Air Suspension Not Possible : I will defeat it.
#121
Race Car
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL Duval County
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hilariously, I logged into Rennlist searching for a replacement to my 2011 Cayenne Turbo that started this thread, and saw that I was tagged months ago. The valve block replacement is easy DIY.
I guess I'll provide an update on the car. Back in 2018 it probably had like 80k miles and it has 144k now. I am still running the aftermarket valve block and the aftermarket compressor. I have replaced every strut, some of them a couple of times. Back when Porsche sold the entire strut, I put one or two of those on, but more recently I have been buying the Bilstein complete struts from FCP Euro, to take advantage of the FCP lifetime guarantee.
Some notes about the bilstein struts: Fitment is fine, but the air valves are different, so the air lines don't go exactly where they do on the OE struts. The ride quality is OE.
The part of the strut that the air valve threads into is plastic, not metal like on the OE, and let me tell you, it is garbage. The joint between the air valve and the strut's plastic body is really prone to leaking, and on top of that, it can be overtorqued and stripped out by a toddler's bare hands, which effectively ruins the strut.
None of my initial errors ever returned, but the car still throws the "chassis system failure" red fault accompanied with the "cannot adjust, suspension too high / too low" fault code under the following conditions:
1. Attempts to use loading level
2. Attempts to use high 2 (although about half the time it will say it is at high 2, but one side of the car will be wayyy higher than the other)
3. Disconnecting a trailer. This one happens 100% of the time. Oddly, connecting a trailer seems okay. But if you disconnect a trailer, it will seem to air down okay, but then within about 2 miles of driving, 100% of the time, it throws the chassis failure. Fortunately, it usually clears itself within another few miles. I've attempted to switch off the height adjusting by holding the rocker switch up until it flashes, disconnecting the trailer, and then reactivating the height adjustment. Didn't help.
4. When the car automatically goes from normal to low level due to speed on the highway. This one only happens sometime.
I don't get any issues with the car drooping while parked because every time it would do this, I would hunt down which strut was leaking and replace it.
The compressor does seem to run a long time sometimes when the car is not quite level and it struggles to get itself sorted out.
I guess I'll provide an update on the car. Back in 2018 it probably had like 80k miles and it has 144k now. I am still running the aftermarket valve block and the aftermarket compressor. I have replaced every strut, some of them a couple of times. Back when Porsche sold the entire strut, I put one or two of those on, but more recently I have been buying the Bilstein complete struts from FCP Euro, to take advantage of the FCP lifetime guarantee.
Some notes about the bilstein struts: Fitment is fine, but the air valves are different, so the air lines don't go exactly where they do on the OE struts. The ride quality is OE.
The part of the strut that the air valve threads into is plastic, not metal like on the OE, and let me tell you, it is garbage. The joint between the air valve and the strut's plastic body is really prone to leaking, and on top of that, it can be overtorqued and stripped out by a toddler's bare hands, which effectively ruins the strut.
None of my initial errors ever returned, but the car still throws the "chassis system failure" red fault accompanied with the "cannot adjust, suspension too high / too low" fault code under the following conditions:
1. Attempts to use loading level
2. Attempts to use high 2 (although about half the time it will say it is at high 2, but one side of the car will be wayyy higher than the other)
3. Disconnecting a trailer. This one happens 100% of the time. Oddly, connecting a trailer seems okay. But if you disconnect a trailer, it will seem to air down okay, but then within about 2 miles of driving, 100% of the time, it throws the chassis failure. Fortunately, it usually clears itself within another few miles. I've attempted to switch off the height adjusting by holding the rocker switch up until it flashes, disconnecting the trailer, and then reactivating the height adjustment. Didn't help.
4. When the car automatically goes from normal to low level due to speed on the highway. This one only happens sometime.
I don't get any issues with the car drooping while parked because every time it would do this, I would hunt down which strut was leaking and replace it.
The compressor does seem to run a long time sometimes when the car is not quite level and it struggles to get itself sorted out.
The following users liked this post:
TyreReviews (11-28-2022)
#122
Rennlist Member
hilariously, I logged into Rennlist searching for a replacement to my 2011 Cayenne Turbo that started this thread, and saw that I was tagged months ago. The valve block replacement is easy DIY.
I guess I'll provide an update on the car. Back in 2018 it probably had like 80k miles and it has 144k now. I am still running the aftermarket valve block and the aftermarket compressor. I have replaced every strut, some of them a couple of times. Back when Porsche sold the entire strut, I put one or two of those on, but more recently I have been buying the Bilstein complete struts from FCP Euro, to take advantage of the FCP lifetime guarantee.
Some notes about the bilstein struts: Fitment is fine, but the air valves are different, so the air lines don't go exactly where they do on the OE struts. The ride quality is OE.
The part of the strut that the air valve threads into is plastic, not metal like on the OE, and let me tell you, it is garbage. The joint between the air valve and the strut's plastic body is really prone to leaking, and on top of that, it can be overtorqued and stripped out by a toddler's bare hands, which effectively ruins the strut.
None of my initial errors ever returned, but the car still throws the "chassis system failure" red fault accompanied with the "cannot adjust, suspension too high / too low" fault code under the following conditions:
1. Attempts to use loading level
2. Attempts to use high 2 (although about half the time it will say it is at high 2, but one side of the car will be wayyy higher than the other)
3. Disconnecting a trailer. This one happens 100% of the time. Oddly, connecting a trailer seems okay. But if you disconnect a trailer, it will seem to air down okay, but then within about 2 miles of driving, 100% of the time, it throws the chassis failure. Fortunately, it usually clears itself within another few miles. I've attempted to switch off the height adjusting by holding the rocker switch up until it flashes, disconnecting the trailer, and then reactivating the height adjustment. Didn't help.
4. When the car automatically goes from normal to low level due to speed on the highway. This one only happens sometime.
I don't get any issues with the car drooping while parked because every time it would do this, I would hunt down which strut was leaking and replace it.
The compressor does seem to run a long time sometimes when the car is not quite level and it struggles to get itself sorted out.
I guess I'll provide an update on the car. Back in 2018 it probably had like 80k miles and it has 144k now. I am still running the aftermarket valve block and the aftermarket compressor. I have replaced every strut, some of them a couple of times. Back when Porsche sold the entire strut, I put one or two of those on, but more recently I have been buying the Bilstein complete struts from FCP Euro, to take advantage of the FCP lifetime guarantee.
Some notes about the bilstein struts: Fitment is fine, but the air valves are different, so the air lines don't go exactly where they do on the OE struts. The ride quality is OE.
The part of the strut that the air valve threads into is plastic, not metal like on the OE, and let me tell you, it is garbage. The joint between the air valve and the strut's plastic body is really prone to leaking, and on top of that, it can be overtorqued and stripped out by a toddler's bare hands, which effectively ruins the strut.
None of my initial errors ever returned, but the car still throws the "chassis system failure" red fault accompanied with the "cannot adjust, suspension too high / too low" fault code under the following conditions:
1. Attempts to use loading level
2. Attempts to use high 2 (although about half the time it will say it is at high 2, but one side of the car will be wayyy higher than the other)
3. Disconnecting a trailer. This one happens 100% of the time. Oddly, connecting a trailer seems okay. But if you disconnect a trailer, it will seem to air down okay, but then within about 2 miles of driving, 100% of the time, it throws the chassis failure. Fortunately, it usually clears itself within another few miles. I've attempted to switch off the height adjusting by holding the rocker switch up until it flashes, disconnecting the trailer, and then reactivating the height adjustment. Didn't help.
4. When the car automatically goes from normal to low level due to speed on the highway. This one only happens sometime.
I don't get any issues with the car drooping while parked because every time it would do this, I would hunt down which strut was leaking and replace it.
The compressor does seem to run a long time sometimes when the car is not quite level and it struggles to get itself sorted out.
In the old style, the valve screwed right into the plastic shock body. In the new style, the valve screws into a 90 degree elbow that is set by the manufacturer. You have have to touch the 90 degree connection.
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1thenaton1 (11-30-2022)
#123
Do you have the old style Bilsteins or the new? By your description, sounds like you have the old style. I swapped all my old style shocks and struts for the new model, approved by the store who sold them to me as they knew about the change in design.
In the old style, the valve screwed right into the plastic shock body. In the new style, the valve screws into a 90 degree elbow that is set by the manufacturer. You have have to touch the 90 degree connection.
In the old style, the valve screwed right into the plastic shock body. In the new style, the valve screws into a 90 degree elbow that is set by the manufacturer. You have have to touch the 90 degree connection.
I installed the Arnott shocks and they are great, ride is better than OE (purely subjective), and they fit exactly as desired without any errors or any other fettling requirements.
#124
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#125
If either one comes off it should be a simple fix to clamp it tight.
#126
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
So they say...... but I play with it all day long in traffic, up/dow/up/down/up/down, on the freeway/standing still etc., I just cannot keep my fat fingers of it. I checked the bottom and the top of the airbags, the top has no clip around it and is just slipped on tightly (just like the OEM), the bottom has one of those annoying single use metal bands for which you need a special tool, it is tight too. I will let you know if either comes off, and I am off-roading the p!g!
If either one comes off it should be a simple fix to clamp it tight.
If either one comes off it should be a simple fix to clamp it tight.
I'm not sure why they don't crimp them, but hopefully yours hold up and don't destroy the hydraulic lines when they come apart. Even though I could send them back, I had to eat the labor, nitrogen, and new screws to replace. And then do it all again when I got the old Bilstein version and those required replacing.
Last edited by garrett376; 11-29-2022 at 12:52 AM.
#127
Whoops you are right I just checked, my factories have a crimp at the top not at the bottom ( not sure why I saw that wrong, probably having a blonde day). The bottom of the Arnott's have a crimp but not the top. if they fail I will let you know, they certainly seem tight, but who knows...
#128
Rennlist Member
Seems like an expensive way to test if the design is new/old, and hence working/not working. This makes me think this is not one of Bilsteins greater products! Did Billstein replace the faulty design cost free and pay for labor too?
I installed the Arnott shocks and they are great, ride is better than OE (purely subjective), and they fit exactly as desired without any errors or any other fettling requirements.
I installed the Arnott shocks and they are great, ride is better than OE (purely subjective), and they fit exactly as desired without any errors or any other fettling requirements.
Everything was cost free except for the labor which never is. For what it's worth, I installed and reinstalled my suspension myself. G5 nitrogen and my labor is cheap.
#129
Instructor
Anyone ever seen this code? I can't find it on the forum:
PORSCHE_EN_TEST_00001>Vehicle Select>Cayenne-92A (2011 - 2017)>Control Unit>LEC (Level Control)>Read Fault Code:
Total Number : 3
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
000133 1/3
Active
Shock absorber valve RL, open circuit
The other two faults are inactive.
I recently put a lift kit on so might have knocked some cables.
PORSCHE_EN_TEST_00001>Vehicle Select>Cayenne-92A (2011 - 2017)>Control Unit>LEC (Level Control)>Read Fault Code:
Total Number : 3
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
000133 1/3
Active
Shock absorber valve RL, open circuit
The other two faults are inactive.
I recently put a lift kit on so might have knocked some cables.
#130
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Anyone ever seen this code? I can't find it on the forum:
PORSCHE_EN_TEST_00001>Vehicle Select>Cayenne-92A (2011 - 2017)>Control Unit>LEC (Level Control)>Read Fault Code:
Total Number : 3
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
000133 1/3
Active
Shock absorber valve RL, open circuit
The other two faults are inactive.
I recently put a lift kit on so might have knocked some cables.
PORSCHE_EN_TEST_00001>Vehicle Select>Cayenne-92A (2011 - 2017)>Control Unit>LEC (Level Control)>Read Fault Code:
Total Number : 3
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
000133 1/3
Active
Shock absorber valve RL, open circuit
The other two faults are inactive.
I recently put a lift kit on so might have knocked some cables.
The PASM plug is likely not currently connected (or damaged) if the code is active.
The following users liked this post:
TyreReviews (08-02-2023)
#133
Instructor
#134
Rennlist Member
#135
Rennlist Member
The following users liked this post:
TyreReviews (08-02-2023)