Konstantin

Hello
When the engine or gearbox is cold all is fine. When I let the engine run for about 20 min and the engine is hot then it stalls and doesnt run any more. If I try to start it again it just dies after 3 sec. Same with the gears. When it is cold all is ok. When it is warm after 10-20 min it does not shift. I dont know if the car doesnt shift because of no input of the engine to the gear box, or the gearbox has a problem thats why the ECU doesnt tell to the gearbox to shift. If I let the car cool down then it starts and shifts again. The Problem is only when the engine is warm. Yesterday it worked fine even when it was full warm with ATF temp at 65 Degree celsius and engine at 85 Degree Celsius. Before that it died three times.
The engine stoped at ATF temp 45 degrees Celsius.

I checked the fuses and the relais 1/6 and the car stalls after 10 sec when pulling the relais. So I quess the Fuel pump or relais is ok or maybe they have problem only sometimes and only when they are warm? I have the durametric. The "load" cell is ok and shows idle enrichment, deccelaration etc but when i choose the "throttle angle" cell it shows either 0% or 100%. nothing between. Sometimes it does not even shows 100% when I gow to 100%. It stays at 0%
How to check the throttle Position sensor? Any other ideas what to check? I was at the dealer to check the car and all worked fine. I left the shop and 2 min later it stoped working. I waited for the truck to tow me home and till it came (it took about 30 min) the car worked fine again.

No errors on the dash or the durametric.

anyone has a pic of the ATF oil tube? I want to check the oil and refill it but I have no special pump to put oil in it. Anyone with a pictures of a self made tool to put the ATF in the gera box?
Car has this problem for over 3 months now and I have no free time to check it and I dont want to tow it to the dealer again and wait for 4 weeks till they find out (if they find) what it is.

Thanks

Konstantin

Konstantin

nobody has a clue whats going on with my car? is it so dificult for teh experts in this forum ? no infos at all??

endless_corners

Well my ml430 was doing something similar when the crankshaft position sensor was failing.. only showed up when warm..

ltc

I would assume the dealer verified that the ECU and TCU firmware images are up to date and compatible?
There were issues , although not this severe, related to mismatches between the 2 units' firmware.

I would also assume that you have already replaced the (main) battery in the vehicle.

When you say it does not shift, do you mean it is essentially in neutral and no power is transferred to the (rear) wheels or is it simply stuck in gear?

Have you tried pushing the 'PSM Off' button and seeing if that makes a difference?

bigbuzuki

Due to the intermittent nature of the defect, it could be a bad electrical connection in your DME and TCU circuits.

The fact that your not getting any intermediate readings on the throttle angle is also a clue.

The easiest and cheapest maintenance I would do is to disconnect, inspect and reconnect the electrical connectors on the DME, TCU and throttle body and see what happens.

ltc

From the OP description, it seemed to be related more to time/temperature rather than a (random) electrical connection.

However, there have been a few reports of damaged electrical connectors due to transmission fluid leaks, so perhaps this is one of them?

Konstantin

hello
some updates. the car runs up to 90 degree oil and water temp and then it shut of the engine. This is after about 15-20 min runing. Then I try to start the engine and it starts but goes of. After 2-3 times the engine starts do not goes off but the car do not respond to teh throttle. It idles low about 400 rpm then soemetimes goes up to 800 then 400 etc.
After 5 min doing this the car works fine again. It picks up throttle very good and very responsive on throttle.Nolag any more as before.

What I noticed is that whne I shift to R or to N I see the 2 outer lights on the park control which are red!!! I didnt have this before!
Also the Durametric it showed once error 1415 no ECU control (under transfer case) and once short to ground or positive.
Recharged the battery full for 3 days. Why should I rpelce it. The cra was ok for 10000 km before starting doing this.
I can move teh shifter very easy etc but when it gets warm I cant move. It goes to D but the car dosnt move. it doesnt shows 1st or 2nd ven If I shift manualy.
I checked the fuel pressuer and it is ok. I also checked both fuel pumps and they are working. I thought maybe it goes of because of low fuel pressure but this was not teh case. It goes of even with 4 bar pressure.

Aftsre I deleted teh errors with the durametric tehy are not coming back any more.
What does the 2 outer red lights on the park control means?

Thanks

Konstantin

why the engine goes off after 20 min idle and the engine gets hot? Does teh car has a timmer to shut offthe engine after idles for 20 min???
Later the engine is even hotter but it runs ok and pick up throttle.

why the trottlle showes 0% or100%
where is the throttle sensor?

XR4Tim

There is a sensor on the accelerator pedal itself, and also one on the throttle body. I would also check the wiring harness coming out of your transmission. Unplug the connectors where they go into the transmission and see if the contacts are covered in transmission oil. If they are, you will need to replace your transmission wiring harness. If not, I'd suspect a throttle body problem. It's also possible that you have more than one issue with your Cayenne.

Konstantin

thanks
I will check tomorow as it is midnight in Germany now.
It is getting anoying after 6 months not driving the car and in 2 days i have to leave again for work.

more than one issue? why I get no Error codes except the 2 red lights on the parc control??

mudman2

I would make sure your battery is ok, if its original replace it first since this can cause all sorts of strange things to occur.

Konstantin

i let my batterie for 3 months in the car without starting or charging and the car still started fine. This was after the problem occured. It has 12.5 v before I start it and 13.7 when it is running. I dont know how old is it. I bought the car and drove only 10000 km in 6 months

Konstantin

I just found the P0907 and the P1299. What is this? I just saw an older posting with the same codes. any clue what is this and why?

Thanks

Konstantin

I foundthis online P0907 Gate Select Position Circuit High


http://www.myscantool.com/dtc/powertrain.html

what does it means?

deilenberger

Konstantin,

I think you're wishing you didn't have to replace the battery.. but it's worth having a "Load Test" done on the battery to see if it's still OK. After sitting for 3 months it should have been discharged to much less then 100% charge (if you left it connected to the vehicle), and it might never recover from that discharge. A load-test will tell all. Any good garage/service will have the tester needed.

The reason people are suggesting the battery as a possibility is - they are a known common point of failure, and when they start failing (despite being able to start the car) - often multiple electronic faults start appearing. You're presenting us with multiple electronic faults - on unrelated systems. To a lot of people - that screams BATTERY. Many people have been there done that - chased their tail trying to track down multiple faults, and end up curing all the problems with a new battery.

GET THE BATTERY TESTED.

As others have pointed out - you appear to have a thermally induced intermittent problem. The hints on your idle behavior and the readings from your throttle body on the Durametric would make me start looking there first if the battery doesn't cure it. I don't have my Durametric at hand, but there is probably a function that allows you to read the position of the throttle sensor when you step on the gas pedal. What's that reading?

It would be worth checking all connectors going to the pedal assembly and to the throttle-body (TB).

Since you describe what appears to be thermally induced problems the issue is more likely with the throttle-body (since it heats up under the hood.) If you remove the intake Y to the TB - can you move the plate with your fingers (gently since it spins up the TB motor via the geared connection.)? Is it binding? Sticky? Clean or dirty? It might be worthwhile removing the TB (not hard) and cleaning it and lubricating the gear assembly (that's been reported to help with idle speed issues at least once..) And clean the connectors.

As was suggested - it's also worth checking the connector for the transmission harness since this is a known weak point on early P!Gs. Any oil found inside that connector will indicate the harness has failed.

It's not clear to me what you're referring to as "park control" - what is this? And where is it?

There is no shut-off timer on the engine.

Let us know how it works out..