Header install- spyder
#1
Official Wednesday AM Red Bull F1 test driver
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Header install- spyder
Got cat-less headers (with the little Fabspeed "cats") and am going to install after the holiday rush is over. Thinking of doing the spark plugs while I'm there as access will be easier with headers off. Watched a couple videos and with my lift hopefully isn't too bad. No codes or anything but figured the car is over 4 years old, but only has 13K miles. New plugs overkill? Since I'm on a roll, will probably F/U with a Softronic tune
Anyone done this recently and have any tips, or warnings??
Anyone done this recently and have any tips, or warnings??
#5
Drifting
I debated for awhile but finally decided to have my local shop do the header install and Softronic. I don’t have a lift so it would have been me lying on concrete under a jackstands-supported car, and I decided life’s too short.
That said, I had them do the plugs while in there. It only makes sense.
That said, I had them do the plugs while in there. It only makes sense.
The following users liked this post:
kaaayelll (12-15-2021)
#6
Rennlist Member
Be carful reinstalling the header bolts. It is easy to cross thread them going into the aluminum block resulting in a major headache. Thread them in by hand as far as you can, feeling for any resistance. Then torque them to the proper spec. Better yet, install header studs. They make the job much easier and are not as prone to loosening and fall out over time.
The following users liked this post:
chaos2984 (12-15-2021)
#7
Be carful reinstalling the header bolts. It is easy to cross thread them going into the aluminum block resulting in a major headache. Thread them in by hand as far as you can, feeling for any resistance. Then torque them to the proper spec. Better yet, install header studs. They make the job much easier and are not as prone to loosening and fall out over time.
This.
I tried to swap OEM exhaust headers for CarGraphics sport headers on a 981 GTS. I knew the aluminum block was going to be touchy when it came time to put the bolts back in, was very careful to start threading by hand. Managed to get them all back in properly except one. Wasn't cross threaded too badly so that my indy could fix the threads and complete the install. When I traded the GTS in for a Spyder, I had my indy do the header swap.
Doing the plugs while the headers are off will make the job much easier. Maintenance recommendation is for 4 years or 30K miles so I'd go ahead and do it. Check the coils too and if any cracks or excessive wear, replace them too.
Some of the bolts will require combinations of ratchet extensions, universal joints, etc. to reach. IIRC, torque spec is something like 15-20 ft-lbs so don't go all gorilla on the bolts when you tighten them.
The following users liked this post:
Last_935 (12-16-2021)
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: On a pygmy pony over by the dental floss bush
Posts: 3,286
Received 607 Likes
on
416 Posts
I used these on my 981 with header install. Originally used Stage 8 bolts but after a couple of swaps decided to go with these. Jewel-like in quality and the price to go with it.
#9
+1 on studs / nuts. You eliminate the crossthread issue once they are installed - so much better than the stock bolts. If you are in a state that has stringent enough emissions testing and have to remove the headers and replace with stock every 2 years (like I do in Illinois) you will be glad you did studs!
#10
I installed aFe sport headers on my 981CS which should be similar to your Spyder. I changed spark plugs the first time with the OEM headers on and the second time when I was installing my headers and you definitely should change your plugs while you are installing the new headers as it is SO much easier. I also upgraded my coils to the latest version 9A160210407 that have the Borg Warner on the coil body and Beru on the rubber boot. The previous coils have the 05 or 06 last digits in the part number and Beru on the coil body. An older thread from some track rats felt that the latest Borg Warner 07 coils were less prone to failure on cars that were tracked especially with headers. You might also consider installing the Ignition Coil Heat Shield Upgrade that is used on the 911.1 but will work on the 981.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PK981SHIELDS.html
A set of 3/8" wobble extensions will make tightening the header bolts as well as future spark plugs a lot easier.
Jim
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PK981SHIELDS.html
A set of 3/8" wobble extensions will make tightening the header bolts as well as future spark plugs a lot easier.
Jim
#11
Official Wednesday AM Red Bull F1 test driver
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Those studs do look like a good idea. I'm used to that arrangement on the type 4 heads on my 914's though I hate the way they are recessed. I had to install a time-sert on one of those that was stripped and that was a major PITA! Definitely want to avoid that on the spyder!!
Not sure about the heat shields as there should be less heat without cats... will think about that. I think rennline also makes those shields.
Not sure about the heat shields as there should be less heat without cats... will think about that. I think rennline also makes those shields.
#12
I would just do the spark plugs. They are supper easy to do while the headers are off. I did mine this way. Yes 13k miles are overkill. I did mine at 5K. it only cost me about 90 for the plugs. The ones that came out were fine. Its a wearable item that wears over usage. Honestly the real reason to change them/ remove them and apply anti seize to them so they don't potentially seize in the head. But if your going to take them out and apply anti seize to the threads is it worth it then to not just change them. I kept my old ones as spares if i need one in a pinch.
#13
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: On a pygmy pony over by the dental floss bush
Posts: 3,286
Received 607 Likes
on
416 Posts
Those studs do look like a good idea. I'm used to that arrangement on the type 4 heads on my 914's though I hate the way they are recessed. I had to install a time-sert on one of those that was stripped and that was a major PITA! Definitely want to avoid that on the spyder!!
Not sure about the heat shields as there should be less heat without cats... will think about that. I think rennline also makes those shields.
Not sure about the heat shields as there should be less heat without cats... will think about that. I think rennline also makes those shields.
#14
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: On a pygmy pony over by the dental floss bush
Posts: 3,286
Received 607 Likes
on
416 Posts
Those studs do look like a good idea. I'm used to that arrangement on the type 4 heads on my 914's though I hate the way they are recessed. I had to install a time-sert on one of those that was stripped and that was a major PITA! Definitely want to avoid that on the spyder!!
Not sure about the heat shields as there should be less heat without cats... will think about that. I think rennline also makes those shields.
Not sure about the heat shields as there should be less heat without cats... will think about that. I think rennline also makes those shields.
#15
I would just do the spark plugs. They are supper easy to do while the headers are off. I did mine this way. Yes 13k miles are overkill. I did mine at 5K. it only cost me about 90 for the plugs. The ones that came out were fine. Its a wearable item that wears over usage. Honestly the real reason to change them/ remove them and apply anti seize to them so they don't potentially seize in the head. But if your going to take them out and apply anti seize to the threads is it worth it then to not just change them. I kept my old ones as spares if i need one in a pinch.
Jim