Problem with Pagid yellows, help needed?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Problem with Pagid yellows, help needed?
So in preparation for track season today I’ve changed my front rotors to Sebro slotted and the front pads to Pagid yellows (RS29) on the stock brake system of my 997.1 C2S.
The Pagid yellows are very fat, clearly a bit thicker than the stock pads so they were difficult to get in over the brand new rotors. I eventually managed after some swearing, but not surprisingly the brakes now stick quite strongly when I tried to move the car in the garage.
So my question is should I just drive the car and assume the pads will quickly wear down to not sticking, or will this break something?
Not sure how I would get the pads out of the tight fit either…
Any pointers very welcome!
The Pagid yellows are very fat, clearly a bit thicker than the stock pads so they were difficult to get in over the brand new rotors. I eventually managed after some swearing, but not surprisingly the brakes now stick quite strongly when I tried to move the car in the garage.
So my question is should I just drive the car and assume the pads will quickly wear down to not sticking, or will this break something?
Not sure how I would get the pads out of the tight fit either…
Any pointers very welcome!
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
In hindsight some folks say to remove the plate covering the pistons to ease the fit.
#4
Rennlist Member
On my old 996.2, which probably has the same rear calipers the 997 does, I had this problem with Pagids. I had to sand them down on the rear to get them to fit. Pistons were all the way in. Rotors were Girodisc. Annoying issue. I switched to PFCs and didn't have the problem anymore. Worth noting I was using Pagid black, not yellow.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Interesting. After you sanded them down how tight was the fit? Did it feel like driving with the handbrake in?
#6
Rennlist Member
I never drove with them tight. They would go in but you had to tap them in w/ a rubber mallet. Sanded them down until they fit like normal before any use. Was not difficult to do. Just lay some sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the pad on it by hand, then trial fit, sand more, repeat.
#7
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I run these pads all the time on my 997 and they fit perfectly provided you compress the pistons all the way before you slot them in provided you have the correct rotors. If they still drag after a couple of brake applications you have a serious installation problem that you need to fix.
Last edited by Frank 993 C4S; 03-30-2024 at 07:44 PM.
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WhoDat996tt (04-01-2024)
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I never drove with them tight. They would go in but you had to tap them in w/ a rubber mallet. Sanded them down until they fit like normal before any use. Was not difficult to do. Just lay some sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the pad on it by hand, then trial fit, sand more, repeat.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I run these pads all the time on my 997 and they fit perfectly provided you compress the pistons all the way before you slot them in provided you have the correct rotors. If they still drag after a couple of brake applications you have a serious installation problem that you need to fix.
#12
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No vibration dampers or backing plate.
This article might help when it comes to changing pads:
The Definitive Guide To The Porsche 997 Brakes | FCP Euro
This article might help when it comes to changing pads:
The Definitive Guide To The Porsche 997 Brakes | FCP Euro
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toma nova (03-31-2024)
#13
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#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok the situation had a definite resolution. I got up early this crispy Easter Sunday and took the car out at 7:30am to test whether the problem will resolve itself. At first I thought there was less rolling resistance than yesterday, but it got worse and worse until about half a mile away from home there were horrible noises and clouds of dark smoke rising from the calipers, no bueno.
Made it back to the garage and started disassembling the brakes, I was glad that they came out with some hammering and loosening of the rotor. One of the back shims had melted onto the back of the pad and that sheared the weights off as I got the pads out…
Anyhow, once they were out I removed the shims and they fitted in perfectly. So absolutely impossible with shims and no big deal without shims…
They should really say that on their web page! Bought from FCPeuro.
So now hopefully all is in order..phew.
I also tried the bleeding nipple bit; a tiny amount of fluid came out so maybe that helped with the disassembly.
Thanks for the help!
Made it back to the garage and started disassembling the brakes, I was glad that they came out with some hammering and loosening of the rotor. One of the back shims had melted onto the back of the pad and that sheared the weights off as I got the pads out…
Anyhow, once they were out I removed the shims and they fitted in perfectly. So absolutely impossible with shims and no big deal without shims…
They should really say that on their web page! Bought from FCPeuro.
So now hopefully all is in order..phew.
I also tried the bleeding nipple bit; a tiny amount of fluid came out so maybe that helped with the disassembly.
Thanks for the help!
#15
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Make sure you don't glaze your pads and rotors with all that heat.