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For me to fix the problem, I've gotten a used one from the scrappers, transferred the MCU chip over (square chip with many contact points) from my faulty board and replaced the 2 relays. Working perfectly eversince.
The issue with mine was that the hall sensor failed although it looks perfectly fine physically. I transfer the MCU over because there's the part holding the binding to your VIN. The relays are bound to go due to the many start-off cycles you've done with your car. The contact inside the relay becomes thinner and sometimes no contact at all (this can be solved temporarily with a light knock on the steering lock when you try to start the car and it gives no error but just stuck on the porsche logo on the odometer).
I also greased the steering lock mechanism. The old lithium grease had gotten really stiff, and probably led to the relays burning up...
The relays are cheap and easy to get on ebay.
Just an update, my fix of using a donor lock board has died after about 3 years. The donor board in which I have transplanted my MCU and replaced new relays has failed with some tiny burnt marks on the PCB for some reason. I suspect the humidity in my car (due to the boot lid leak) together with the recent non-usage of the car might have caused it.
Anyways, proceeded to obtain another donor lock from Ebay, did the same procedure but it failed to work. Very likely the donor lock had issues as well (some faulty components that cannot be seen with the naked eye). The lock was from a 2007 car. My previous donor was also from a 2007 car. My car is 2007. So it seems to make me think that these locks probably fails after an average of 10 years of use.
Got another donor lock from a 2012 car from ebay but I didn't use it (still unopened). Instead, I ordered an N360 emulator from China and transplanted the MCU together with the harness connector over. Works immediately. These emulators basically disables the physical locking of the steering and just returns the signal needed to deactivate or activates the immobilizer. Has a built in tiny speaker that mimic the sound of the motor locking and unlocking. I believe this to be a permanent solution for this problem plus the board is 100% new. I believe the board I ordered is an improved version 2 as it has the speaker fitted onto the board. The first version requires the motor to be removed and a speaker placed in that location. It seems to be rather well built.
What I have come to understand is that you do not need to clear the fault codes stored in order to have this fixed. My error code was "0288 - signal implausible" and I didn't clear it when it worked. Still haven't cleared it - Just waiting to plug it to a proper PIWIS when I can.
Attached are some pictures - since pictures speak a thousand words. Also I have a steering lock from a 2012 car (manufacturer date 17th November 2011 on the lock) and other loose components up for grabs if anyone is attempting this fix.
1 X Full donor Steering lock (untouched) 10 X V23086-C10010-X008 relays 1 X HEF4047BT 1 X perfectly intact hall effect sensor transparent plastic stick 1 X steering lock casing with motor and all (Motor is good with < 0.1ohm resistance)
Hi all, I have been getting queries on the emulator I've gotten. I'd like to clarify that I didn't get it from an online source. Instead, I gotten it via a local contact (friend) in China. Therefore, I really couldn't give you the distributor information.
The V1 of the emulator (pic below) was out of stock everywhere since May and the reason I came to find out was that apparently, due to the global shortage of ICs. Imagine my frustration, a non-moving car, plus it was blocking my other perfectly working cars in the driveway. I was desperate and got my friend in China to help search for something.
A friend manage to source the emulator for me locally in China. The seller didn't even ship internationally. It was shipped to my friend in China and subsequently shipped to me. I can't seem to find any information on this emulator on any websites even the China domestic ones. It's probably very new or they didn't care to market it internationally. It didn't came cheap, but still cheaper than a new steering column being a permanent fix.
If anyone is desperate to get this, drop me an email at ben@sotjor.com and I'll see if I can help you.
Last edited by Ben Tan; 07-08-2021 at 12:39 AM.
Reason: Left out the picture
Hi new around here, just came in to post that we had success locking the steering in unlocked position, and gluing the plastic position slider in an unlocked position, so that the system works without any moving parts.
It seems the relays have to function for this to work as there is some feedback back to the controller, however the motor is completely disconnected, via removing the metal connector from between the board and the motor. It's not a permanent mod, so it doesn't ruin the board. All you have to do is reinstall the metal connector. You will need a scan tool to keep resetting the ESSY (CESSY?) code while you are looking for the right position.
I also wanted to let people know that you don't need to de-solder the motor connector to take the board out of the case. It just slides out, there are blade connectors soldered onto the board, and they will slide out of the motor connector with the board. Like I said you can try this method without any permanent mods, as long as relays work I guess... (so burnt out motor or "weak" relays should be ok).
What happens after the mod: the car starts fine (obviously). When the key is removed, you will hear the relays clicking multiple times, trying to lock the steering wheel, however it does not generate a code! I was surprised, since the multiple clicking indicates that the module knows something is off, however after clicking back and forth a few times, everything is fine.
I cant remember if there is clicking when the key is inserted, I would assume there is.
If you don't get the position correctly, the car will just lockup and you will have to reset the code to try again.
I disconnected the motor (via removing the metal connector from the plastic and leaving it out), then reassembled the unit, and turned it slowly by hand towards the unlocked position while testing every few turns. Had to reset the code every time. When I found the correct position that allowed the car to start/stop repeatedly, I hot-glued the plastic position slider to the board so that it doesn't shake loose.
It might be a good idea to put a spacer into the assembly to prevent the steering from locking accidentally while driving. We ended up leaving the slider plate disconnected from the module and putting a screw through it in an unlocked position, just to be on the safe side.
I got some pics of the position, send me a message with your email, I'm not spending time figuring out how to post pics here, sorry.
Also for those who are trying to troubleshoot the relays for replacement, you can distinctly hear two different relays clicking. If you only hear one type of sound, you could have a bad relay (easy fix).
In our case it seems to have been the motor, or jammed/uneven locking mechanism causing the motor to randomly overheat, or relays to randomly fail. In any case the system was no longer reliable and we chose to bypass it this way.
Apparently the motor brushes could also go bad, causing the motor to get stuck intermittently.
And lastly make sure you don't have a wire problem, it seems common for the harness to get corroded in the driver side runner as well as around the gas/brake pedal.
It would really suck to go through all of this for a wire issue. The code will most likely be short/open circuit rather than faulty 00288.
FYI, this seems to be a similar emulator to what Ben Tan has posted. It doesn't look like the offer expedited shipping to the USA, but they do show them being available.
I had the issue on Cayenne 2008. One trick was to disconnect the battery and reconnect. the car would let you drive for some time until issue popping up again.
This really helps out move the car back to workshop for the next repair.
I've bought the emulator N360, apparently second version with integrated speaker.
it's the same as the AliExpres above, but sold here by a local supplier at same price.
It came with absolutely no other instructions than a tikTok video, but after going through the video,
it's clear the MCU needs to be moved from the existing faulty PCB to the new one, like explained above.
due to the very tiny legs of the MCU, soldering needs to be done by a professional workshop, but with the right tools it's easy. Undocumented but very useful: the white plastic tube is used to keep the lock in unlocked position after removing the motor.
worked perfectly for 2 month and could hear the small speaker mimic the sound of the motor.
then today, the dreadful "steering faulty" reappeared.
I don't have a durametric or PIWIS tool to read the codes, but to my despair sounds that there is a permanent issue.
The usual trick of battery disconnection and reconnection will not even work out here (tried 5 times)
Has anybody experienced a similar setback after installing the n360 emulator?
here documentation of what could go wrong with N360:
1st one changed, worked perfectly for 2 months
2nd one installed, worked perfectly for 2 month, then steering faulty again
supplier says all other installations have not had any issue.
It's very strange that N360 on my Cayenne would fail after 2 month. Any body else with similar issue on N360?
Also positive comments about N360 are good to share on this thread.
here documentation of what could go wrong with N360:
1st one changed, worked perfectly for 2 months
2nd one installed, worked perfectly for 2 month, then steering faulty again
supplier says all other installations have not had any issue.
It's very strange that N360 on my Cayenne would fail after 2 month. Any body else with similar issue on N360?
Also positive comments about N360 are good to share on this thread.
It is weird that yours fails every 2 months. My emulator is still working flawlessly since day one. Perhaps your power to the emulator (original harness) is giving a spike in voltage frying the board somehow? Was the MCU soldered on properly? Check for cold joints.
As far as I know, how this steering lock works is that it gets a signal from the other module (the one that says says your keys are authorised) to lock or unlock the car, then proceed to power the motor via the relays to the position. The hall sensor check that is is at the correct position and returns a signal to the other module telling it mission accomplished. When we get the error, somewhere along the process had and issue. I can’t understand as to how the other poster could glue the sensor and make it work all the time because it would either be reading a lock or unlocked status. Can’t be in a position where both scenarios are true or perhaps there’s really a sweet spot.
basically the emulator works by just receiving the instructions and return the favorable answer and doing absolutely nothing in between while putting out that mimicking sound.
It is weird that yours fails every 2 months. My emulator is still working flawlessly since day one. Perhaps your power to the emulator (original harness) is giving a spike in voltage frying the board somehow? Was the MCU soldered on properly? Check for cold joints.
As far as I know, how this steering lock works is that it gets a signal from the other module (the one that says says your keys are authorised) to lock or unlock the car, then proceed to power the motor via the relays to the position. The hall sensor check that is is at the correct position and returns a signal to the other module telling it mission accomplished. When we get the error, somewhere along the process had and issue. I can’t understand as to how the other poster could glue the sensor and make it work all the time because it would either be reading a lock or unlocked status. Can’t be in a position where both scenarios are true or perhaps there’s really a sweet spot.
basically the emulator works by just receiving the instructions and return the favorable answer and doing absolutely nothing in between while putting out that mimicking sound.
Hey Ben
Just want to say your post was really helpful, I have the exact same symptom as yours where no error on dash, but OBD is showing 0288 Steering column lock error.
I've ordered revision 1.2v of the N360 simulator, and had a shop to professionally transferred the chip across.
However, when I plug the board back to the car, same issue as before as if nothing has happened. I almost feel that the error is not with the ELV board but with the KESSY module.... if I unplug the ELV board, then I get the steering lock error on dash.
Did you encounter any of this during your installation?
I've seen a few of these threads and really don't understand much about them, but it seems like way more often than not, the vehicles that experience this issue are equipped with the KESSY enter and drive option, so I think you may be onto something.
Just want to say your post was really helpful, I have the exact same symptom as yours where no error on dash, but OBD is showing 0288 Steering column lock error.
I've ordered revision 1.2v of the N360 simulator, and had a shop to professionally transferred the chip across.
However, when I plug the board back to the car, same issue as before as if nothing has happened. I almost feel that the error is not with the ELV board but with the KESSY module.... if I unplug the ELV board, then I get the steering lock error on dash.
Did you encounter any of this during your installation?
No I haven’t. Mine definitely was the ELV..
I did transplant my chip to a donor ELV board before I used this emulator. It basically gave the same thing. Zero response and same error..
Before the car would start basically the KESSY module awaits a signal from the ELV saying it’s unlocked.
there is a possibility that the KESSY is the issue in your case but I somehow doubt it. The reason I say so is because it know that when the ELV is not connected and throws an error. So that part of the connection seems to be working.
Double check the chop transplant to the emulator board. Did they get the orientation of the chip correctly and check if every connector of the chip is soldered on the board and has continuity.
another thing to also try. Clear the error before you try with the new board.
I have to say the steering/kessy fault is probably the one that makes me the most nervous traveling far from home in the Cayenne. Some good info in this thread on how to get around it, makes me feel a bit better.
Seems like the issue is mainly related to the components that lock/unlock the column wearing out or breaking.
When you turn the car off (turn dummy key left twice) it then asks you to hold it left for 2 seconds to lock the steering. If we skip doing the locking step every time, would this preserve the frail parts? I'm pretty impatient and TBH I skip that step most of the time anyway unless I'm parked in a sketchy area. Less movement= less wear?
I did transplant my chip to a donor ELV board before I used this emulator. It basically gave the same thing. Zero response and same error..
Before the car would start basically the KESSY module awaits a signal from the ELV saying it’s unlocked.
there is a possibility that the KESSY is the issue in your case but I somehow doubt it. The reason I say so is because it know that when the ELV is not connected and throws an error. So that part of the connection seems to be working.
Double check the chop transplant to the emulator board. Did they get the orientation of the chip correctly and check if every connector of the chip is soldered on the board and has continuity.
another thing to also try. Clear the error before you try with the new board.
Hope this helps!
Thank you Ben,
I think the same in terms of trying to locate where the issue was. so far no luck as to those points raised, MCU pin position is correct and the soldering was terrific, as I had a phone shop to do it and the tech said the job was very simple comparing to what they have to go through with mobile phones lol.
What really throws me off was the fact that new ELV emulator has the exact symptom as previously, which is really weird, as I'd assume at least the new board would behave differently.
I tried to disconnect the battery for a bit to allow the whole car's module to reset, still no luck.
Might just to bite the bullet and send the KESSY and ELV to the workshops
02-16-2019, 01:55 AM
