SSDVC

OK, when using my remote to lock my 2015 CD, the rear drivers side door will fail to lock. All other doors lock and the alarm sets. If someone opens the rear drivers door the alarm will sound.

What would cause this issue and is there a simple fix?

Visualistics

Door lock actuator failure. Common problem, lots of threads about it here. Search should provide lots of answers.

Uroparts replacement is like $90. Mechanic will likely charge about $600-800 to replace.

SSDVC

I tried the remove rubber plug on the door and turn the yellow slotted head back and forth a few times. Seems to have fixed it for one or two cycles, but then it goes back to not locking. So I take it I'll be needing to replace the actuator? Is this is the part that will eventually need replacement - URO 8K0839015A (Left/Drivers Side)?

Visualistics

Yeah that’s the part number I bought as well.

fourthirteen

Not too bad of a DIY unless you have the powered sunshade option. That makes it a real PITA.

SSDVC

No powered sunshades, lucky me, so I should be able to fumble through it. Might as well jump in with both feet, so I am thinking of combining this repair with an oil change and the installation of a trailer hitch. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit. It will be a fun week, of pain and suffering.

gregeast

I replaced the driver's side rear last summer...and 3 weeks later the passenger side rear failed as well. Only the Germans could plan obsolescence so well!

I used this video that someone else posted awhile back, hope it helps.

Boomer80

I have the replacement Uro actuator for my left rear door and now just need a little bit of warmer weather to dig into the replacement. I’ve watched the video several times, but I’m just trying to get some clarity on one of the steps. At one point right before he finally removes the old one, it looks like he is reaching in and behind near the handle? to disconnect something. Is there a cable attached that can only be removed or something? Also is this also true for reverse on the install? It looks totally doable as I have all the tools, but definitely not paying the $600-800 that people are talking about for an Indy to do it.

gregeast

The actuator is connected to that white plastic "bracket" that you can see when he removes it. One part of that bracket is a tab that slides into a slot up by the door handle, I think that's what you're seeing. It's fiddly (like all things inside a door, sigh) to get it back into place, but not impossible.

One thing that this video does not address is loosening the two clamps that attach the regulator to the glass itself. You have to loosen the clamp from the door skin side, so it's a bit blind. The bigger deal is making sure that you position the clamps back in the exact same spot when you're ready, to ensure the window goes in the track properly and that the inner door panel lines up correctly as well.

May the Force be with you!

Boomer80

Thanks Gregeast! Yes, that would have been nice to know about the glass attachment. I hope there aren’t any special tools needed for that step. This may be the first repair I haven’t found multiple how to videos to help. So far the only thing I didn’t have was the suction cups, but a trip to Harbor Freight solved that for 2 suction cups for less than $5. I think I saw somewhere where someone said to lower the glass a couple inches, but I don’t believe that for this repair (I hope).

gregeast

In order to access the back of the clamps you will need to lower the window a bit. However, once the inner door panel is loose you don't need to roll the window down with the motor, you can just drop the door panel a bit.

No real special tool needed for this, other than a ratchet with small enough inside the door and the appropriate Torx bit (T25?).

Top Tip: Put the suction cup on the outside of the glass so that you don't scratch any window tint you may have on the inside.

Needsdecaf

Watching that video gives me anxiety, and I usually don't mind more complex projects....

Boomer80

I figured since I have the replacement actuator, I would just for my own satisfaction ask my Indy shop what they would charge for this job. His first statement was they won’t use customer parts. So, no problem I would just return it and get my money back, but then after he was done figuring out the cost, he told me it would be $700. Ouch! I just don’t see how this is realistic, for what should be less than 2 hours labor. I know I’ll probably do a lot of swearing and probably bust my knuckles, but I can do this……… I HOPE.

fourthirteen

I guess the closest thing to a special tool is the E5 Torx socket (not a Torx bit) that he uses at 4:08 in the video to loosen the clamps to release the glass. You have to lower the window about 5 or 6 inches to expose these two clamps. These are reverse thread so turn them clockwise to loosen. Then slide the glass up with your hands and put the suction cup on to hold it up. The plastic trim removal tools are also handy.

Boomer80

Really helpful! This is starting to make sense. I saw that those were reverse threaded and had made a mental note when I got there but didn’t get what they were actually doing.