ir_fuel

When that goes on he knows his bank account will soon be the same color

ir_fuel

Interesting!

Did you install this on your Porsche? Is it an easy install (as in, plug and play) or does it require cutting cables and soldering?

Mahler9th

The amber warning light isn't connected to anything. It was a placeholder for an oil temp warning in my last dash set up, but I never used it. When I made the mockup Gdash panel I just kept it. The final carbon fiber panel will probably not use it. The blue alternator light has two functions. Its resistance is necessary for the 911 charging circuit. And it also provides a warning if the charging voltage drops low enough which as 911 folks know can mean a charging problem or a charging problem based on a belt situation. I will probably keep the blue light for this purpose even though it will be redundant with the AIM alarm I will set up.

The large oil pressure warning light is a placebo-- my engine builder tells me that many/most failure modes will occur so fast that by the time the oil pressure drops to the switch warning threshold, it will already be too late. The light went in to help my co-driver (wife) feel more comfortable. It will probably not make the final cut when I decide on my final dash configuration.

Mahler9th

I created two custom sensors for the brake on/off switch. This is a 0 or ~+12 VDC signal that comes through the mechanical brake light switch. So when the lights go on, the same voltage goes to the EVO4.

For years I have run a red brake light in the video camera FOV along with a green WOT light, which is wired directly to a microswitch mounted on the throttle body. Pretty effective data logging system for determining location of brake application and achievement of WOT when reviewing video.

Not sure which of the custom sensors I will use for logging brake on/off. I think the two-point LUT should work fine, but I am a logging newbie.

Since brake pressure costs about $200 to implement, I will hold off until I can see a clear benefit compared to brake on/off. Again, this is for my application-- others may have different needs.

Mahler9th

Ahh for the sake of completeness I should note that the picture of my dash also shows how I mounted a USB jack for EVO4 I/O. This is just a cheap panel mount USB connector cable with gender bender-- I think all of $15-20. You can see it just past the two switches to the left of the factory GT3 RSR quick release.

linzman

I want this. More details please.

Caddell

Mahler9th,

I might be missing something but why even create the custom sensor? You can gather and store the actual signal and also create an 'event' that triggers a LED (or multiple LED's) on the Gdash at anything greater than 2.0 volts or whatever value you choose.

ProCoach

Roger, wouldn't you want to make a custom sensor so you could actuate a "Brake Switch" channel to illuminate the red bar on the SmartyCam HD (to come)?

Sure, you could make a logged input to trigger an alarm, but the Smarty wouldn't be able to assign it to an icon on the video.

Matt Romanowski

For the USB, AiM makes a great weatherproof connecter. It ships with all MXL2, MXS, and MXG. It's available separately for a reasonable price too.

Mahler9th

LIFO

I know how to learn and teach by noting where brake initiation occurs.

Since I bought an EVO4/GDASH and have a channel available, I want to log braking events to perhaps later display on video using Race Render or similar. May even look at the "squiggly line" data in RS2.

I have easy access to the brake light signal in my custom wired 911 race car. It is nominally +12 VDC, and comes through a stock 911 mechanical switch. If I understand the guidance I have received from experts, I need to set up a custom sensor in RS so that when the "on" signal hits the EVO4, it interprets that signal as 5 volts. If I have that wrong, it is despite the guidance I have received.

I am not sure the on voltage will always be +12 VDC so I want the brake on sigal that is logged to be anything over 1 volt or so in case there is some kind of noise or sampling error which must be taken into account.

I am keeping my "brakes on" dash light which is also wired to my mechanical switch. It is in the camera FOV so I can see brake initiation on an ongoing basis without messing with squiggly lines or other forms of data analysis.

Mahler9th

For the USB panel mounted data I/O I bought these items:


http://www.cablestogo.com/product/28...a-female-cable

and

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_i...FcZbfgodwe4Jlw

Regarding the latter, I mistakenly said gender bender in my earlier post. What I needed and bought was a female-to-female coupler.

These items were inexpensive and easy to install.

Mahler9th

Don't need weatherproof USB I/O here in Norcal.

If I later decide I want to protect the I/O, I can always use a piece of electrical tape. More budget for tires and race fuel.

linzman

That goes with the Evo4? I know there's a can extension cable,

ProCoach

Nope, not for the EVO4. The cable that comes with the MXL2, MXS and MXG has a 719 plastic connector on the end of it. The earlier (better) and larger USB bulkhead connector did, too.

Use Mike's setup.

Or this:
Plus this:

mglobe

Sorry, I should have provided more info to make my post actually useful. :-(. I installed it in my Miata. I've not researched how to do it in a Porsche. But having a calibrated fuel level and a warning light is great if you can make it work.