Air Suspension Faulty - Workshop Message Help
08-09-2023, 10:41 PM
#46
Racer
Hopefully this helps someone get out of a jam with the fault code 1400 and being stuck in any ride height level they don't want to be in to drive it safely and comfortably.
read my post above to see my issues, basically it was taking too much time to lower and wouldnt even get to low or loading level in the rear (front was fine)
learning from all the posts here combined with the 1400 code I read, it was likely the rear pressure valves on one or both rear air struts.
so, i put it in spec terrain level, turned off the level control, crawled underneath, took my smallest adjustable wrench (or equivalent short tool but one with some decent weight to it, and tapped about 10 times on each valve on each shock.
afterwords my suspension was back to norma, went up and now down without issuel, and has been error / problem free since.
Hypothesis, one or both valves got stuck, or had some debri in the line, and the tapping freed them up. Think I read this advice from someone else in the forum, thank you!
Im sure im on borrowed time, but im good for now, and I have time to order some new ones.
These only seem hard to replace due to the fact you have to contort your arms to get in there, and you have to work blind, as its hard too see them, unlike the fronts, plus you need to keep the vehicle supported while laying under it and removing them as the vehicle will drop when you disconnect the air line,, so as others have said, a lift seems the safest and best way to do this, again, unlike the fronts which you can do with ease without even getting under the pig.
i might try by driving up the rear on ramps, support it with jacks temporarily, but then let it down off the jacks leaving no possibility to fall on me, and hopefully with enough room to still get under it on the ramps and swap the valves out.
read my post above to see my issues, basically it was taking too much time to lower and wouldnt even get to low or loading level in the rear (front was fine)
learning from all the posts here combined with the 1400 code I read, it was likely the rear pressure valves on one or both rear air struts.
so, i put it in spec terrain level, turned off the level control, crawled underneath, took my smallest adjustable wrench (or equivalent short tool but one with some decent weight to it, and tapped about 10 times on each valve on each shock.
afterwords my suspension was back to norma, went up and now down without issuel, and has been error / problem free since.
Hypothesis, one or both valves got stuck, or had some debri in the line, and the tapping freed them up. Think I read this advice from someone else in the forum, thank you!
Im sure im on borrowed time, but im good for now, and I have time to order some new ones.
These only seem hard to replace due to the fact you have to contort your arms to get in there, and you have to work blind, as its hard too see them, unlike the fronts, plus you need to keep the vehicle supported while laying under it and removing them as the vehicle will drop when you disconnect the air line,, so as others have said, a lift seems the safest and best way to do this, again, unlike the fronts which you can do with ease without even getting under the pig.
i might try by driving up the rear on ramps, support it with jacks temporarily, but then let it down off the jacks leaving no possibility to fall on me, and hopefully with enough room to still get under it on the ramps and swap the valves out.
Last edited by Corvetteboy6988; 08-09-2023 at 10:47 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Fuego4~ (10-15-2023)
08-30-2023, 09:54 PM
#47
Good lord the suspension saga continues. So a quick recap - got the Suspension Faulty - see Workshop warning. As best I could tell, the compressor was not working. So I replaced it along with the air distribution block. Then it got worse, It went from the yellow Suspension Faulty warning to the RED Suspension failure warning. Geez. Looks I did not initialize it with with my iCarSoft Por 3.0 diagnostic tool. So it is likely the new compressor fried. Took it to the dealership and they tried to fix it - $1200 (and one month) later they could not fix it and said I needed a new compressor. Dealer cost to replace it $3300 - for a 2004 Cayenne Turbo. I said no.
My question - I still have the old compressor - is there any way to test to see if it works (outside the car)? If it does, I will likely reinstall it and use the iCarSoft to initialize it.
Any ideas or other suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.
My question - I still have the old compressor - is there any way to test to see if it works (outside the car)? If it does, I will likely reinstall it and use the iCarSoft to initialize it.
Any ideas or other suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.
09-02-2023, 11:52 AM
#48
Rennlist Member
The compressor is common to Audi, VW, MB and others.
The compressor assemblies from eBay have been problematic. Sometimes parts have to be swapped from the original assembly to get it functional.
Many posts about replacing the assembly but no mention of needing to initialize it.
The compressor can be run on the bench for test purposes but will overheat if run more than a few min.
Reason is the compressor is powered with PWM (pulsed DC).
The compressor assemblies from eBay have been problematic. Sometimes parts have to be swapped from the original assembly to get it functional.
Many posts about replacing the assembly but no mention of needing to initialize it.
The compressor can be run on the bench for test purposes but will overheat if run more than a few min.
Reason is the compressor is powered with PWM (pulsed DC).
09-02-2023, 06:41 PM
#49
Tested the old one. it works so will be reinstalling and running it through diagnostics with my iCarSoft POR 3.0. I did the same test on the one I bought on Amazon while it was still in the car. It's dead, so now time to swap them. I'll report back. If this does not work, will be installing the steel spring conversion.
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v10rick (09-02-2023)
09-03-2023, 04:03 PM
#50
And I broke one of the hoses (the black one that runs from the distribution block) - it is part number 95535805000 and is known as: pressure line compressor control mechanism.
Called my local Porsche dealer (they match the lowest internet price on parts plus I get a PCA discount) said there are only 3 available in the world. I guess thats two now...
Called my local Porsche dealer (they match the lowest internet price on parts plus I get a PCA discount) said there are only 3 available in the world. I guess thats two now...
Last edited by rob76turbo; 09-03-2023 at 05:21 PM.
