Steering Rack Replacement
#1
Cows-4-Rent
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Thread Starter
Steering Rack Replacement
Just wanted to let you know that if you need to replace your rack check out car steering wholesale.
Got a brand new OEM rack (not refurbished) for something like $545.00. They charged $25 to ship it 2-day that included the core return shipping.
Most of what you will see online is around $850 for rebuilt.
They are very knowledgeable staff. Not in any way affiliated just appreciative of excellent customer service!
Got a brand new OEM rack (not refurbished) for something like $545.00. They charged $25 to ship it 2-day that included the core return shipping.
Most of what you will see online is around $850 for rebuilt.
They are very knowledgeable staff. Not in any way affiliated just appreciative of excellent customer service!
#3
Cows-4-Rent
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Thread Starter
#4
Hey Jeff,
I know this is an old post but would you be able to dig deep into your memory and share just how you got the old steering rack out of the car? Did it slide out from the driver wheel well? Only other option seems to be is drop the subframe (no thanks).
I know this is an old post but would you be able to dig deep into your memory and share just how you got the old steering rack out of the car? Did it slide out from the driver wheel well? Only other option seems to be is drop the subframe (no thanks).
#5
Two weekends ago I attacked the Cayenne and replaced the steering rack with a re-manufactured one from Detroit Axle. Had to drop the subframe down a little by removing the rear bolts and undoing the front ones to let it sag in the rear. Removed the driver side inner tie rod to make the rack shorter in order to snake it out from where it lives on top of the subframe.
The other direction was actually easier and install took about half the time as removal.
Caution: put an oil pan under the PS lines before pulling them off, simple and obvious but I overlooked this part.
There isn't much info online on how to do this so thought I'd share. If need be I can elaborate for anyone who is going to attempt this repair.
She's finally in a state of bliss. All new bushings/tie rods/ball joints/control arms/steering rack, 32" all terrains, custom brush guard/roof basket/3x jerry can holder/full spare on a swing away rack, CB radio, ax/shovel, 48" LED light bar and some other goodies.
Offroad anyone?
Anza Borrego area, this trail didn't get any easier.
100% slope
DD
The other direction was actually easier and install took about half the time as removal.
Caution: put an oil pan under the PS lines before pulling them off, simple and obvious but I overlooked this part.
There isn't much info online on how to do this so thought I'd share. If need be I can elaborate for anyone who is going to attempt this repair.
She's finally in a state of bliss. All new bushings/tie rods/ball joints/control arms/steering rack, 32" all terrains, custom brush guard/roof basket/3x jerry can holder/full spare on a swing away rack, CB radio, ax/shovel, 48" LED light bar and some other goodies.
Offroad anyone?
Anza Borrego area, this trail didn't get any easier.
100% slope
DD
#7
Two weekends ago I attacked the Cayenne and replaced the steering rack with a re-manufactured one from Detroit Axle. Had to drop the subframe down a little by removing the rear bolts and undoing the front ones to let it sag in the rear. Removed the driver side inner tie rod to make the rack shorter in order to snake it out from where it lives on top of the subframe.
The other direction was actually easier and install took about half the time as removal.
Caution: put an oil pan under the PS lines before pulling them off, simple and obvious but I overlooked this part.
There isn't much info online on how to do this so thought I'd share. If need be I can elaborate for anyone who is going to attempt this repair.
The other direction was actually easier and install took about half the time as removal.
Caution: put an oil pan under the PS lines before pulling them off, simple and obvious but I overlooked this part.
There isn't much info online on how to do this so thought I'd share. If need be I can elaborate for anyone who is going to attempt this repair.
Fwiw, the dealer looks at me like I'm crazy and imagining things, but of course the loaner they give me while looking at it does not behave the same way.
What were your symptoms that lead you to do the replacement?
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#8
The rack on my car was shot from when I bought the car in the first place. It would pop and clack and crunch like it was a CV shaft or something (so now I have two new axles...). The steering wasn't loose, just the noise was discerning. Was probably the pinion trying to get past a worn tooth on the track. I'm known to throw a lot of parts at the car until it's eventually fixed which has an upside and apparent downside.
Tips for replacement:
Measure your subframe to a hard mount on the body so it can go back into place where it was from the factory.
Loosen front subframe bolts and remove rear bolts, use a jack stand or piece of wood to hold the bulk of weight.
Remove drive side tie rod so the rack can be easier removed through the passenger side (good time to replace tie rods and check control arm bushings).
Swear some.
Leave car on jack stands after completing all tasks, you'll have to fill power steering fluid and turn wheels from lock to lock several times before the thing stops whining.
Now go get an alignment.
Tips for replacement:
Measure your subframe to a hard mount on the body so it can go back into place where it was from the factory.
Loosen front subframe bolts and remove rear bolts, use a jack stand or piece of wood to hold the bulk of weight.
Remove drive side tie rod so the rack can be easier removed through the passenger side (good time to replace tie rods and check control arm bushings).
Swear some.
Leave car on jack stands after completing all tasks, you'll have to fill power steering fluid and turn wheels from lock to lock several times before the thing stops whining.
Now go get an alignment.
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Atl-Wagen (10-12-2021)
#10
NotSlowNotFast,
Thank you for sharing that. I've seen one video on YouTube where a shop mechanic was doing the same thing. The part about the driver-side (I'm assuming left-hand drive) tie rod was new. Like yourself, he pulled the rack out of the right (passenger) side. Although, he had the car on a two-post lift, using other jacks to support the weight. The fact that you only needed wood blocks is very encouraging, enough so, I'm motivated to move forward with this. I only have to acquire the rack, of which I'm in the process of and haven't received any callbacks from the rebuilder I chose. I found a few new places in today's search.
Anyway, thank you for elaborating on the job.
ShadeTreeMech
Thank you for sharing that. I've seen one video on YouTube where a shop mechanic was doing the same thing. The part about the driver-side (I'm assuming left-hand drive) tie rod was new. Like yourself, he pulled the rack out of the right (passenger) side. Although, he had the car on a two-post lift, using other jacks to support the weight. The fact that you only needed wood blocks is very encouraging, enough so, I'm motivated to move forward with this. I only have to acquire the rack, of which I'm in the process of and haven't received any callbacks from the rebuilder I chose. I found a few new places in today's search.
Anyway, thank you for elaborating on the job.
ShadeTreeMech
#12
When I did this job on my 2009 Turbo S with PDCC and Servotronic, other than removing the wheel well liners, all I had to do was remove the tie rods (maybe only the left side, but I removed both. Right-hand drive models, IDK), then I moved the steering shaft flush with the end of the left side. I had maybe a half-inch of clearance and got it out on the first try with the vehicle sitting on 6-ton jack stands (taller than the 3-ton versions) lying on my back. Do not move the steering wheel while the rack is out. The reverse was just as simple. I had no helpers from start to finish.
I got the job done for about $400, buying the rack from Detroit Axel and a container of Pentosin steering fluid (CHF 202?). They didn't even ask for a core return. It was the same Bosche rack but a year newer. I moved over a tiny screen mesh and two Torx bolts to match the originals (the replacement came with Allens). I also reused the Servotronic part with the wiring connector from the old rack and cleaned up the O-ring surfaces. The new rack came with tie rods, which I removed in favor of the ones I had - they were still good, and I was careful to leave them as they were to maintain the alignment. It all came out well with no play in the system.
To anyone thinking about doing this, it's DIY-friendly. I would encourage you to do it!
Use the proper tools and buy them if you don't have them. The most exotic tool I recall needing was an offset wrench for the rack mounting bolts.
I got the job done for about $400, buying the rack from Detroit Axel and a container of Pentosin steering fluid (CHF 202?). They didn't even ask for a core return. It was the same Bosche rack but a year newer. I moved over a tiny screen mesh and two Torx bolts to match the originals (the replacement came with Allens). I also reused the Servotronic part with the wiring connector from the old rack and cleaned up the O-ring surfaces. The new rack came with tie rods, which I removed in favor of the ones I had - they were still good, and I was careful to leave them as they were to maintain the alignment. It all came out well with no play in the system.
To anyone thinking about doing this, it's DIY-friendly. I would encourage you to do it!
Use the proper tools and buy them if you don't have them. The most exotic tool I recall needing was an offset wrench for the rack mounting bolts.