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Have a 2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo with around 110,000 miles on it and am experiencing a couple of issues. The other day I was driving and started to see smoke coming out from under the hood, smelled coolant, and the engine temp started to rise. I was only about a mile from the house so I kept an eye on the temp and made it home. Upon getting out of the car I noticed engine coolant looting out from under the front of the car. I immediately suspected the cooling pipes burst...
Before ordering the parts I decided to break her down and inspect the leak. So after I removing the intake , to my surprise the coolant pipes have already been replaced or maybe since it is a late model 06' could've possibly been done at the factory.?
So now the I'm wondering where to look next for this major coolant leak. I checked the water pump and radiator hoses and all seems well.
The second part of this involves my transmission. For the past couple of months my grand has been experiencing a delayed shift and hard slam when the trans finally shifts unless I feather out the shift. Under reserved driving conditions it has no issues at all but when I jam on it I experience the problem. I know, people say "just don't jam on the gas then", but that's not why I drive a Porsche, I refuse to *****-foot the pedal. So this brings us to today's coolant inspection, while taking things apart I noticed a couple vacuum leaks one of which was broken right off. The one that was broken off is back behind the intake almost against the firewall and ties into the line that goes to the pcv valve (or equivalent) and the other end tees into the metal tubes which I believe go to the trans but that's just a guess. So is there any possibility that the vacuum leaks can affect the shifting of the trans?
Any opinions are highly apply.
Likely your coolant reservoir. Replace the cap, as well. Easy job and common.
Change your tranny fluid, but likely it could be the valve body going bad. About $700 for a rebuilt unit and pretty easy DIY. The trans fluid needs to be changed way more frequently than the factory specs. If you have sludge in the pan, you've waited too long. And, we've all had sludge in there when we change the fluid. You can use OEM fluid, or go with something different. Do a search - LOTS of info on this and the various specs. Myself, and many others, use Redline D4. Choice is yours.
Someone replaced your coolant pipes. They never came metal from the factory. Check your coolant T's on the back of the motor. When they rupture, all your coolant goes right to the ground, and you'll be stranded.
I don't know who tells you to go light on the gas, but you'll never hear that advice being thrown around here!
Thanks wrinkled pants! Good info, I will check it out tomorrow. One other thing, I did notice some excessive oil in my throttle body and in the intake could this be from a bad seal in my oil/air separator or perhaps from my turbo seals?
[QUOTE]Change your tranny fluid, but likely it could be the valve body going bad. About $700 for a rebuilt unit and pretty easy DIY. The trans fluid needs to be changed way more frequently than the factory specs. If you have sludge in the pan, you've waited too long. And, we've all had sludge in there when we change the fluid. /QUOTE]
This. I had the gearbox oil changed in mine and the hard downshift frequency has reduced but it's still there when the car is running hot. The garage said that the state of the old oil was 'very bad' so mine had definitely been left for too long and now the valve body is toast. I'm getting my diff oils changed because if the gearbox oil was that bad then the diff's and transfer box wont be much better.
Maybe getting the diff and TB oils changed might be something you should consider too for some preventative maintenance?
Thanks wrinkled pants! Good info, I will check it out tomorrow. One other thing, I did notice some excessive oil in my throttle body and in the intake could this be from a bad seal in my oil/air separator or perhaps from my turbo seals?
There should be oil in your charge pipes after the turbo. Part of the design of the crank ventilation system. Turbo failures are exceedingly rare on this car.
Definitely check the coolant reservoir like wrinkledpants suggests. They are known to crack and leak. I just replaced mine. 1500 miles later and my coolant level hasn't dropped a millimeter. Easy DIY and highly recommended if you have the original reservoir because if it isn't leaking it's just a matter time before it starts. Pelican has a tutorial
Coolant reservoir or the T's are the likely culprits. I've had to do both in the past year. The reservoir failure on mine was more gradual, when the T failed, it was a very sudden dump of coolant. If it is a T, I highly suggest changing both of them and the hoses, as it's not a lot of fun to get back there.
Coolant reservoir or the T's are the likely culprits. I've had to do both in the past year. The reservoir failure on mine was more gradual, when the T failed, it was a very sudden dump of coolant. If it is a T, I highly suggest changing both of them and the hoses, as it's not a lot of fun to get back there.
Thanks, any chance you have pics of your fix in progress or the location of these "T's"?
I have a CTT 08 with 133K miles. At my indies suggestion at 132K I had them change the trannie fluid. Got it back and the small shifting problem was worse, had them recheck fluid level still not good. Take it to Porsche, they say fluid is overfilled, get it back from them and it hardly works, limp to trannie shop.
They have it apart and found some metal in pan. Trannie is being rebuilt for $6K plus. Looks like we are going to drive it another 5 years (probably around 200K miles).
Crap.... You were right, it's the upper "T"!
How in the heck do you get to that thing???? Looks like a major pain in the ***...
Take out the intake, take off the pipes (mainly so you can pull the bracket off the back of them). Then lay on top of the motor and reach over the back. You won't be able to see what you are doing, it's done by feel. You need "remote reach" hose clamp pliers (the cable kind that lock). You pull the clamps & cut off the hoses (at least where the new T has new hoses). A single edged razor blade works well for the cutting. Thread a piece of string through the hole in it so when (not if) you drop it you don't have to climb down and crawl under the car to get it.
04-28-2016, 10:31 PM
Any ideas where to look next?
