M-M

I was told this below and wonder if my clutch is 29mm how many KM i can drive until it needs to be changed (28mm) ? also i thought glossy plate problem were on the 2004 CGTīs and the clutch were updated 2005, my car is 2006.

"The tickness of the clutch is important but most of the time is not the tickness of the clutch the problem. Many times the clutch gets burned out that means the clutch plates gets glossy which is the reason of not right handling of the clutch. That means the thickness of the clutch is the same important as the condition of the single clutch plate. Many times the tickness is ok but the plates are glossy and the clutch is not working any more. If you want to messure it there you can see if its used but it can be that the thickness is really good but the clutch is done because of the glossy plates, most of the time is that case.The thickness of a clutch which you messure inside the engine is new 30,4 mm. Your clutch is 29,0 mm. The clutch needs to be replaced by 28,0 mm inside the engine. If you messure the clutch out of the engine the thickness of the clutch is 31,0 mm if its new. That means you have a tolerance of circa 0,6 mm between a clutch which is mounted in the car or out."

911SLOW

I know of a '04 car with 29mm that didn't change it for at least another year and maybe 5000klm, but of course that can vary from the type of usage.

From the workshop manual:



Checking clutch plates for wear


Workshop caliper gauge Commercially available tool no.139





Removing clutch
1. Remove underbody cover. → "5 Removing and installing underside panel "
2. Remove protection plate for clutch bleeder pipe. To do this, undo the screws and remove protection plate.


3. Measure distance -a- between the clutch intermediate plates using workshop caliper gauge no.139



If measurement -a- is less than 28 mm, the clutch must be replaced
If measurement -a- is greater than 28 mm, no further action is required.


Clutch worn

Information

During re-installation of the engine-transmission unit, the clutch bleeder pipe protection plate removed for measurement of the wear must be re-fitted.

Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.)
Clutch OK
1. Fit protection plate for clutch bleeder pipe

Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.)
2. Install underbody cover. → "5 Removing and installing underside panel "


Tightening torques
Location
Thread
Tightening torque [Nm] (ftlb.)

Protection plate for clutch bleeder pipe
M6
10 (7.5)





and


Checking PCCC (Porsche Ceramic Composite Clutch)


During daily use, torque capacity of the PCCC increases to over 1,000 Nm (740 ftlb.). Only when it is completely new does the PCCC require examination in regard to clutch slippage. This inspection is to be carried out after complete or partial replacement of the PCCC.

After installation of a new PCCC in a vehicle, the former must be tested for torque capacity and, if necessary, broken in. Should this be the case, the following procedure is to be adhered to in detail.


Caution

Testing the torque capacity of the PCCC may only occur under the following conditions:
PSM in the vehicle must be active.
The road surface must be absolutely dry.
Acceleration under full load is only permissible on straight stretches and is not permitted in corners.
Sufficient friction values between road surface and tyres must be guaranteed.
The inspection may only be performed in appropriate traffic and only by persons familiar with handling maximum performance sports vehicles.



Testing moving off
1. The vehicle shall be moved off at approx. 4,000 rpm and with the PCCC grinding for approx. 1 second.
2. The vehicle shall then be immediately accelerated under full load up to and including third gear. The acceleration process is stopped in third gear at 4,500 rpm. Vehicle speed is then roughly 100 km/h (62 mph).
Information

If the PCCC slips during acceleration, continue with the cool-off phase.
If there is no clutch slippage, this PCCC is OK.



Cool-off phase
1. For cooling off, the vehicle shall be driven under low loads in the second, third and fourth gear. During this time, the PCCC shall be successively opened in combination with gear shifts. After approx. 5 min, the cool-off phase has been completed and the acceleration test can begin.



Acceleration test
1. Accelerate under full load in second and third gear up to an engine speed of 4,500 rpm. Vehicle speed is then roughly 100 km/h (62 mph).
Information

If the PCCC slips, continue with the cool-off phase. After that, the entire procedure, beginning with testing moving off, must be repeated.
If there is no clutch slippage, the PCCC is OK.


//////////////////////////////

measure plate images:

M-M

Thank you very much!!
I know itīs only 3mm (31-28mm) but i hope i can drive more then 5000KM... I saw Jay Leno saying the clutch is good for 50000 hard miles if you use the clutch right of course

Macster

Generally clutch wear is not linear and even though say the clutch is worn down by 2/3rds in 10K miles this does not mean there is just another 5K miles in the remaining 1/3rd.

If the clutch engages smoothly and there are no other symptoms pointing to the clutch as the cause then the odds are high the clutch is ok just a bit worn.

Depending upon how you drive the car that remaining 1mm can last you a long long time.

Sincerely,

Macster.

wtdoom

It will last over 50 000 miles easy , all day long if its not slipped regularly . Its a great piece of engineering that thing .

M-M

Thanks to all of you! I will try not to slipp it but in the hills i need more practice... also just installed lift system all around (raises 45mm) so i can use the car here )) Amazing car!

Macster

Oh you poor thing having to negotiate the hills of Monaco in a C-GT. My heart bleeds for you. Not!

Enjoy the car.

Sincerely,

Macster.

MikeGT

I bought my CGT over a year ago with 800 miles on it. I didn't have the clutch measured. A couple weeks later on the open road I got on the gas hard in 3rd gear for the first time. At about 5500 RPM the clutch slipped and the RPM's zinged up to 7000 before I shifted into 4rth. Still hard on the gas, the same thing happened in 4rth. Damn...did the previous owner burn up the clutch in 800 miles I thought? After it slipped a few more times in the days ahead (basically every time I got on it, the same slipping occurred), I was convinced I needed a new clutch.
However, after reading this thread, I decided to give this burned glossy clutch plate theory a try. I did it a bit different: I started in 2nd gear traveling at about 2500 RPM. Then I smoothly put the gas to the floor and shifted through 3rd and 4rth when I reached 4500 RPM. It was a bit boring and I thought this is not going to do anything...but it worked. I turned the car around and ran up through the gears shifting at 8100 RPM. No slip. Since then, in the last thousand miles, not a single slip. Thank you Rennlist forum.

Nizer

Curious that you never see 2006 model year for sale in the States. Was the 2006 model year only sold in ROW? Does anyone have numbers produced by model year?

911SLOW

Production ended May 6,2006.
1270 CGT were made and US got 607.

I don't have data by model year.

W8MM

All Carrera GTs sold in the USA were MY 2004 or 2005. There was an NHSTA air bag regulation change that applied to all MY 2006-and-beyond vehicles for which Porsche was unsuccessful in obtaining a CGT-specific waiver. Therefore, all CGTs planned for USA MY 2006 were crammed into MY 2004/2005 production, resulting in the market glut that suppressed CGT prices for a year or two. The prices recovered as the EUR/US$ ratio became more exaggerated and US CGTs started being exported to EUR-priced destinations.

reubenk

quick question for the CGT owners out there:
how many of you launch the car with the "slowly lift clutch and pray" technique vs using a little right foot?

I'm a new CGT owner (in a relatively hilly area) and have searched and read all of the "clutch" threads I could find. my dealer tech is telling me to never use the gas. I recently went out and practiced for an hour or so on a decently steep hill and, to my surprise, my car will actually pull it up hill using the left pedal only method - however - this seems like such a slow and sensitive procedure that you are bound to have a line of people on your rear giving you the finger and the horn long before you ever start to move - and thats if you dont stall it by letting out just a tad too fast or instinctively touching the gas.

for the left foot only guys - do you get good enough at this to somehow speed the process up?
for the right foot guys - is there a magic rpm range that slips just enough to pull off but not stall or skip? (I havent found it yet)

thanks

zed996tt

I'm looking at a car with 10k miles. 5 previous owners. Clutch is at 28.8 mm. Based on owner experience, what is the expected mileage before needing replacement? Is this normal wear? I notice that whenever I see videos of the CGT, drivers tend to slip the clutch in between gears to show off the revving power of the engine...sounds nice but doesn't that cause accelerated clutch wear? Is new clutch still at $25k?

MikeGT

I always use the auto throttle method (left foot only). Because it's not as quick as the right foot gas and go, I'm just aware of when the light is going to turn green. Even on a hill I will have my right foot on the brake and my left ready with the clutch. Just before it's time to go, my left foot will slowly let out the clutch to a point where I know it's just before it starts engaging. At the green, I slowly let out the rest of the clutch, hear the slight auto throttle, car inches forward - and at that moment I gently give it gas. If done right, it all should take place inside 2 seconds. The key is to trust the car will not stall if done correctly. If you're nervous about it, chances are you will do it too quickly, or not hit the gas in time after the clutch engages (and if you're on a hill, it will stall). However, even on a slight incline, you can use only the clutch to move the car forward - such as getting it into the driveway and garage (I never need the gas).

As for slipping the clutch between gears? I've never heard of this. Perhaps you mean they are just blipping the throttle with the clutch engaged? I don't think that hurts the clutch at all.

stefan einz

I use the same approach as MikeGT when pulling away on the flat. And on hills, I use the same approach - right foot on the brake, and ease the clutch to its biting point before easing off the brake. Easier, I find, that using the handbrake (the footbrake is easier to modulate). In both cases, you just need to get the car rolling with the clutch engaged and you can get onto the throttle.

On the flat I start in second gear and this makes for a quick get away (avoiding a 1 to 2 change). On a hill, you need to be in first to avoid a stall.

To Zed996tt, that is probably above average wear for the clutch (although many have worn the clutch out much faster!) - it will need replacing at 28mm. It could last another 20,000 miles if the clutch is treated well, but I'd consider asking for a deal to be done to replace the clutch as part of the purchase.

I've done 15,000 miles in my car and the clutch is 1/3rd worn, but the wear rate is slowing so my guess is I should get 50,000 miles plus out of it.

Cheers