Advice on a Dedicated HPDE Racecar
10-01-2021, 10:41 AM
#46
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
https://www.racingjunk.com/improved-...11&from=search
factory race car is cool, no doubt.
I'm wondering though, if all you really want to do is DE, would a Cayman S with a bolt in half cage/seats/harness, GT3 style LCAs, some decent 1 or 2 way struts, upgraded brake pads, and some decent tires not do the job? Your spend would be under $60k, you'd have a fast, fun, and reliable track car that can still be used on the street in a pinch. I know safety is your priority, but given the factory safety systems built into the newer cars, I would think this package would be plenty safe.
factory race car is cool, no doubt.
I'm wondering though, if all you really want to do is DE, would a Cayman S with a bolt in half cage/seats/harness, GT3 style LCAs, some decent 1 or 2 way struts, upgraded brake pads, and some decent tires not do the job? Your spend would be under $60k, you'd have a fast, fun, and reliable track car that can still be used on the street in a pinch. I know safety is your priority, but given the factory safety systems built into the newer cars, I would think this package would be plenty safe.
My wife becoming a willing participant in this hobby has really thrown a curveball into my idea of a perfect garage. My GT4 is a car that does everything I want, but honestly, these experiences with my wife transcend that. I am not going to force her to drive a manual on track just to justify the GT4. But if I look into my garage and see a GT4 and a tweaked S, guess which one I am excited to load on a trailer and drive on track? Now if you park a GTB1 car next to the GT4, that changes things significantly. I would be very excited to load up that racecar every time. This is all about being safe, having fun, learning to drive, making friends, and most of all bonding with my wife. I think we would have more fun with a racecar so if we can swing it I'd like to try to make that work. That is where my head is at right now anyway...
10-01-2021, 11:03 AM
#47
My significant other is also not comfortable with a manual transmission, so not judgement there, but I wonder if you can rephrase it as something fun to learn and improve? With the rev matching, stability control, etc, in the GT4, it's certainly a good car to learn on compared to say, a 915 transaxle.
Cheaper to keep the car you have as well.
There is a GTB1 for sale locally...(well probably more than one).
Cheaper to keep the car you have as well.
There is a GTB1 for sale locally...(well probably more than one).
Last edited by Locker537; 10-01-2021 at 11:11 AM.
10-01-2021, 11:44 AM
#48
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My significant other is also not comfortable with a manual transmission, so not judgement there, but I wonder if you can rephrase it as something fun to learn and improve? With the rev matching, stability control, etc, in the GT4, it's certainly a good car to learn on compared to say, a 915 transaxle.
Cheaper to keep the car you have as well.
There is a GTB1 for sale locally...(well probably more than one).
Cheaper to keep the car you have as well.
There is a GTB1 for sale locally...(well probably more than one).
Every time I search for GTB1 cars, or even fully built 981's, I always seem to find good examples locally. They seem fairly easy to locate and don't see to be priced much higher than a couple years ago. At least they don't seem to be in a pricing bubble like used street cars right now...
10-01-2021, 12:03 PM
#49
WRONGLY ACCUSED!
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Reasonable suggestion... I'd say it would be a 50/50 chance that I would be able to convince her but not sure it is worth the effort. There is an additional reason why I am hesitant. I would really like to avoid the risk of the money-shift. In the heat of battle on track with so much going on, it is fairly easy to engage the wrong gear especially for a novice that is still learning to manage all of the inputs. I have done it myself several times, not money shifting, but selecting the wrong gear. The rev-match system has secondary benefit of alerting a mis-shift with a very aggressive maximum rev match. That is enough alert to protect me from making a costly mistake but I am not sure it is for my wife. And again, I am not sure if it is worth going down that road. If we can avoid the "honey I money-shifted" conversation, I would prefer it. As much as I love driving manual on street, and like driving it on track, I would like to try PDK for a while and just focus on driving. I don't think I will miss anything. I am not hung up on needing a manual or perfecting my heel/toe. I may change my mind and come back to it but for now I am willing to forego the experience and try PDK for a while. I also plan to keep the GT4 as a mostly street car.
Every time I search for GTB1 cars, or even fully built 981's, I always seem to find good examples locally. They seem fairly easy to locate and don't see to be priced much higher than a couple years ago. At least they don't seem to be in a pricing bubble like used street cars right now...
Every time I search for GTB1 cars, or even fully built 981's, I always seem to find good examples locally. They seem fairly easy to locate and don't see to be priced much higher than a couple years ago. At least they don't seem to be in a pricing bubble like used street cars right now...
Fall into winter is an awesome time to buy a race car and there can be some good deals in the dead of winter.
10-01-2021, 12:56 PM
#50
...But if I look into my garage and see a GT4 and a tweaked S, guess which one I am excited to load on a trailer and drive on track? Now if you park a GTB1 car next to the GT4, that changes things significantly. I would be very excited to load up that racecar every time...
10-01-2021, 01:24 PM
#51
Race Director
Some good insight here, and I might as well throw in my $0.42:
First off - let's get a levelset:
1. You need a dual-driver car that is both PDK and can handle twice the load per track event.
2. You have a $100k budget. But what does that cover? Cost of the car? Car + consumables like fuel, oil, tires & brakes, + regular maintenance? Plus track fees & transportation costs? Trailer maintenance costs? Cost for storage?
3. You are an intermediate driver with a couple of years of driving experience, and your wife has a little less. How many track days have you participated in? Have you done any go-karting or autocross in the past? (I can relate to the winter roads offering you the opportunity to learn car control....
)
So, my question for you is simple: what do you want to achieve with this whole DE adventure with your bride?
Option 1: If you both want to improve your driving ability, then anything more than a moderately upgraded street car is overkill, especially at the beginner & intermediate levels.
Recommendation: A well sorted 987.2 or 981 Cayman S with a decent suspension upgrade, rollbar, harnesses, seats, and other typical track upgrades is a great choice. This is a solid platform - IMS & bore scoring issues that plagued the older Caymans & Boxster are all but gone. As you've probably experienced, these cars are the "go-to" cars for DE's. Excellent platform, well balanced, has just the right amount of power and nanny-aids to allow you to have fun in the corners yet reel you in if you step out too far. Note: the 987's have a steel body vs. the 981's aluminum skin. Sheet metal can be unbent a lot easier than aluminum.
Option 2: If you want to drive "flat out" and be the fastest car out there in DE, then get an all-out racecar. Keep in mind that your wife may not enjoy driving a stripped down, super-stiff and twitchy racecar, even with a PDK transmission. More concerning, a highly modified car hides a multitude of sins, especially in HPDE applications. Your progress will likely slow down since you will be relying on the car to go fast, vs. your developing skills.
Recommendation: While a cup car may be out of your budget, you can always build up option #1 into an all out racecar. I know that you don't want to go that route, but doing so will allow you to build up your talent to match the upgrades on your track car. Also - someone's idea of an improvement may not suit your driving style. Full disclosure: First time around, I did this with my 944S2: started bone stock, and ended with something that was one or two steps away from being a capable club level racecar. This second time around, I started with a well-sorted and modified 987.2S.
Options 3: If you want to eventually get into club racing, then a racecar in a slower class would be a good choice. If you get into a super fast class, you will be out driven and be a rolling chicane, despite your "mad driving skillz."
Don't get me wrong, you are probably a good driver, but I know how this sport affects egos. If we are honest with ourselves, our ego's drive much faster than our abilities...
Recommendation: Something like a Spec Boxster, club racing spec 996/997 cup car, or a Cayman S club racer would be a good choice. Anything faster and your car will out-drive your talent.
Sorry for the long and bias-filled post. Determine what you want to achieve, and your choice will become self-evident...
First off - let's get a levelset:
1. You need a dual-driver car that is both PDK and can handle twice the load per track event.
2. You have a $100k budget. But what does that cover? Cost of the car? Car + consumables like fuel, oil, tires & brakes, + regular maintenance? Plus track fees & transportation costs? Trailer maintenance costs? Cost for storage?
3. You are an intermediate driver with a couple of years of driving experience, and your wife has a little less. How many track days have you participated in? Have you done any go-karting or autocross in the past? (I can relate to the winter roads offering you the opportunity to learn car control....
)So, my question for you is simple: what do you want to achieve with this whole DE adventure with your bride?
Option 1: If you both want to improve your driving ability, then anything more than a moderately upgraded street car is overkill, especially at the beginner & intermediate levels.
Recommendation: A well sorted 987.2 or 981 Cayman S with a decent suspension upgrade, rollbar, harnesses, seats, and other typical track upgrades is a great choice. This is a solid platform - IMS & bore scoring issues that plagued the older Caymans & Boxster are all but gone. As you've probably experienced, these cars are the "go-to" cars for DE's. Excellent platform, well balanced, has just the right amount of power and nanny-aids to allow you to have fun in the corners yet reel you in if you step out too far. Note: the 987's have a steel body vs. the 981's aluminum skin. Sheet metal can be unbent a lot easier than aluminum.
Option 2: If you want to drive "flat out" and be the fastest car out there in DE, then get an all-out racecar. Keep in mind that your wife may not enjoy driving a stripped down, super-stiff and twitchy racecar, even with a PDK transmission. More concerning, a highly modified car hides a multitude of sins, especially in HPDE applications. Your progress will likely slow down since you will be relying on the car to go fast, vs. your developing skills.
Recommendation: While a cup car may be out of your budget, you can always build up option #1 into an all out racecar. I know that you don't want to go that route, but doing so will allow you to build up your talent to match the upgrades on your track car. Also - someone's idea of an improvement may not suit your driving style. Full disclosure: First time around, I did this with my 944S2: started bone stock, and ended with something that was one or two steps away from being a capable club level racecar. This second time around, I started with a well-sorted and modified 987.2S.
Options 3: If you want to eventually get into club racing, then a racecar in a slower class would be a good choice. If you get into a super fast class, you will be out driven and be a rolling chicane, despite your "mad driving skillz."
Don't get me wrong, you are probably a good driver, but I know how this sport affects egos. If we are honest with ourselves, our ego's drive much faster than our abilities...Recommendation: Something like a Spec Boxster, club racing spec 996/997 cup car, or a Cayman S club racer would be a good choice. Anything faster and your car will out-drive your talent.
Sorry for the long and bias-filled post. Determine what you want to achieve, and your choice will become self-evident...
Last edited by Z-man; 10-01-2021 at 03:34 PM.
10-01-2021, 02:29 PM
#52
...You are an intermediate drive with a couple of years of driving experience, and your wife has a little less. ...
Option 1: If you both want to improve your driving ability, then anything more than a moderately upgraded street car is overkill, especially at the beginner & intermediate levels.
Recommendation: A well sorted 987.2 or 981 Cayman S with a decent suspension upgrade, rollbar, harnesses, seats, and other typical track upgrades is a great choice. This is a solid platform - IMS & bore scoring issues that plagued the older Caymans & Boxster are all but gone. As you've probably experienced, these cars are the "go-to" cars for DE's. Excellent platform, well balanced, has just the right amount of power and nanny-aids to allow you to have fun in the corners yet reel you in if you step out too far. Note: the 987's have a steel body vs. the 981's aluminum skin. Sheet metal can be unbent a lot easier than aluminum...
Option 1: If you both want to improve your driving ability, then anything more than a moderately upgraded street car is overkill, especially at the beginner & intermediate levels.
Recommendation: A well sorted 987.2 or 981 Cayman S with a decent suspension upgrade, rollbar, harnesses, seats, and other typical track upgrades is a great choice. This is a solid platform - IMS & bore scoring issues that plagued the older Caymans & Boxster are all but gone. As you've probably experienced, these cars are the "go-to" cars for DE's. Excellent platform, well balanced, has just the right amount of power and nanny-aids to allow you to have fun in the corners yet reel you in if you step out too far. Note: the 987's have a steel body vs. the 981's aluminum skin. Sheet metal can be unbent a lot easier than aluminum...
10-01-2021, 03:44 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This whole thread has been a great dialog and I appreciate all of the comments and suggestions, thanks...
1. Correct
2. I learned on RL that it is bad practice to add it all up
So we will stick with a 100k vehicle budget 
3. 18 days for me and 16 for my wife plus we each have attended one day high performance driving school with car control (manufacturer based). We are both attending a car control clinic at LRP next weekend. I want her to have improved control so that she can handle herself when she gets in trouble pushing her car. For me I just like drifting on the skidpad and there is never too much car control skill!
If I had to pick one of your options, it would be Option 1. However, with DE I think part of the component that makes it fun is an exciting car, at least for my wife and I. She took a ride in a GTB1 car at the last DE and really liked it. I will ask her if the gutted interior bothers her. It is worth checking. A Cayman S is great and the smart choice but it lacks fizz for me. I may get there but thinking about a racecar is exciting.
And I do really try to check my ego at the door for anything DE related. I think I am a quick driver for my experience, but I know my place. When I ride with an instructor I am humbled and inspired every time. I am usually one of the fastest drivers in my run group with my GT4. I was one of the slowest in the rented Miata.
Does anyone want to take an OT sidebar and criticize my driving? I'll sacrifice my ego and throw a video out on the line for the sake of this discussion. I know there are a lot of very skilled and experienced drivers on here. Here is my best lap at Palmer CCW in my rented Miata. A few disclaimers... This car was quite long in the tooth, a 1990 with 150k miles, on 200TW tires, and since it was a T30 class car I assume mostly stock and therefore only ~116hp. This is also my first time ever driving on track without auto-blip and I am not good at heel and toe. I struggled mostly with entry into turns 1, 4 and 9 because of this. With some googling it seems that this same car won a time trial 5 years ago with a 2:57.xx at Palmer so that is my benchmark as a fast lap. I have a little work to do before I can say I mastered the Miata.
First off - let's get a levelset:
1. You need a dual-driver car that is both PDK and can handle twice the load per track event.
2. You have a $100k budget. But what does that cover? Cost of the car? Car + consumables like fuel, oil, tires & brakes, + regular maintenance? Plus track fees & transportation costs? Trailer maintenance costs? Cost for storage?
3. You are an intermediate drive with a couple of years of driving experience, and your wife has a little less. How many track days have you participated in? Have you done any go-karting or autocross in the past? (I can related to the winter roads offering you the opportunity to learn car control.... )
1. You need a dual-driver car that is both PDK and can handle twice the load per track event.
2. You have a $100k budget. But what does that cover? Cost of the car? Car + consumables like fuel, oil, tires & brakes, + regular maintenance? Plus track fees & transportation costs? Trailer maintenance costs? Cost for storage?
3. You are an intermediate drive with a couple of years of driving experience, and your wife has a little less. How many track days have you participated in? Have you done any go-karting or autocross in the past? (I can related to the winter roads offering you the opportunity to learn car control.... )
2. I learned on RL that it is bad practice to add it all up
So we will stick with a 100k vehicle budget 3. 18 days for me and 16 for my wife plus we each have attended one day high performance driving school with car control (manufacturer based). We are both attending a car control clinic at LRP next weekend. I want her to have improved control so that she can handle herself when she gets in trouble pushing her car. For me I just like drifting on the skidpad and there is never too much car control skill!
So, my question for you is simple: what do you want to achieve with this whole DE adventure with your bride?
Option 1: If you both want to improve your driving ability, then anything more than a moderately upgraded street car is overkill, especially at the beginner & intermediate levels.
Recommendation: A well sorted 987.2 or 981 Cayman S with a decent suspension upgrade, rollbar, harnesses, seats, and other typical track upgrades is a great choice. This is a solid platform - IMS & bore scoring issues that plagued the older Caymans & Boxster are all but gone. As you've probably experienced, these cars are the "go-to" cars for DE's. Excellent platform, well balanced, has just the right amount of power and nanny-aids to allow you to have fun in the corners yet reel you in if you step out too far. Note: the 987's have a steel body vs. the 981's aluminum skin. Sheet metal can be unbent a lot easier than aluminum.
Option 2: If you want to drive "flat out" and be the fastest car out there in DE, then get an all-out racecar. Keep in mind that your wife may not enjoy driving a stripped down, super-stiff and twitchy racecar, even with a PDK transmission. More concerning, a highly modified car hides a multitude of sins, especially in HPDE applications. Your progress will likely slow down since you will be relying on the car to go fast, vs. your developing skills.
Recommendation: While a cup car may be out of your budget, you can always build up option #1 into an all out racecar. I know that you don't want to go that route, but doing so will allow you to build up your talent to match the upgrades on your track car. Also - someone's idea of an improvement may not suit your driving style. Full disclosure: First time around, I did this with my 944S2: started bone stock, and ended with something that was one or two steps away from being a capable club level racecar. This second time around, I started with a well-sorted and modified 987.2S.
Options 3: If you want to eventually get into club racing, then a racecar in a slower class would be a good choice. If you get into a super fast class, you will be out driven and be a rolling chicane, despite your "mad driving skillz." Don't get me wrong, you are probably a good driver, but I know how this sport affects egos. If we are honest with ourselves, our ego's drive much faster than our abilities...
Recommendation: Something like a Spec Boxster, club racing spec 996/997 cup car, or a Cayman S club racer would be a good choice. Anything faster and your car will out-drive your talent.
Sorry for the long and bias-filled post. Determine what you want to achieve, and your choice will become self-evident...
Option 1: If you both want to improve your driving ability, then anything more than a moderately upgraded street car is overkill, especially at the beginner & intermediate levels.
Recommendation: A well sorted 987.2 or 981 Cayman S with a decent suspension upgrade, rollbar, harnesses, seats, and other typical track upgrades is a great choice. This is a solid platform - IMS & bore scoring issues that plagued the older Caymans & Boxster are all but gone. As you've probably experienced, these cars are the "go-to" cars for DE's. Excellent platform, well balanced, has just the right amount of power and nanny-aids to allow you to have fun in the corners yet reel you in if you step out too far. Note: the 987's have a steel body vs. the 981's aluminum skin. Sheet metal can be unbent a lot easier than aluminum.
Option 2: If you want to drive "flat out" and be the fastest car out there in DE, then get an all-out racecar. Keep in mind that your wife may not enjoy driving a stripped down, super-stiff and twitchy racecar, even with a PDK transmission. More concerning, a highly modified car hides a multitude of sins, especially in HPDE applications. Your progress will likely slow down since you will be relying on the car to go fast, vs. your developing skills.
Recommendation: While a cup car may be out of your budget, you can always build up option #1 into an all out racecar. I know that you don't want to go that route, but doing so will allow you to build up your talent to match the upgrades on your track car. Also - someone's idea of an improvement may not suit your driving style. Full disclosure: First time around, I did this with my 944S2: started bone stock, and ended with something that was one or two steps away from being a capable club level racecar. This second time around, I started with a well-sorted and modified 987.2S.
Options 3: If you want to eventually get into club racing, then a racecar in a slower class would be a good choice. If you get into a super fast class, you will be out driven and be a rolling chicane, despite your "mad driving skillz." Don't get me wrong, you are probably a good driver, but I know how this sport affects egos. If we are honest with ourselves, our ego's drive much faster than our abilities...
Recommendation: Something like a Spec Boxster, club racing spec 996/997 cup car, or a Cayman S club racer would be a good choice. Anything faster and your car will out-drive your talent.
Sorry for the long and bias-filled post. Determine what you want to achieve, and your choice will become self-evident...
And I do really try to check my ego at the door for anything DE related. I think I am a quick driver for my experience, but I know my place. When I ride with an instructor I am humbled and inspired every time. I am usually one of the fastest drivers in my run group with my GT4. I was one of the slowest in the rented Miata.
Does anyone want to take an OT sidebar and criticize my driving? I'll sacrifice my ego and throw a video out on the line for the sake of this discussion. I know there are a lot of very skilled and experienced drivers on here. Here is my best lap at Palmer CCW in my rented Miata. A few disclaimers... This car was quite long in the tooth, a 1990 with 150k miles, on 200TW tires, and since it was a T30 class car I assume mostly stock and therefore only ~116hp. This is also my first time ever driving on track without auto-blip and I am not good at heel and toe. I struggled mostly with entry into turns 1, 4 and 9 because of this. With some googling it seems that this same car won a time trial 5 years ago with a 2:57.xx at Palmer so that is my benchmark as a fast lap. I have a little work to do before I can say I mastered the Miata.
10-01-2021, 04:53 PM
#54
Race Car
What happens when you and your wife are in the same run group?
She's okay with being in a race car that beats you up as much as you beat it up?
She's okay with being in a race car that beats you up as much as you beat it up?
10-01-2021, 05:04 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Valid question... The theory is that we never will be but it is possible. My pace is much faster than her and I have been promoted at a much faster rate. She continues to surprise me however. I guess we will deal with that if it happens. I know a few people that share cars and it can work.
Again, she continues to surprise me. We have been married for 24 year and if you asked me if she would ever DE a few years ago, I would say absolutely not... So we are in uncharted waters here! I know what I am getting into with a race car. That Miata beat me up but I kind of like to be beat up. I will discuss this concern with her.
Again, she continues to surprise me. We have been married for 24 year and if you asked me if she would ever DE a few years ago, I would say absolutely not... So we are in uncharted waters here! I know what I am getting into with a race car. That Miata beat me up but I kind of like to be beat up. I will discuss this concern with her.
10-02-2021, 10:07 AM
#56
Rennlist Member
Increase your budget and buy a cayman club sport or retired GT4 spec race car. Or MX 5 cup Miata.
Your budget is insufficient to meet all your requirements in a modern track or race car realistically. Don’t touch old cups, 996/997. They will sink you. Slicks are overkill for DEs and they peak at 2-3 laps and fall off.
Also, be very circumspect in buying shop or individually built / developed street conversions. Most are high school science experiments. I have had them all…conversions, cups, factory built race cars etc.
Your budget is insufficient to meet all your requirements in a modern track or race car realistically. Don’t touch old cups, 996/997. They will sink you. Slicks are overkill for DEs and they peak at 2-3 laps and fall off.
Also, be very circumspect in buying shop or individually built / developed street conversions. Most are high school science experiments. I have had them all…conversions, cups, factory built race cars etc.
Last edited by MSR Racer; 10-02-2021 at 10:12 AM.
10-11-2021, 11:25 AM
#58
Rennlist Member
The issue here is the need for DCT/PDK. That puts you in a whole different realm of cost and speed. You have a $100k budget, but is that budget going to good use if it gets a car that's way over your heads and costs a fortune to maintain?
It is a good point to make the wife happy and engaged the highest priority, but if she's at all open to driving a manual, it'd open a lot of platforms that would be better learning platforms with far lower initial and running costs. The answer is always Miata of course, but if that's no fun, E46s 330s (like a SpecE46) are a tremendous value, easy to drive, and very safe.
My wife is tinkering on the edge of doing a track day. If/When she's ready we're going track-prepped Miata shopping.
It is a good point to make the wife happy and engaged the highest priority, but if she's at all open to driving a manual, it'd open a lot of platforms that would be better learning platforms with far lower initial and running costs. The answer is always Miata of course, but if that's no fun, E46s 330s (like a SpecE46) are a tremendous value, easy to drive, and very safe.
My wife is tinkering on the edge of doing a track day. If/When she's ready we're going track-prepped Miata shopping.
10-11-2021, 07:34 PM
#59
Rennlist Member
The issue here is the need for DCT/PDK. That puts you in a whole different realm of cost and speed. You have a $100k budget, but is that budget going to good use if it gets a car that's way over your heads and costs a fortune to maintain?
It is a good point to make the wife happy and engaged the highest priority, but if she's at all open to driving a manual, it'd open a lot of platforms that would be better learning platforms with far lower initial and running costs. The answer is always Miata of course, but if that's no fun, E46s 330s (like a SpecE46) are a tremendous value, easy to drive, and very safe.
My wife is tinkering on the edge of doing a track day. If/When she's ready we're going track-prepped Miata shopping.
It is a good point to make the wife happy and engaged the highest priority, but if she's at all open to driving a manual, it'd open a lot of platforms that would be better learning platforms with far lower initial and running costs. The answer is always Miata of course, but if that's no fun, E46s 330s (like a SpecE46) are a tremendous value, easy to drive, and very safe.
My wife is tinkering on the edge of doing a track day. If/When she's ready we're going track-prepped Miata shopping.
In perspective, Mark Donahue, Roger Penske, PL Newman started in low horsepower race cars and translated to faster race cars. Do you want to experience the history of racing with manual transmission and no ABS or do you want to be someone in which the car drives you vs the one who drives the car. Be humble for there are so many newbies who think they are auto racers in PDK race cars. Be better than them
10-11-2021, 08:03 PM
#60
Hi OP!
Both as an instructor and as a driver, I can vouch for the step-down to a less powerful car as the way to go to advance your skill-set (and your wife's) to the Black-Red run group competence level.
A Miata isn't really the most fun you can have at a PCA track day (speaking from experience) but ... you may find that a Boxster is the "sweet spot" you're looking for.
I just posted my turnkey *newly built* Spec Boxster for sale on this forum, but there are plenty of used SPB's out there to find as well.
And while a Boxster might a bit 'less car' than the earlier thoughts around a GTB1 car, you may wish to consider that the lower tag allows students to dedicate more resources toward coaching, track support, and more track days/ seat time.
As sometimes I've heard coaches say ... "tuning the nut behind the wheel" can be the most powerful "track mod" out there!
Best wishes...and so happy you both are enjoying the sport as a couple!
Both as an instructor and as a driver, I can vouch for the step-down to a less powerful car as the way to go to advance your skill-set (and your wife's) to the Black-Red run group competence level.
A Miata isn't really the most fun you can have at a PCA track day (speaking from experience) but ... you may find that a Boxster is the "sweet spot" you're looking for.
I just posted my turnkey *newly built* Spec Boxster for sale on this forum, but there are plenty of used SPB's out there to find as well.
And while a Boxster might a bit 'less car' than the earlier thoughts around a GTB1 car, you may wish to consider that the lower tag allows students to dedicate more resources toward coaching, track support, and more track days/ seat time.
As sometimes I've heard coaches say ... "tuning the nut behind the wheel" can be the most powerful "track mod" out there!
Best wishes...and so happy you both are enjoying the sport as a couple!