How long for rebuild if driving HPDE only?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How long for rebuild if driving HPDE only?
Hi all,
Curious to know the longevity on both tranny and motor if just using the car for HPDE? Please let me know!
Coop
Curious to know the longevity on both tranny and motor if just using the car for HPDE? Please let me know!
Coop
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Flyoverland - Central, Ohio
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Cups running in A-DE is always fun to see / hear.
All speculative - I suspect how it is driven will have an effect on the answer, but assuming typical advanced driving, not seeing much reason to think A-DE Hours and Racing Hours are much different on driveline wear and tear (assuming no change in RPM cut off) at WOT. Metal wear from RPM Hours are RPM Hours. High strung engine is a high strung engine. Also think nothing magical happens at 50Hrs/100hrs, but increasing gradual/accelerated loss of performance and increasing risk of something breaking (from excessive wear / tolerance losses). And once rebuilt (w/o a bang) only possible savings would be on labor, as parts is parts 9And always going up in price), and maybe very worn (50/100+) parts can then cause other parts to wear more / sooner then 50/100 cycle.
All speculative - I suspect how it is driven will have an effect on the answer, but assuming typical advanced driving, not seeing much reason to think A-DE Hours and Racing Hours are much different on driveline wear and tear (assuming no change in RPM cut off) at WOT. Metal wear from RPM Hours are RPM Hours. High strung engine is a high strung engine. Also think nothing magical happens at 50Hrs/100hrs, but increasing gradual/accelerated loss of performance and increasing risk of something breaking (from excessive wear / tolerance losses). And once rebuilt (w/o a bang) only possible savings would be on labor, as parts is parts 9And always going up in price), and maybe very worn (50/100+) parts can then cause other parts to wear more / sooner then 50/100 cycle.
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skremese (04-10-2022)
#3
Rennlist Member
gearbox lasted 178hrs for me so far with only yearly inspection. I changed it because it was starting to miss a shift every few days of running. Better be on the safe side and get it rebuilt. It still worked very good 99% of the time.
engine with 178hrs, just did a leak down test on the engine and its loss is less than 5%, so basically still new and very good shape.
funny thing though, the cosworth dash does not count engine hrs passed 127.5 hrs. So I can only get true hrs from the bosch ecu software directly.
engine has been running motul 15w-50 for all its life so far changed every 2-3 DE's. As for the gearbox, I use gear oil from motul and change the oil every DE
car still runs great, here is a video at VIR in nov on 2 day old tires and cool temps
appart from wear items like brakes, only things done to the car is tie rods and control arms in the front.
I had a weird issue with the brakes, if braking soft or for a longer time behind a slow car the brake pedal would get soft like I had air in the system. took a while to chase, changed pads, line, master cylinders, rebuilt the callipers, but turns out the issue was knock back front a slightly warped rotor.
changed radiators as well because of the high run time they were starting to look a bit worse for wear.
all in all it's been a reliable and very fun car to drive!
engine with 178hrs, just did a leak down test on the engine and its loss is less than 5%, so basically still new and very good shape.
funny thing though, the cosworth dash does not count engine hrs passed 127.5 hrs. So I can only get true hrs from the bosch ecu software directly.
engine has been running motul 15w-50 for all its life so far changed every 2-3 DE's. As for the gearbox, I use gear oil from motul and change the oil every DE
car still runs great, here is a video at VIR in nov on 2 day old tires and cool temps
appart from wear items like brakes, only things done to the car is tie rods and control arms in the front.
I had a weird issue with the brakes, if braking soft or for a longer time behind a slow car the brake pedal would get soft like I had air in the system. took a while to chase, changed pads, line, master cylinders, rebuilt the callipers, but turns out the issue was knock back front a slightly warped rotor.
changed radiators as well because of the high run time they were starting to look a bit worse for wear.
all in all it's been a reliable and very fun car to drive!
#4
gearbox lasted 178hrs for me so far with only yearly inspection. I changed it because it was starting to miss a shift every few days of running. Better be on the safe side and get it rebuilt. It still worked very good 99% of the time.
engine with 178hrs, just did a leak down test on the engine and its loss is less than 5%, so basically still new and very good shape.
funny thing though, the cosworth dash does not count engine hrs passed 127.5 hrs. So I can only get true hrs from the bosch ecu software directly.
engine has been running motul 15w-50 for all its life so far changed every 2-3 DE's. As for the gearbox, I use gear oil from motul and change the oil every DE
car still runs great, here is a video at VIR in nov on 2 day old tires and cool temps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAyo5deqswc
appart from wear items like brakes, only things done to the car is tie rods and control arms in the front.
I had a weird issue with the brakes, if braking soft or for a longer time behind a slow car the brake pedal would get soft like I had air in the system. took a while to chase, changed pads, line, master cylinders, rebuilt the callipers, but turns out the issue was knock back front a slightly warped rotor.
changed radiators as well because of the high run time they were starting to look a bit worse for wear.
all in all it's been a reliable and very fun car to drive!
engine with 178hrs, just did a leak down test on the engine and its loss is less than 5%, so basically still new and very good shape.
funny thing though, the cosworth dash does not count engine hrs passed 127.5 hrs. So I can only get true hrs from the bosch ecu software directly.
engine has been running motul 15w-50 for all its life so far changed every 2-3 DE's. As for the gearbox, I use gear oil from motul and change the oil every DE
car still runs great, here is a video at VIR in nov on 2 day old tires and cool temps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAyo5deqswc
appart from wear items like brakes, only things done to the car is tie rods and control arms in the front.
I had a weird issue with the brakes, if braking soft or for a longer time behind a slow car the brake pedal would get soft like I had air in the system. took a while to chase, changed pads, line, master cylinders, rebuilt the callipers, but turns out the issue was knock back front a slightly warped rotor.
changed radiators as well because of the high run time they were starting to look a bit worse for wear.
all in all it's been a reliable and very fun car to drive!
#6
Rennlist Member
Which cup LOL?
Mezgers last 40 and up to 100H if you warm up well and never abuse
DFIs officially 60 but likely an easy 100H+
H pattern lasts forever if you got the skills
7 Sequential lasts as long as your luck. But never more than 20-25H in my experience
1 Sequential is 40 max 60H before it starts screaming at you
Brakes dampers and axles wear whether you race them or caress them lathered in baby oil.
Mezgers last 40 and up to 100H if you warm up well and never abuse
DFIs officially 60 but likely an easy 100H+
H pattern lasts forever if you got the skills
7 Sequential lasts as long as your luck. But never more than 20-25H in my experience
1 Sequential is 40 max 60H before it starts screaming at you
Brakes dampers and axles wear whether you race them or caress them lathered in baby oil.
Last edited by CRex; 04-20-2022 at 01:43 PM.
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Williamsf1 (04-27-2022)
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#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Which cup LOL?
Mezgers last 40 and up to 100H if you warm up well and never abuse
DFIs officially 60 but likely an easy 100H+
H pattern lasts forever if you got the skills
7 Sequential lasts as long as your luck. But never more than 20-25H in my experience
1 Sequential is 40 max 60H before it starts screaming at you
Brakes dampers and axles wear whether you race them or caress them lathered in baby oil.
Mezgers last 40 and up to 100H if you warm up well and never abuse
DFIs officially 60 but likely an easy 100H+
H pattern lasts forever if you got the skills
7 Sequential lasts as long as your luck. But never more than 20-25H in my experience
1 Sequential is 40 max 60H before it starts screaming at you
Brakes dampers and axles wear whether you race them or caress them lathered in baby oil.
#9
Rennlist Member
Mine (rebuilt by PMNA) probably reached peak power at around there and I could tell it was on a decline after that--power-wise and also in terms of temps.
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Lasts 100 definitely. Beyond that I think it really is a wildcard depending on the usual factors. Bear in mind the official rebuild interval on these were 40!
Mine (rebuilt by PMNA) probably reached peak power at around there and I could tell it was on a decline after that--power-wise and also in terms of temps.
Mine (rebuilt by PMNA) probably reached peak power at around there and I could tell it was on a decline after that--power-wise and also in terms of temps.
Last edited by spiller; 04-22-2022 at 10:00 PM.
#11
As stated a lot to do with how these are driven, remember that there are items outlined on how to upshift and such to reduce wear in the tech guides (ie. upshift at greater than X% of throttle, don't upshift less than or no throttle). These cars are meant to be driven intentionally and not doing so reduces the longevity. Just watch the basics and enjoy!
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Apex Ace (04-24-2022)
#12
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the insights. Did you mean 100 hours of 40 hours for peak performance with yours? Mine is at around 45 hours now but an old rebuild…2005! Temps are still around what they were back then and the car is still fast. I don’t envision getting to 100 hours given the age of the rebuild but we shall see!
The obvious fallacy: I was improving while the car could've been declining. But at least it wasn't a dropping off a cliff in the first 100.
Enjoy the 997 Cup. It really is a special experience. Guys can sing praises about 992 this and RSR that... IMO NOTHING replaces the physicality and precision required of the 7's sequential shifter and the rewarding feeling of mastering that fickle front axle and delicate brake balance...
I'll be very tempted to get back into one some day... once bitten, always hooked...
Last edited by CRex; 04-24-2022 at 09:39 PM.
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Williamsf1 (04-27-2022)
#13
Rennlist Member
Enjoy the 997 Cup. It really is a special experience. Guys can sing praises about 992 this and RSR that... IMO NOTHING replaces the physicality and precision required of the 7's sequential shifter and the rewarding feeling of mastering that fickle front axle and delicate brake balance...
I'll be very tempted to get back into one some day... once bitten, always hooked...
Sure: They were all faster and if i have to go to war i‘ll always choose the newest/ greatest there is, but for some hotlapping with the lads a 997 it is for me all day long!
I‘d love to test a 997 GT3 R 2010/2011 with the stick though.
Regarding hours:
That‘s what we do in our cars…
996/997.1 3.6 Mezger: Maximum 100h without massive overrevs (nmotmax: <=9.500 1/min)
997.2/991.1 3.8 Mezger: Maximum 85h without massive overrevs (nmotmax: : <=9.500 1/min)
991.2: Maximum 100h to keep warranty on engine
As for the boxes:
996 H-pattern: Inspection every 50h with regular oil changes (3 events max)
997 Sequential: Rebuild every 35h with regular oil changes to determine the condition every 2-3 events (The box in my own 7.1 is at 40h now, no wear/ metal in the oil, so they do last if you treat them right! :-P )
991 Sequential: Small rebuild every 30-35h, big rebuild at 60-65h, as per the manual.
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CupCar_447 (05-03-2022),
zracer196 (04-27-2022)
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
THIS! The blast i have in the old 7.1 and 7.2 Cup (Most beautiful Cup out there IMO) without paddles and ABS was never matched by all the cars that came afterwards… 991.1 GT3 R included!
Sure: They were all faster and if i have to go to war i‘ll always choose the newest/ greatest there is, but for some hotlapping with the lads a 997 it is for me all day long!
I‘d love to test a 997 GT3 R 2010/2011 with the stick though.
Regarding hours:
That‘s what we do in our cars…
996/997.1 3.6 Mezger: Maximum 100h without massive overrevs (nmotmax: <=9.500 1/min)
997.2/991.1 3.8 Mezger: Maximum 85h without massive overrevs (nmotmax: : <=9.500 1/min)
991.2: Maximum 100h to keep warranty on engine
As for the boxes:
996 H-pattern: Inspection every 50h with regular oil changes (3 events max)
997 Sequential: Rebuild every 35h with regular oil changes to determine the condition every 2-3 events (The box in my own 7.1 is at 40h now, no wear/ metal in the oil, so they do last if you treat them right! :-P )
991 Sequential: Small rebuild every 30-35h, big rebuild at 60-65h, as per the manual.
Sure: They were all faster and if i have to go to war i‘ll always choose the newest/ greatest there is, but for some hotlapping with the lads a 997 it is for me all day long!
I‘d love to test a 997 GT3 R 2010/2011 with the stick though.
Regarding hours:
That‘s what we do in our cars…
996/997.1 3.6 Mezger: Maximum 100h without massive overrevs (nmotmax: <=9.500 1/min)
997.2/991.1 3.8 Mezger: Maximum 85h without massive overrevs (nmotmax: : <=9.500 1/min)
991.2: Maximum 100h to keep warranty on engine
As for the boxes:
996 H-pattern: Inspection every 50h with regular oil changes (3 events max)
997 Sequential: Rebuild every 35h with regular oil changes to determine the condition every 2-3 events (The box in my own 7.1 is at 40h now, no wear/ metal in the oil, so they do last if you treat them right! :-P )
991 Sequential: Small rebuild every 30-35h, big rebuild at 60-65h, as per the manual.
Now that is a great piece of info!!!! Thank you @Yannick-Hst and C4SGRPDK!!!!!!