986 Endurance Racer Build
#62
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thus the 17"
Running smaller fronts will create too much understeer.
#63
Racer
You could run a square setup with a 245/40/15 Hankook RS-4 or Falken RT660. (I would go with the RT660) I believe the quick Boxster lap was from Rockwell Autosport at a 2:13.4.
(I was in the #600 Reuben Performance Garage NC Miata)
(I was in the #600 Reuben Performance Garage NC Miata)
#64
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QUOTE=ChampRacerJ;18306278]Good info. I too was at VIR (but not with the Boxster) I think the fastest lap for a Boxster was 2:15.7 ALT Speed works finished 2nd (only cause we broke) The 944s were 2:14.1 and 2:14.5 with issues I think we ran a 2:12 last year.
I'm planning to be at TMP with a manual. If its not fast there I will down size the wheels for sure.[/QUOTE]
We completed the 24 of VIR this past weekend. Todd drove my car the first stint and did great. We were running the Hankook RS-4's square, 255/40/17's with Hawk pads.
I have the Bilstein yellows on my car with H&R springs.
I still have a lot of body roll, I wish we could just slap some PSS9's on there because I had to cut the shocks to corner balance the car as best I could and still needed another 100lbs on my FR.
I was able to get -2.9 camber per side up front with extreme slotting of the upper shock mounts and lowering the front end more than the rear (the rear shock body juts out so you can only lower the rear by about 10mm, the fronts you can do much more).
Overall a good experience for us, we were running 4th overall at hour 6 then one of my driver's had an incident with a tire wall.
I had all the spare parts on hand and put the car back together and ended up 18th overall and P7 in class.
I would like to get another 200 lbs out of my car, its a bit heavy. I'd also like to find a light weight wheel, those stock wheels are heavy. Also would like to find a stiffer spring, or do the math to find out how much to cut the H&R's to increase spring rate by a few hundred lbs. Also would like to be able to lower the rear more, I might take my rear hubs off and put them in a lathe to do this.
The night before the race:
Last pit stop:
I'm planning to be at TMP with a manual. If its not fast there I will down size the wheels for sure.[/QUOTE]
We completed the 24 of VIR this past weekend. Todd drove my car the first stint and did great. We were running the Hankook RS-4's square, 255/40/17's with Hawk pads.
I have the Bilstein yellows on my car with H&R springs.
I still have a lot of body roll, I wish we could just slap some PSS9's on there because I had to cut the shocks to corner balance the car as best I could and still needed another 100lbs on my FR.
I was able to get -2.9 camber per side up front with extreme slotting of the upper shock mounts and lowering the front end more than the rear (the rear shock body juts out so you can only lower the rear by about 10mm, the fronts you can do much more).
Overall a good experience for us, we were running 4th overall at hour 6 then one of my driver's had an incident with a tire wall.
I had all the spare parts on hand and put the car back together and ended up 18th overall and P7 in class.
I would like to get another 200 lbs out of my car, its a bit heavy. I'd also like to find a light weight wheel, those stock wheels are heavy. Also would like to find a stiffer spring, or do the math to find out how much to cut the H&R's to increase spring rate by a few hundred lbs. Also would like to be able to lower the rear more, I might take my rear hubs off and put them in a lathe to do this.
The night before the race:
Last pit stop:
__________________
Last edited by RennPart; 08-17-2022 at 02:53 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Nickshu (09-10-2022)
#65
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
QUOTE=ChampRacerJ;18306278]Good info. I too was at VIR (but not with the Boxster) I think the fastest lap for a Boxster was 2:15.7 ALT Speed works finished 2nd (only cause we broke) The 944s were 2:14.1 and 2:14.5 with issues I think we ran a 2:12 last year.
I'm planning to be at TMP with a manual. If its not fast there I will down size the wheels for sure.
I'm planning to be at TMP with a manual. If its not fast there I will down size the wheels for sure.
I have the Bilstein yellows on my car with H&R springs.
I still have a lot of body roll, I wish we could just slap some PSS9's on there because I had to cut the shocks to corner balance the car as best I could and still needed another 100lbs on my FR.
I was able to get -2.9 camber per side up front with extreme slotting of the upper shock mounts and lowering the front end more than the rear (the rear shock body juts out so you can only lower the rear by about 10mm, the fronts you can do much more).
Overall a good experience for us, we were running 4th overall at hour 6 then one of my driver's had an incident with a tire wall.
I had all the spare parts on hand and put the car back together and ended up 18th overall and P7 in class.
I would like to get another 200 lbs out of my car, its a bit heavy. I'd also like to find a light weight wheel, those stock wheels are heavy. Also would like to find a stiffer spring, or do the math to find out how much to cut the H&R's to increase spring rate by a few hundred lbs. Also would like to be able to lower the rear more, I might take my rear hubs off and put them in a lathe to do this.
The night before the race:
Last pit stop:
[/QUOTE]
Yup saw you guys (in my mirror LOL) that Dave K with his back to camera. Your Boxster was looking good. Shedding the weight is very doable. Look at my car. no don't ....
I think I'm settling on the same set up as you described Hankook RS-4's square, 255/40/17'
I have about -2.9 camber cutting away material to get the strut tilted in.
and I have Bilsteins and springs
The following 2 users liked this post by ChampRacerJ:
RennPart (09-18-2022),
Wheelman_99 (12-24-2022)
#67
Drifting
We'll see you at Mid-Ohio -- come say hello -- we're in the Krueger Tuned Racing Boxster Silver #484. Garage #8 I believe.
Mike
#69
Drifting
#71
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What OBD2 codes are you getting? Sounds like you might have cam deviation issues. If its a 5 chain motor (97-02) then most likely your chain pads are worn on the small cam chain.
I have a 99 "parts car" that is looking more like a donor that has this same code. I will replace the chain pads and possibly tensioner when drop the motor.
Here are two really helpful videos for DIY:
--Aaron
I have a 99 "parts car" that is looking more like a donor that has this same code. I will replace the chain pads and possibly tensioner when drop the motor.
Here are two really helpful videos for DIY:
--Aaron
#72
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This is a 2003 2.7L
P0336 RPM Input
P0348 Phase sensor 2 (camshaft Hall effect sensor)
So we thought the cam sensor was causing the rpm input error.
We swapped cam sensors and it followed the sensor to give us Phase sensor 1 error.
Replaced cam sensors
Cam senor code is gone but we keep getting the P0336 rpm input even after replacing the crank sensor.
Thoughts???
P0336 RPM Input
P0348 Phase sensor 2 (camshaft Hall effect sensor)
So we thought the cam sensor was causing the rpm input error.
We swapped cam sensors and it followed the sensor to give us Phase sensor 1 error.
Replaced cam sensors
Cam senor code is gone but we keep getting the P0336 rpm input even after replacing the crank sensor.
Thoughts???
#73
Drifting
This is a 2003 2.7L
P0336 RPM Input
P0348 Phase sensor 2 (camshaft Hall effect sensor)
So we thought the cam sensor was causing the rpm input error.
We swapped cam sensors and it followed the sensor to give us Phase sensor 1 error.
Replaced cam sensors
Cam senor code is gone but we keep getting the P0336 rpm input even after replacing the crank sensor.
Thoughts???
P0336 RPM Input
P0348 Phase sensor 2 (camshaft Hall effect sensor)
So we thought the cam sensor was causing the rpm input error.
We swapped cam sensors and it followed the sensor to give us Phase sensor 1 error.
Replaced cam sensors
Cam senor code is gone but we keep getting the P0336 rpm input even after replacing the crank sensor.
Thoughts???
#74
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
no, but I've been traveling a lot
Its a 3 chain motor
I'm doing what I can before I tear the engine out of the car and tear it down.
Confirming I don't have an DME issue - Need a spare to test
Using the special timing tool to determine mechanical timing is ok
Its a 3 chain motor
I'm doing what I can before I tear the engine out of the car and tear it down.
Confirming I don't have an DME issue - Need a spare to test
Using the special timing tool to determine mechanical timing is ok
Last edited by ChampRacerJ; 11-04-2022 at 06:20 PM.
#75
Drifting
I don't know if it would show RPM issues -- but check the CAM deviation with a durametric or something. The chain tensioners could be wearing?
The other possibility is a broken tooth on the flyweel -- I think there is an inspection port underneath.
Lastly, and what happened to the ATL team at Mid-Ohio -- a worn wire in the harness I believe was causing a non-start -- and maybe a mis-fire prior.
just some things to check before getting drastic.
Mike
Last edited by txhokie4life; 09-29-2022 at 02:31 PM.