scottmotorsports

Is Suncoast the best place to get the Coolant Pipe Kit? I live in the Chicago Burbs didn't know if there was a closer place. Looks like this kit has everything, do I need a new Intake gasket or do all the gaskets also come with there kit?

Slow Guy

Either Sunset in OR or Suncoast in FL, Sunset may be a bit closer for you.

porsche52

That is how I always do it too. I have watched other techs try to do it from the top, they end up spending 2-3 hours just on that one plug. Funny stuff

JohnnyBahamas

Sunset in Oregon sold me their version of the "Kit" of parts that they put together for $410.03... the lowest I could find. That does not include good extended life anti-freeze which, of course, you can get anywhere for about $12/gal.

Sunset also had a great price on the most recent coils w/ part number ending in -.07 for $33.44 each. That was also the lowest I could find. And I got the turbo plugs there, too.

Gotta say even at just 27400 miles the new plugs and coils make a nice difference.

GL

chily2008

I am in the middle of replacing my coolant pipes. Unfortunately, the large upper pipe sprung a leak yesterday.

What additional steps are needed for a Turbo? So far, everything has been coming along ok. A real PITA.

Also, any other ideas on how to get the lower pipe out other than melting and the eye bolt option. Using MAPP gas scares me and I don't have the right tools for the other option.

JohnnyBahamas

I cut the pipes with an electric jigsaw, top and bottom. Tops were easy. Big bottom piece came out from the passenger side of the engine with a big pull. On the lower pipe small piece a five lbs. slide hammer would do the trick or even a length of rope to the eye hook and then over your shoulder and put your body weight into it.

Other than the extra vacuum hoses on the turbo the major thing was completely removing that aluminum colored canister in its bracket from the passenger side wheel panel next to the engine torque arm. It's the only way to get a wrench on the torque arm bolt head facing the firewall.

(you might want to take a digital pic of all the hoses and where they are run over and under before you start as a put together reference)



Oh, I spent 99% of the time on my shins on the radiator cowl of the front fascia of the car, so I used my ex-wife's favorite pillow to cushion my shins.

Plus, I'm a big fan of Petzl headlamp LED lights. Cheap and tough and where ever you look, there's bright white light. Great for nooks and crannies in the back of the engine.

And Ibuprofen.

Good luck.

IH8-V8

Great topic gentlemen, thank you for all of your efforts. I have a persistent smell of radiator fluid wafting from my vehicle, with no drips anywhere. I feel like I am driving a ticking time bomb after reading this post.

I appreciated the post showing how to access the service manual though Porsche, and I might consider that approach. However, can you guys recommend anyone that sells a digital (pdf) manual? Do you guys recommend the ebay versions?

Also, I may have missed it, did anyone answer definitively how to check if you have the pipe upgrade without taking off the intake?

Finally, any reputable mechanic in Rochester NY that wants to make it worth it for me to pay him instead of me tackling this myself?

porsche52

See the sticky post called "Plastic or Aluminum coolant pipes, how to tell without intake removal:"

Clutch-n-Throttle

My coolant pipes let got yesterday. I have read through the thread with great relief that I can do the job. Thank you all for the great info.

My question is....

Is there a suitable alternative for the O-ring lube? Do I need the get the Porsche certified lube for this job?

Thanks for the help.

bbcoach51

Has anyone replaced the heater hose (T's) between the engine and firewall? My coolant pipes have been replaced. I just developed a leak coming from behind the engine. I'm assuming I can pull the intake and upper coolant lines to get to the heater hose T's???? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

JKCTT

Replacing cracked pipes on my 2004 Turbo with 66,000 miles. Does anybody know if it is worth it to change the starter at the same time? It looks like by the location, you would have to take out the coolant pipes to change the starter if it ever failed.

Also, similar question to bbcoach51... If you have done the job, have you replaced the T hoses as well?

Thanks

bbcoach51

Don't do the coolant pipes without the two T's behind the engine. I'm in the process of changing them right now and so far everything is taken out except the lower coolant pipe. I'm still struggling to get the T out. Very little space, can't see to squeeze the circle clamp and almost impossible to reach down behind the engine. A real pain..... I believe most dealers are changing them when they do the coolant pipes. Again, don't let them do the pipes without replacing them as well.

pcst

"T" hoses are only for Turbo engines correct?

Eric_Shea

Just got bit last night... the entire family in the car on UT Hwy 6 on the way to Moab. Actually, I have a tranny issue that caused the pipes to break.

Stranded at 11:00PM about 22 miles up Spanish Fork on the most dangerous road in the entire state with a 4800lb trailer in tow. Finally got everyone home at 4:30AM (dog too...)

My transmission was performing some "Violent" downshifts when it had to do a 2 gear shift (5th to 3rd going up a grade) It was the most horrendous bang I'd ever felt in a car. No doubt this caused the plastic lines to crack.

No cloud of steam from the engine though. Do these "tips" have a modulator? This thread has me confident of what happened to my coolant but I "really" want to address the tranny issue now. I'm kinda happy I get to replace the pipes. One less thing to worry about when doing BLM camping in Utah.

mudman2

I suppose you were manual shifting per the book ? transmission will not damage the pipes

You may have more problems than you think