When half-shafts go bad (pic).....
05-01-2008, 10:33 AM
#46
Nordschleife Master
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Was that street GT3 axles or cup car axles? The TT axles are significantly cheaper than the Blue Cup Car axles. Something like $700. versus $2,500. per....
05-01-2008, 09:41 PM
#48
Burning Brakes
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This is certainly going on forever . But , do we know how many hrs are on the blue cupcar axles . The only person I know of that ate them commonly was Pompelly . The black TT axles last a long time as long as it's not the 24 ! We ran them in Rolex ! No problem . Change the twice in a season ? Something like that .
06-09-2009, 03:26 AM
#49
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these are guaranteed for life which is interesting...... hmmmnnnn.....
What about these ones. $2,400 sounds pretty good.
I was considering them to run SCCA ProSolo events this year (at least 12 Drag Racing starts per event). Last year a GT2 and a GT3 broke axles at the SCCA ProSolo Nationals.
Link Here:
http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Vie...874FFA1D513%7D
I was considering them to run SCCA ProSolo events this year (at least 12 Drag Racing starts per event). Last year a GT2 and a GT3 broke axles at the SCCA ProSolo Nationals.
Link Here:
http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Vie...874FFA1D513%7D
05-03-2011, 05:56 PM
#54
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Hmm, my car seems to eat left side shafts. Or rather the CV joints, they seem to go bad at an alarming rate.
Put a good used TT shaft and new wheel bearing in last summer as both were toast, possibly from touching the wall at Monza. About 10h later the shaft starts to grind terribly and making a clicking sound under right turn acceleration, like it's overcogging (is that a word?). So I get the shaft replaced with a spare I had, not new and I am not sure about it's age and condition. In any case now this week-end that shaft starts to make the same sound, like it's overcogging in right turns under acceleration.
I'm suspecting the worn shafts (CV joints really) is the result of something else being wrong. Even if the shafts aren't new it shouldn't eat CV joints like this. But what can be wrong? Geometry checks out. Could something be moving under load, putting axial load on the joints? Engine/gearbox supports? Struts/links/bushings in the suspension? Wheelbearing? How sensitive is the shaft to angles? The rear is a little lower than spec at 119 mm.
Car is a 996 GT3 CS, 2001 MY. Pretty standard but sits a little lower.
Thankful for input, wanna get to the bottom of this before my drive shaft account is exhausted.
Put a good used TT shaft and new wheel bearing in last summer as both were toast, possibly from touching the wall at Monza. About 10h later the shaft starts to grind terribly and making a clicking sound under right turn acceleration, like it's overcogging (is that a word?). So I get the shaft replaced with a spare I had, not new and I am not sure about it's age and condition. In any case now this week-end that shaft starts to make the same sound, like it's overcogging in right turns under acceleration.
I'm suspecting the worn shafts (CV joints really) is the result of something else being wrong. Even if the shafts aren't new it shouldn't eat CV joints like this. But what can be wrong? Geometry checks out. Could something be moving under load, putting axial load on the joints? Engine/gearbox supports? Struts/links/bushings in the suspension? Wheelbearing? How sensitive is the shaft to angles? The rear is a little lower than spec at 119 mm.
Car is a 996 GT3 CS, 2001 MY. Pretty standard but sits a little lower.
Thankful for input, wanna get to the bottom of this before my drive shaft account is exhausted.
05-03-2011, 10:13 PM
#57
Burning Brakes
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Thats more of an issue with an impact gun. Either loose alowing freeplay until it snaps, or severe over torque. This one of the places you want to check torque from time to time, but when you notice you get a little more of a turn everytime you check it, it may be that it's stretching instead of the nut backing off.
Save up some money, and buy some new parts before you total the car saving only hundreds.
Save up some money, and buy some new parts before you total the car saving only hundreds.
05-05-2011, 09:35 AM
#58
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Thats more of an issue with an impact gun. Either loose alowing freeplay until it snaps, or severe over torque. This one of the places you want to check torque from time to time, but when you notice you get a little more of a turn everytime you check it, it may be that it's stretching instead of the nut backing off.
Save up some money, and buy some new parts before you total the car saving only hundreds.
Save up some money, and buy some new parts before you total the car saving only hundreds.
The shaft in the pics is the one that was damaged from the hit, the others have gone bad in the CV joints. The were not mounted with an impact gun. I will go over the bolts to make sure all is tightened up.
I don't mind forking up for new parts but I want to be sure there is no other fault resulting in destroyed CV joints.
