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For Sale: 1986 944 Turbo F/S DE/Track/Street Setup
06-20-2010, 12:27 PM
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1986 944 Turbo F/S DE/Track/Street Setup
1986 944 Turbo (951) Track/HPDE Car
Color: Garnett Red Metallic
Miles: 185k on the body, about 15-20k on most everything else, lol.
Contact: 913.486.3805 or dockarl at wilen.us
Price: $12k Serious inquires only please.
Clear title in hand.
Location: Kansas City
If you look through my blog link in my signature, you can see more pictures over the last year of the car during maintenance. (click older posts at the bottom of the page).
Ok, It has been a really hard decision, but I am putting my track toy up for sale to move on to the next project. I have owned this car for about 6 years and bought it with about 140k miles IIRC and it was 100% stock. Bought it in August (ish) of 2004. Since then it has undergone a lot of changes as noted below. The car use to be my daily driver, then I slowly transformed it into a track car (road course, not drag strip). It has been a REALLY hard decision letting it go, but I feel I have done all I want to do personally with a 944 and am ready to expand into something else. Obviously I have personally maintained the car as a professional Porsche wrench.
About the car:
This car was built to be a High Performance Driver’s Education Track car. I am a nationally certified Porsche Club of America Instructor, and it has seen quite a bit of track time over the last couple of years. It is NOT a show car, it is a driver. I do drive the car on the street a couple times a week, and it is a blast to drive, but the suspension is very stiff as you will see below, so you find yourself trying to avoid all the potholes, cracks in the road, small babies, politicians, etc. One could put in lighter springs if they wanted to use it around town daily. For mostly street driving with some DE’s, I would suggest a 300lb front spring and a 400lb rear spring. Let me stress while it has been a track toy, it has never been abused. No clutch drops, missed shifts, taking it to redline on the track, etc.
I built this car to compete with the higher end cars on the track and stay on a budget at the same time. When I was the lead tech/shop manager at Imagine Auto, I use to call this our customer incentive car. When it walked away from new 911’s at the track on the weekend, customers always called in on Monday to order go fast parts for their cars. They couldn’t have a 944 passing them
Almost everything non-essential has been removed from the car. There is no cruise control, no A/C, no power steering, etc. I wanted a car that was easy to work on when it mattered…..at the track. Anything that was in the way and wasn’t necessary, was removed. It really is down to the basics. In doing so, the car became very lightweight without the use of carbon fiber, fiberglass, or lexan.
The car weighs about 2800lbs with the full cage in, and a full tank of gas. Horsepower is a conservative 285 to the rear wheels. Drop the front hoops out and you are mid 2700’s.
Future Maintenance:
--The car doesn’t need anything except to be driven. This is a car that I take to the track, and swap tires between sessions and that is about the extent of the work you ever have to do at the track. I’ve always been so busy maintaining customer cars at the track that my requirement was to have a personal car I didn’t need to touch at the track. Other people are scrambling trying to fix various issues on their cars, and this car just gets driven, inspected, and driven some more.
--Oil changes and brake fluid flush between DE events have always been done and I recommend continuing to do so. Motul 15w-50 synthetic oil, and Motul 600 or ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid.
--Change gear lube annually. Every transaxle expert I have talked with has given me this recommendation to ensure longevity of a transaxle. Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic
--Repack and inspect the front wheel bearings annually. Redline or Lucas wheel bearing grease.
--I change timing and balance shaft belts every 3 years or 30k miles whichever comes first. The 3 years always comes first. Since the rollers and water pump are new, over the next 6 years or so, it will only need belts.
--Re-torque the BBS Wheel bolts (10mm and 8mm 12 point sockets) annually. Torque is 20ft/lbs.
--If you are going to run the car in the heat of the summer, I would add a second oil cooler. I do not run the car in July/August in Kansas city because it is just too hot IMHO....both for the car and the driver. We do run up to RA in July, but the temps are usually in the 70's to low 80's.
Most of the parts on the car have less than 15k miles on them with the exception of the body
Engine: 2.5L stock internals:
--Engine has about 2500 miles on it since I rebuilt it last year. I started with a bare 1986 turbo block, and replaced everything but the crankshaft, pistons, rods, and balance shafts. Engine was completely refreshed with new rings, bearings, seals, NEW not rebuilt water pump, belts rollers, sensors, etc. I re-tensioned the timing and balance shaft belt this spring. Motor probably has 50/50 track/street miles on it. All vacuum lines replaced. Running Motul 15w-50 synthetic oil.
--Vitesse Mass Air Flow with Vitesse Chip Board and Vitesse SMT6 piggyback for tuning (old dell laptop included to tune with…needs a new battery though, I just run it off the cords with an inverter). One of Vitesse’s early MAF systems. The chipset was mapped for a stage II, i have it tuned for the stock turbo.
--HKS EVC IV electronic boost controller. Currently set at .9 bar lowest setting to 1.1 bar high setting
--Fabspeed 3” full stainless steel exhaust (no cat) from the downpipe back
--Fabspeed S/S downpipe. This car was the testbed for the development of the Fabspeed downpipe (short piece that bolts to the turbo hot housing).
--Tial 38mm wastegate
--55lb injectors
--Custom Engineered Performance billet aluminum fuel rail and fuel lines.
--3 bar fuel pressure regulator with billet saddle adapter
--Imagine Auto A/C delete bracket: Replacement belt is a Contitech 6pk-720
--Stock K26/6 turbo
--944 S2 transaxle non-LSD (shorter gearing really wakes the car up). 70k miles on the tranny, and I just opened it up and put in new pinion bearings as part of my final maintenance. I inspected the transaxle and it is in great shape as it should be. Running Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear lube.
--Odyssey Battery PC925. Midsized lightweight battery with plenty of cranking amps for street use.
--Custom made battery cables
--Clutch: Modified sachs pressure plate with a SPEC 930 disc. 10k miles on the clutch. Inspected at the final maintenance and still looks great.
--New Lindsey Racing reference sensor harness
--New Lindsey Racing fuel injector harness.
--Most everything has been replaced recently including radiator, hoses, etc. Under 10k miles on the entire cooling system.
--Hot lap timer
--3 piece crossmember
--Exhaust crossover pipe is the later 2 piece (easier clutch changes)
--Clutch master and slave cylinder have about 15k miles on them.
--Motor mounts have about 10k miles on them.
--Evolution Motorsports billet diverter valve
--Note: The car does still retain the heat function/climate control in the cabin. Early and late season in the midwest can get a bit chilly in the mornings, so I like to be warm in the cabin if need be
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
--BBS LM 17x8 and 17x9 wheels wrapped in Summitomo HTRZIII’s (early offset, no spacers)
--Porsche Phone Dials (white) 16x7 and 16x8 track wheels
--Oddball selection of kumho victoracers and hoosiers go with it (used)
--Charlie Arms (billet front control arms). Highly coveted aftermarket control arms.
--M030 caster blocks
--Upgraded 1987 944 turbo spindles, hubs, and brake rotors retaining early offset for strength (the spindles, not the offset). The 86 turbo spindles are weak and do not hold up well to track use so they were removed. This also makes for easier brake rotor changes.
--Weltmeister 28mm front and 22mm rear fully adjustable sway bars
--Rear torsion carrier aluminum solid bushings
--Coilover conversions in the front with 500lb spring rate (height fully adjustable). Bilstein HD inserts in modified 83 housings and ground control coilover conversion setup.
--Rear torsion bars removed.
--Front camber plates
--Koni Coilover rear shocks with 650lb spring rate (height fully adjustable)
--Racer’s Edge lower shock mount bolts (rear)
--Shock mount tie downs.
--Stock brake calipers with EBC yellow pads
--Stainless steel brake lines at all 4 corners.
--968 brake cooling ducts
--Manual steering rack. I rebuilt the rack about 10k miles ago. I took the last NEW manual intermediate steering shaft from Porsche in Germany when I went through everything. It also got new inner/outer tie rod assemblies.
--5/33 brake bias valve
Body/Interior/Exterior:
--Paint: I re-sprayed the front end about 4 years ago and didn’t get enough flex into the paint, so the rock chips/cracks and track debris has taken a toll on the front end. It needs to be sanded down again and re-sprayed if you are into cosmetics. The rest of the paint isn’t in bad shape. Heartland Park is our local track it is seems over the last year it has become really dirty, and everyone has been taking rock chips.
--CRP V3 front splitter with bumper supports.
--Custom rear bumper: Rear bumperettes have been deleted and the bumper sucked in closer to the body. Holes were tig welded shut.
--Rear wiper delete.
--968 Style Mirrors (full manual) (they need a respray as well)
--968 Style 3 spoke Steering Wheel
--GT3 Reproduction Carbon Fiber Seats (these were next on my list to upgrade to Sparcos. They are fine around town for a skinny guy, but should be upgraded for track).
--Safety Devices Full Bolt in Roll Cage: The rear hoop section is welded in and not removable. I had the front section left bolt in, so the front bars could be removed easily for around town driving. Front section has the proper mounting plates welded to the chassis. Cage was installed by KC Raceware.
--Sparco 5 point harness driver
--Simpson 6 point harness passenger
--968 Club Sport Center Console
--VDO Boost Gauge
--Front clear turn signals
--KLR Strut Brace
--Billet Aluminum Shifter
--RS Door Panels
--Manual Sunroof
--Rear tow point
Additional:
I also have a pile of used tires listed above, good used brake rotors, various used parts (engine parts, suspension parts, starters, alternators, spare coilover springs, and various random stuff) from other 86 944 turbos that go with the car. You get it all….bring a truck…a big one. If you don’t want the stuff, you can throw it away.
I will be running the car next up at Road America in Mid July for the Nordstern region DE.
Color: Garnett Red Metallic
Miles: 185k on the body, about 15-20k on most everything else, lol.
Contact: 913.486.3805 or dockarl at wilen.us
Price: $12k Serious inquires only please.
Clear title in hand.
Location: Kansas City
If you look through my blog link in my signature, you can see more pictures over the last year of the car during maintenance. (click older posts at the bottom of the page).
Ok, It has been a really hard decision, but I am putting my track toy up for sale to move on to the next project. I have owned this car for about 6 years and bought it with about 140k miles IIRC and it was 100% stock. Bought it in August (ish) of 2004. Since then it has undergone a lot of changes as noted below. The car use to be my daily driver, then I slowly transformed it into a track car (road course, not drag strip). It has been a REALLY hard decision letting it go, but I feel I have done all I want to do personally with a 944 and am ready to expand into something else. Obviously I have personally maintained the car as a professional Porsche wrench.
About the car:
This car was built to be a High Performance Driver’s Education Track car. I am a nationally certified Porsche Club of America Instructor, and it has seen quite a bit of track time over the last couple of years. It is NOT a show car, it is a driver. I do drive the car on the street a couple times a week, and it is a blast to drive, but the suspension is very stiff as you will see below, so you find yourself trying to avoid all the potholes, cracks in the road, small babies, politicians, etc. One could put in lighter springs if they wanted to use it around town daily. For mostly street driving with some DE’s, I would suggest a 300lb front spring and a 400lb rear spring. Let me stress while it has been a track toy, it has never been abused. No clutch drops, missed shifts, taking it to redline on the track, etc.
I built this car to compete with the higher end cars on the track and stay on a budget at the same time. When I was the lead tech/shop manager at Imagine Auto, I use to call this our customer incentive car. When it walked away from new 911’s at the track on the weekend, customers always called in on Monday to order go fast parts for their cars. They couldn’t have a 944 passing them
Almost everything non-essential has been removed from the car. There is no cruise control, no A/C, no power steering, etc. I wanted a car that was easy to work on when it mattered…..at the track. Anything that was in the way and wasn’t necessary, was removed. It really is down to the basics. In doing so, the car became very lightweight without the use of carbon fiber, fiberglass, or lexan.
The car weighs about 2800lbs with the full cage in, and a full tank of gas. Horsepower is a conservative 285 to the rear wheels. Drop the front hoops out and you are mid 2700’s.
Future Maintenance:
--The car doesn’t need anything except to be driven. This is a car that I take to the track, and swap tires between sessions and that is about the extent of the work you ever have to do at the track. I’ve always been so busy maintaining customer cars at the track that my requirement was to have a personal car I didn’t need to touch at the track. Other people are scrambling trying to fix various issues on their cars, and this car just gets driven, inspected, and driven some more.
--Oil changes and brake fluid flush between DE events have always been done and I recommend continuing to do so. Motul 15w-50 synthetic oil, and Motul 600 or ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid.
--Change gear lube annually. Every transaxle expert I have talked with has given me this recommendation to ensure longevity of a transaxle. Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic
--Repack and inspect the front wheel bearings annually. Redline or Lucas wheel bearing grease.
--I change timing and balance shaft belts every 3 years or 30k miles whichever comes first. The 3 years always comes first. Since the rollers and water pump are new, over the next 6 years or so, it will only need belts.
--Re-torque the BBS Wheel bolts (10mm and 8mm 12 point sockets) annually. Torque is 20ft/lbs.
--If you are going to run the car in the heat of the summer, I would add a second oil cooler. I do not run the car in July/August in Kansas city because it is just too hot IMHO....both for the car and the driver. We do run up to RA in July, but the temps are usually in the 70's to low 80's.
Most of the parts on the car have less than 15k miles on them with the exception of the body
Engine: 2.5L stock internals:
--Engine has about 2500 miles on it since I rebuilt it last year. I started with a bare 1986 turbo block, and replaced everything but the crankshaft, pistons, rods, and balance shafts. Engine was completely refreshed with new rings, bearings, seals, NEW not rebuilt water pump, belts rollers, sensors, etc. I re-tensioned the timing and balance shaft belt this spring. Motor probably has 50/50 track/street miles on it. All vacuum lines replaced. Running Motul 15w-50 synthetic oil.
--Vitesse Mass Air Flow with Vitesse Chip Board and Vitesse SMT6 piggyback for tuning (old dell laptop included to tune with…needs a new battery though, I just run it off the cords with an inverter). One of Vitesse’s early MAF systems. The chipset was mapped for a stage II, i have it tuned for the stock turbo.
--HKS EVC IV electronic boost controller. Currently set at .9 bar lowest setting to 1.1 bar high setting
--Fabspeed 3” full stainless steel exhaust (no cat) from the downpipe back
--Fabspeed S/S downpipe. This car was the testbed for the development of the Fabspeed downpipe (short piece that bolts to the turbo hot housing).
--Tial 38mm wastegate
--55lb injectors
--Custom Engineered Performance billet aluminum fuel rail and fuel lines.
--3 bar fuel pressure regulator with billet saddle adapter
--Imagine Auto A/C delete bracket: Replacement belt is a Contitech 6pk-720
--Stock K26/6 turbo
--944 S2 transaxle non-LSD (shorter gearing really wakes the car up). 70k miles on the tranny, and I just opened it up and put in new pinion bearings as part of my final maintenance. I inspected the transaxle and it is in great shape as it should be. Running Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear lube.
--Odyssey Battery PC925. Midsized lightweight battery with plenty of cranking amps for street use.
--Custom made battery cables
--Clutch: Modified sachs pressure plate with a SPEC 930 disc. 10k miles on the clutch. Inspected at the final maintenance and still looks great.
--New Lindsey Racing reference sensor harness
--New Lindsey Racing fuel injector harness.
--Most everything has been replaced recently including radiator, hoses, etc. Under 10k miles on the entire cooling system.
--Hot lap timer
--3 piece crossmember
--Exhaust crossover pipe is the later 2 piece (easier clutch changes)
--Clutch master and slave cylinder have about 15k miles on them.
--Motor mounts have about 10k miles on them.
--Evolution Motorsports billet diverter valve
--Note: The car does still retain the heat function/climate control in the cabin. Early and late season in the midwest can get a bit chilly in the mornings, so I like to be warm in the cabin if need be
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
--BBS LM 17x8 and 17x9 wheels wrapped in Summitomo HTRZIII’s (early offset, no spacers)
--Porsche Phone Dials (white) 16x7 and 16x8 track wheels
--Oddball selection of kumho victoracers and hoosiers go with it (used)
--Charlie Arms (billet front control arms). Highly coveted aftermarket control arms.
--M030 caster blocks
--Upgraded 1987 944 turbo spindles, hubs, and brake rotors retaining early offset for strength (the spindles, not the offset). The 86 turbo spindles are weak and do not hold up well to track use so they were removed. This also makes for easier brake rotor changes.
--Weltmeister 28mm front and 22mm rear fully adjustable sway bars
--Rear torsion carrier aluminum solid bushings
--Coilover conversions in the front with 500lb spring rate (height fully adjustable). Bilstein HD inserts in modified 83 housings and ground control coilover conversion setup.
--Rear torsion bars removed.
--Front camber plates
--Koni Coilover rear shocks with 650lb spring rate (height fully adjustable)
--Racer’s Edge lower shock mount bolts (rear)
--Shock mount tie downs.
--Stock brake calipers with EBC yellow pads
--Stainless steel brake lines at all 4 corners.
--968 brake cooling ducts
--Manual steering rack. I rebuilt the rack about 10k miles ago. I took the last NEW manual intermediate steering shaft from Porsche in Germany when I went through everything. It also got new inner/outer tie rod assemblies.
--5/33 brake bias valve
Body/Interior/Exterior:
--Paint: I re-sprayed the front end about 4 years ago and didn’t get enough flex into the paint, so the rock chips/cracks and track debris has taken a toll on the front end. It needs to be sanded down again and re-sprayed if you are into cosmetics. The rest of the paint isn’t in bad shape. Heartland Park is our local track it is seems over the last year it has become really dirty, and everyone has been taking rock chips.
--CRP V3 front splitter with bumper supports.
--Custom rear bumper: Rear bumperettes have been deleted and the bumper sucked in closer to the body. Holes were tig welded shut.
--Rear wiper delete.
--968 Style Mirrors (full manual) (they need a respray as well)
--968 Style 3 spoke Steering Wheel
--GT3 Reproduction Carbon Fiber Seats (these were next on my list to upgrade to Sparcos. They are fine around town for a skinny guy, but should be upgraded for track).
--Safety Devices Full Bolt in Roll Cage: The rear hoop section is welded in and not removable. I had the front section left bolt in, so the front bars could be removed easily for around town driving. Front section has the proper mounting plates welded to the chassis. Cage was installed by KC Raceware.
--Sparco 5 point harness driver
--Simpson 6 point harness passenger
--968 Club Sport Center Console
--VDO Boost Gauge
--Front clear turn signals
--KLR Strut Brace
--Billet Aluminum Shifter
--RS Door Panels
--Manual Sunroof
--Rear tow point
Additional:
I also have a pile of used tires listed above, good used brake rotors, various used parts (engine parts, suspension parts, starters, alternators, spare coilover springs, and various random stuff) from other 86 944 turbos that go with the car. You get it all….bring a truck…a big one. If you don’t want the stuff, you can throw it away.
I will be running the car next up at Road America in Mid July for the Nordstern region DE.
Last edited by PorscheDoc; 06-24-2010 at 06:08 PM.
06-21-2010, 04:55 PM
#6
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You wouldn't believe how cool this car was until you saw it. If you are looking for a turn key track toy, this is the car for you. As stated in Karl's post, dead reliable, quick, well sorted, and one of the best maintained track cars around-if not the best.
06-21-2010, 06:55 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
I'd like to find a way to spoil the sale of this for the seller but I can't 
...it's in top condition, has been set up by a good driver who knows how the thing should handle and truely does compete with cars on the track 10 times the cost of this. It's as turn-key as you can get.
...it's in top condition, has been set up by a good driver who knows how the thing should handle and truely does compete with cars on the track 10 times the cost of this. It's as turn-key as you can get.
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06-21-2010, 07:06 PM
#8
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I'd like to find a way to spoil the sale of this for the seller but I can't ...it's in top condition, has been set up by a good driver who knows how the thing should handle and truely does compete with cars on the track 10 times the cost of this. It's as turn-key as you can get.
...it's in top condition, has been set up by a good driver who knows how the thing should handle and truely does compete with cars on the track 10 times the cost of this. It's as turn-key as you can get.
Why mess around with those 150hp spec cars........LOLThe new car will take getting use to. It is about as fat and heavy as Ruby