Diy painting racecars for beginners -questions
11-22-2020, 12:34 PM
#16
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original post had the questions, before it got derailed
Thanks 'fatbillybob' for some helpful insight.
So for those that can contribute on topic of PAINTING a track car, especially with pertinent personal experience , please do so:
Here some specific questions to keep it on topic.
So for those that can contribute on topic of PAINTING a track car, especially with pertinent personal experience , please do so:
Here some specific questions to keep it on topic.
- are you using single stage urethane or some thing else, seems like clear coating is a bit much for a paintjob that gets a lot of abuse
- front bumper covers and lower rockers take a lot of abuse on track. for flexible pieces like a bumper cover are you using a different mix than then rest of body? Paint store wasn't helpful on that surprisingly
- is bondo(filler) on a bumper cover (flexible piece) a foolish exercise? to me it seems brittle.. is there a better way to address some waviness ( laying down fibreglass or just the resin)
- any steps that you would do differently (examples)
- why are mixing rulers better than cups
- step through the sanding grits a bit slower (prior or post paint) because of visible scratch marks),
- different environment (temps, dust control, etc), vary from paint mfr instructions on some pieces, clean compressor air separator at certain intervals.
- skip certain steps that were over board in retrospect ( panels off, glass out, extra coats)
11-22-2020, 02:11 PM
#17
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There is a flex additive for urethane and other parts.
Clear coat is easier IMHO. You only really need to get the color to lay down ok, lay the clear wet, then get a chance to buff out any problems.
I never put filler on a bumper cover. I would expect they have something with flex in it. For fiberglass stuff, filler isn't a problem. I like West System epoxy with super lightweight filler on fiberglass.
Mixing cups are either disposable or have to be cleaned. Cleaning a metal ruler is way easier.
For general steps, filler sanded with 36, then 80. On a track car, you can stop there or go 120 if you want. Then high build primer (cheap and super filling is Mar Hyde). Sand that with 220, then 320. Clean, base, clear.
Clear coat is easier IMHO. You only really need to get the color to lay down ok, lay the clear wet, then get a chance to buff out any problems.
I never put filler on a bumper cover. I would expect they have something with flex in it. For fiberglass stuff, filler isn't a problem. I like West System epoxy with super lightweight filler on fiberglass.
Mixing cups are either disposable or have to be cleaned. Cleaning a metal ruler is way easier.
For general steps, filler sanded with 36, then 80. On a track car, you can stop there or go 120 if you want. Then high build primer (cheap and super filling is Mar Hyde). Sand that with 220, then 320. Clean, base, clear.
11-22-2020, 03:37 PM
#18
Painting Race Car Info . . .
Thanks 'fatbillybob' for some helpful insight.
So for those that can contribute on topic of PAINTING a track car, especially with pertinent personal experience , please do so:
Here some specific questions to keep it on topic.
So for those that can contribute on topic of PAINTING a track car, especially with pertinent personal experience , please do so:
Here some specific questions to keep it on topic.
- are you using single stage urethane or some thing else, seems like clear coating is a bit much for a paintjob that gets a lot of abuse - - Single Stage with hardner from auto paint store - no clear coat - - maybe $300 or less for all the paint and finishing material - - it was our first major paint work (learned along the way = OJT ). . .
- front bumper covers and lower rockers take a lot of abuse on track. for flexible pieces like a bumper cover are you using a different mix than then rest of body? Paint store wasn't helpful on that surprisingly - - Same paint and sometimes front red/brown rattle can Rustolium etc . . . Rear I use same as body paint
- is bondo(filler) on a bumper cover (flexible piece) a foolish exercise? to me it seems brittle.. is there a better way to address some waviness ( laying down fibreglass or just the resin) - - Yes, Bondo is fine on front splitter/bumper cover - ours is Fiberglass and a lot of rock chips - - I had to do a major repair to the rear bumper and used fabric along with the resin and Bondo . . .
- any steps that you would do differently (examples) - - Our body paint did the "Orange Peel" on the rear quarter panels and we had to do wet sanding and 3 polish (Mothers) steps to get shiny - the front red fenders could have used the same but left a satin finish (because Race Car) - - the doors and top are still original Porsche Mocha Brown paint . . .
- why are mixing rulers better than cups - - we used measuring cups from paint store
- step through the sanding grits a bit slower (prior or post paint) because of visible scratch marks), - - we used 200 to 1500 wet sanding
- different environment (temps, dust control, etc), vary from paint mfr instructions on some pieces, clean compressor air separator at certain intervals. - - we made a garage paint booth by hanging clear plastic from ceiling - inexpensive compressor and Harbor Freight paint guns - - I have since bought a better paint gun but not used it yet
- skip certain steps that were over board in retrospect ( panels off, glass out, extra coats) - - we had the front fenders, hood and bumpers off - but taped the rear quarters where we had just added Turbo flares to SC body - for a race car I wouldn't bother taking the glass out . . .
Regards,
Roy T
Grid Phoenix 10 11 2020
11-23-2020, 09:13 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
I see some recommendations for base and clear coat. Granted that is the standard so most products are geared toward that. I've always understood that single stage was preferable for a racecar to make spot repairs easier. No?