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Guys,
I think my 2011 CS shows some very minor symptoms of worn TC clutches and so I intend to remove the TC and rebuild it with parts from awdtech. Another member posted a thread about this, but when asked for details about the process, he has not responded and has not been active here for 3 months. I sent him a PM hoping for details but no luck.
So, I'd like to start a new thread that contains the procedure for removing the TC from the vehicle and goes through the rebuild.
Can anyone with experience removing the TC or who has access to alldata/workshop manuals address the steps required to remove the TC from the vehicle. It doesn't look overly complex, but removing the drive shafts and whether the exhaust has to go are questions I have.
Once the unit is out, I will take step by step pictures and provide a description or the rebuild process.
Thanks for any assistance that will greatly benefit the community.
Last edited by Quadcammer; 06-03-2019 at 12:09 PM.
I'd suggest investing the $15 it costs to get an AllDataDIY account. They always have some deal to a cheap annual subscription. While there is no detail on rebuilding the case itself - I'm sure R&R of it is covered. Having AllData handy on a laptop while doing the job might be priceless - you'll have torque numbers handy, any special tools needed, etc.
It appears fairly obvious the driveshafts have to be disconnected from the case, but I can't recall any clearance problems with the exhaust..
Do you have a lift? Doing it on jack-stands might be a bit iffy. If you do have a lift and want help in documenting it - you're not that far from me, I could likely travel to take some pics and notes. Photos of removal and installation will make the DIY even more valuable.
There are no bolts on the driveshafts and the only thing seemingly holding them on is a snap ring...well that and the lack of clearance to fully extend. It appears the exhaust crosses over in front of the rear diff, so to fully drop the shaft, this would need to be removed. I'm not sure if there is enough play to simply pry the shaft back off the snap ring.
Have you found Don that the Icarsoft would be able to reset the TC module as has been discussed in the "transfer case" thread and mentioned by AWD Tech? I don't know anyone with a PIWIS unfortunately.
There are no bolts on the driveshafts and the only thing seemingly holding them on is a snap ring...well that and the lack of clearance to fully extend. It appears the exhaust crosses over in front of the rear diff, so to fully drop the shaft, this would need to be removed. I'm not sure if there is enough play to simply pry the shaft back off the snap ring.
Have you found Don that the Icarsoft would be able to reset the TC module as has been discussed in the "transfer case" thread and mentioned by AWD Tech? I don't know anyone with a PIWIS unfortunately.
Thanks.
If the durametric pro can do it, I can help you out.
I'd suggest investing the $15 it costs to get an AllDataDIY account. They always have some deal to a cheap annual subscription. While there is no detail on rebuilding the case itself - I'm sure R&R of it is covered. Having AllData handy on a laptop while doing the job might be priceless - you'll have torque numbers handy, any special tools needed, etc.
It appears fairly obvious the driveshafts have to be disconnected from the case, but I can't recall any clearance problems with the exhaust..
Do you have a lift? Doing it on jack-stands might be a bit iffy. If you do have a lift and want help in documenting it - you're not that far from me, I could likely travel to take some pics and notes. Photos of removal and installation will make the DIY even more valuable.
Yup I just purchased a 5 year subscription to assist in my front suspension R&R.
just saw your PM, haven't been too active on here lately as I've been spending so much time at work and running around with the family. Transfer Case is rocking on fine!
for anyone interested, this is what I replied in the PM:
Not really a bad job at all. I have air suspension on my GTS, so raised it up as high as it would go. I pulled out the cross member when I did mine but I don't think its really necessary. I used a regular racing jack to help me lower the transfer case down although I lifted it back in place without it. The front and rear driveshafts pop off, took a bit of force and leverage but I managed. Few extensions to get the top bolts but nothing dramatic. Once the case is on the work bench, its pretty easy. I rigged up something to push the case halves apart, the sealant holds it together pretty tight. Snap ring pliers are about the only special tool needed. Case is held together by the Torx bolts, want to say T25. I ended up replacing the chain and clutch discs from AWD.tech. Pulled the car in, case out, rebuilt and driving it to dinner all in the same day.
I used the following torque applications that I borrowed from BMW and Benz rebuild info I found online
M8 Hex screws: 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).M10 Hex screws: 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).M12 Hex screws: 60 ft. lbs. (82 Nm).M8 Torx bolts: 16 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).M10 Torx bolts: 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).M12 Torx bolts: 54 ft. lbs. (72 Nm).
Its not a bad job, just no information out there about it. I bit the bullet and it worked out. Nothing to be scared of, no tolerances, clearances, etc to verify.
I used a pry bar to pop the drive shafts off. One stiff pop with palm and boom, they're off. Getting the front one BACK on and locked in place was a bit if a bear because its hard to get leverage to push back on and snap in place. The driveshafts retract in about an inch, just enough to get off the splines. I let the front one drop down and rest on something, the rear on I let rest on a jack stand. I didn't have to do a thing with the exhaust. Also left the actuator motor in place, just unplugged the electrical connection obviously.
I left the plastic air scoop off when I put it all back together. Its not missed and seems like it adds the risk of water contamination into the fish mouth vent. New style vent **should** eradicate the water intrusion. Go ahead and buy an extra set of plastic dust shields, I had to destroy the front one to extract the half shaft out of the case.
Now if anyone could help me figure out how to get the second bolt from the back on the outside passenger valve cover, i'd be grateful!!! I have a random drip that appears to come from the valve cover in this area.
Last edited by e30rapidic; 01-10-2019 at 10:12 PM.
Reason: added info
e30rapidic - love your posting. If this happens (R&R and rebuild of Quadcammer's XFERcase) - can you contribute and proof read any DIY that comes out of it - and perhaps list the torque values you used for reassembly?
01-10-2019, 02:03 PM
958 Step by Step Transfer Case Rebuild
