Can you fix a bad stone chip repair?
#1
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Can you fix a bad stone chip repair?
The previous owner of my car apparently tried a "do it yourself repair" to a couple of small stone chips on the hood of my black ( 05 turbo S) car. The repair "bubbles" above the surface of the rest of the paint. Is there a reasonable fix for this or does the hood need to be repainted?
#2
Originally Posted by iman11348
The previous owner of my car apparently tried a "do it yourself repair" to a couple of small stone chips on the hood of my black ( 05 turbo S) car. The repair "bubbles" above the surface of the rest of the paint. Is there a reasonable fix for this or does the hood need to be repainted?
#3
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Extract from 'Wet-Sanding'-
1. Use Woolite® or a car shampoo on the chip repair for lubrication.
2. Use a very light pressure on the sanding block, lightly wiping the area often to check your progress
3. Next, using a Nikkens™ 3000 grit finishing paper and a Unigrit Sanding Block to reduce the high spot off of the chip repair, using the block in one direction only. Do not use a circular motion (it will produce swirls) or a back and forth motion and ensure the sanding block is always wet
4. Keep the area well lubricated with water and shampoo; otherwise it will dull the paint. Once the surface appears level, use a block to squeegee off the excess water / slush (3M™ Wetordry™ Rubber Squeegee, P/N 05517, 2 ¾-inch x 4 ¼-inch) If the water you are using has a high mineral content, don't let it dry on the car, as it could leave spots which may bleed through the new paint.
5. Dry the surface with a clean towel and inspect with your fingertips.
6. If you can feel a high spot, repeat the sanding process.
7. If done correctly, you will hardly notice the repair.
8. A good car polish (Menzerna Intensive Polish or Menzerna Final Polish II ) will restore the paints lustre
9. Finally apply wax/sealant protection
1. Use Woolite® or a car shampoo on the chip repair for lubrication.
2. Use a very light pressure on the sanding block, lightly wiping the area often to check your progress
3. Next, using a Nikkens™ 3000 grit finishing paper and a Unigrit Sanding Block to reduce the high spot off of the chip repair, using the block in one direction only. Do not use a circular motion (it will produce swirls) or a back and forth motion and ensure the sanding block is always wet
4. Keep the area well lubricated with water and shampoo; otherwise it will dull the paint. Once the surface appears level, use a block to squeegee off the excess water / slush (3M™ Wetordry™ Rubber Squeegee, P/N 05517, 2 ¾-inch x 4 ¼-inch) If the water you are using has a high mineral content, don't let it dry on the car, as it could leave spots which may bleed through the new paint.
5. Dry the surface with a clean towel and inspect with your fingertips.
6. If you can feel a high spot, repeat the sanding process.
7. If done correctly, you will hardly notice the repair.
8. A good car polish (Menzerna Intensive Polish or Menzerna Final Polish II ) will restore the paints lustre
9. Finally apply wax/sealant protection
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Thanks for the info. I assume you can buy the items mentioned above at an auto parts store? Do I need to and if so, what do I use to "mask" the paint close to these spots so that I don't damage it
#5
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Masking Tape :
Mask-off around windows, badges, and door handles and any bodywork vinyl trim, using 3M's Scotch® Safe-Release TM Painters' Masking Tape. The main reason tape doesn't hold is because of oils or dressings on trim areas; clean areas prior to the application of masking tape.
This tape removes cleanly from a paint film or glass surface without adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to direct sunlight. Remove by trying to keep to a somewhat horizontal plane don’t pull directly upwards. It is a medium adhesion tape with a flexible crepe backing allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces.
Mask-off around windows, badges, and door handles and any bodywork vinyl trim, using 3M's Scotch® Safe-Release TM Painters' Masking Tape. The main reason tape doesn't hold is because of oils or dressings on trim areas; clean areas prior to the application of masking tape.
This tape removes cleanly from a paint film or glass surface without adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to direct sunlight. Remove by trying to keep to a somewhat horizontal plane don’t pull directly upwards. It is a medium adhesion tape with a flexible crepe backing allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces.
#6
If not too large you can do the ol razor blade scrape.
Take a brand new razor blade and scrape it across the top portion of the excess paint blob. Again if not too large you can level the blob off this way then lightly wet sand with 3000 grit paper.
Your best bet is to buy some Meguiars sanding blocks but most likely you won't find these at any stores. Order some from the Meguiars website. Soak the blocks in water and car soap for at least 45 minutes.
We do this type of repair all the time and it takes us about 15 minutes.
Anthony
Take a brand new razor blade and scrape it across the top portion of the excess paint blob. Again if not too large you can level the blob off this way then lightly wet sand with 3000 grit paper.
Your best bet is to buy some Meguiars sanding blocks but most likely you won't find these at any stores. Order some from the Meguiars website. Soak the blocks in water and car soap for at least 45 minutes.
We do this type of repair all the time and it takes us about 15 minutes.
Anthony
#7
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
Extract from 'Wet-Sanding'-
1. Use Woolite® or a car shampoo on the chip repair for lubrication.
2. Use a very light pressure on the sanding block, lightly wiping the area often to check your progress
3. Next, using a Nikkens™ 3000 grit finishing paper and a Unigrit Sanding Block to reduce the high spot off of the chip repair, using the block in one direction only. Do not use a circular motion (it will produce swirls) or a back and forth motion and ensure the sanding block is always wet
4. Keep the area well lubricated with water and shampoo; otherwise it will dull the paint. Once the surface appears level, use a block to squeegee off the excess water / slush (3M™ Wetordry™ Rubber Squeegee, P/N 05517, 2 ¾-inch x 4 ¼-inch) If the water you are using has a high mineral content, don't let it dry on the car, as it could leave spots which may bleed through the new paint.
5. Dry the surface with a clean towel and inspect with your fingertips.
6. If you can feel a high spot, repeat the sanding process.
7. If done correctly, you will hardly notice the repair.
8. A good car polish (Menzerna Intensive Polish or Menzerna Final Polish II ) will restore the paints lustre
9. Finally apply wax/sealant protection
1. Use Woolite® or a car shampoo on the chip repair for lubrication.
2. Use a very light pressure on the sanding block, lightly wiping the area often to check your progress
3. Next, using a Nikkens™ 3000 grit finishing paper and a Unigrit Sanding Block to reduce the high spot off of the chip repair, using the block in one direction only. Do not use a circular motion (it will produce swirls) or a back and forth motion and ensure the sanding block is always wet
4. Keep the area well lubricated with water and shampoo; otherwise it will dull the paint. Once the surface appears level, use a block to squeegee off the excess water / slush (3M™ Wetordry™ Rubber Squeegee, P/N 05517, 2 ¾-inch x 4 ¼-inch) If the water you are using has a high mineral content, don't let it dry on the car, as it could leave spots which may bleed through the new paint.
5. Dry the surface with a clean towel and inspect with your fingertips.
6. If you can feel a high spot, repeat the sanding process.
7. If done correctly, you will hardly notice the repair.
8. A good car polish (Menzerna Intensive Polish or Menzerna Final Polish II ) will restore the paints lustre
9. Finally apply wax/sealant protection
And remember with the big yellow calipers and carbon fiber rotors I bet no one has noticed those tiny marks but you!
Good luck, beautiful and awesome car!!
tom
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Because I had trouble finding 3000 grit sandpaper, I did more research and checked with some local places. They all wanted to re paint my hood.
I found this Langka (http://www.autogeek.net/langka.html) stuff at Autogeek and decided to try it. It worked! The repair is not perfect but the paint blobs are gone and you really have to look hard to see the repairs.
I found this Langka (http://www.autogeek.net/langka.html) stuff at Autogeek and decided to try it. It worked! The repair is not perfect but the paint blobs are gone and you really have to look hard to see the repairs.
#10
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iman, I saw your car before the repair so I'll check it out and see how ya did!!
Next, I would consider a 3M clear bra before your next chip!!
Reeves for about $500. Have one on my car look at it and see what you think, car will be there tomorrow!
Next, I would consider a 3M clear bra before your next chip!!
Reeves for about $500. Have one on my car look at it and see what you think, car will be there tomorrow!
#11
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tkerrmd,
What did you think? Could you see or feel the repaired spots?
The Langka process is tempting because it looks quicker than the sanding & rubbing compond route. It also seems safer since you probably won't damage the original paint.
Art
What did you think? Could you see or feel the repaired spots?
The Langka process is tempting because it looks quicker than the sanding & rubbing compond route. It also seems safer since you probably won't damage the original paint.
Art
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2nd vote for Langka. Be careful though, it has the ability to remove surrounding paint as well if you're not careful. Just follow the instructions and it will smooth out the bubbles. Also note that it is critical to use a smooth, tight weave cloth to create a smooth paint surface.
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I bought a black '07 MB e63 amg w/ 6800 demo miles about 5 months ago. It was the owner of the MB dealership's car for 6 months. It was in perfect shape except for one little paint blob from a scratch repair on the passenger rear door above the handle. I used the Langka stuff on it and it reduced the repair to un-noticeable. I've since used it on a small hood chip that I filled in with paint and it worked great. Again, un-noticeable. I don't know about it's effectiveness for a color other than black, but it worked great for me. Highly recommended.
edit: Oops, I just looked at the kit I used and it is Dr Colorchip not Langka. So I have to adjust my recommendation to Dr Colorchip, since I've not used Langka. Although, having reviewed both of their websites I'd have to conclude that they are substantially similar in concept and practice.
edit: Oops, I just looked at the kit I used and it is Dr Colorchip not Langka. So I have to adjust my recommendation to Dr Colorchip, since I've not used Langka. Although, having reviewed both of their websites I'd have to conclude that they are substantially similar in concept and practice.
Last edited by Paladin; 12-14-2007 at 08:18 AM.