using as your rebuilder.? I see you are in Ca.


Thanks

jeff spahn

I used Valve Body Pros in California. Excellent work.
https://www.valvebodypros.com/

jeff spahn

I have that same valve body here. Bought it "as new" from a fellow Rennlister. Was the wrong valve body for my 06 CTTS. He bought it new but then decided against and got a Revmaxx rebuild for performace mods.
Sent you a message about it. $250 plus shipping.

resQav8r

Perfect; looks just like the one that was in there so consider it done .. I'll reply to your PM to coordinate payment .. thanks a bunch.

resQav8r

I had called ValveBody Pros and the cost was around $700. Pretty sure they'd do a good job but since my problem might be more severe I was going to do the VB rebuild myself with the TransGo kit (I think I paid about $180+tax+s/h for that) ... once I have the right valvebody in my trans full of proper fluid I'll be better able to diagnose if I need to pull the transmission and rebuild it as the clutches might actually be toast given the mileage. It's all a learning experience for me.