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****WARNING*** Early 944 Spindles

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Old 10-15-2011, 11:35 AM
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johntorg
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Default ****WARNING*** Early 944 Spindles

I thought I'd post this warning after I broke a spindle and lost a wheel in the Hairpin at Sebring. The early 944s up to 85.5 and all the 924S models use a driver's side spindle with a hole for the speedometer cable. They are weak, and when constantly used in racing will fail. I am posting this because I knew of this problem and ignored it. The result was the loss of the wheel, hub, spindle, brakes and fender on that corner of the car. I "tri-cycled" it off the track safely, but had it broken in a high speed corner, it could have been a lot worse. Here are some pictures of the failed part, showing how little metal there is. I have since upgraded to 87 spindles and Hubs, which are not only stronger, but use larger wheel bearings. I maintained the rest of my early offset suspension, modifying the strut mounts slightly, where they bolt to the spindles. I recommend going directly to the late spindles, because they are larger and hopefully stronger than the "hole-less" 85.5 to 86 spindles.
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Old 10-15-2011, 12:54 PM
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ja78911sc
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John,

I have witnessed this failure twice. Both on low speed areas of the track--thank God.

In my opinion, the PCA should require documentation in the drivers race log book that a upgrade has been preformed.

Glad to hear everything turned out OK for you--minus the financial hit.

Jim
Old 10-15-2011, 02:18 PM
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bgiere
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Definitely not to be used for racing or even DE...they have been failing for years...pretty well known occurence. Glad you are OK!
Old 10-15-2011, 02:53 PM
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YZ250
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Just crack test the spindles when changing rotors. Its a simple and quick test. If cracked, then change it out. No big deal.
Old 10-15-2011, 02:58 PM
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johntorg
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How do you crack test the spindles? I visually inspected mine 2 races before the failure and they looked OK.
Old 10-15-2011, 03:15 PM
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Mine are being tested next week. Said they had to be removed and vibrated with a penetrating die if I understood correctly.
Old 10-15-2011, 03:46 PM
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YZ250
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You can't see the crack. I have a spindle that showed a crack with dye penetrant that looks great under normal visual inspection.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1207

plus you need a UV light

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=6752

You can test the spindles while mounted, so a rotor change is the perfect time to test them.
Old 10-15-2011, 05:20 PM
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chrisc
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curious, is the failure of the skinny spindle always on the right side (speedo) spindle?
Old 10-15-2011, 06:34 PM
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YZ250
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No. I broke a left side before I started testing. After I broke the left, I tested the right side, found it cracked, and replaced it.
Old 10-16-2011, 01:32 AM
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johntorg
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it sounds as if its easier just to upgrade. I know there have been some failures of the 85.5 - 86 spindles. has anyone had an 87 or later spindle fail?
Old 10-16-2011, 01:40 AM
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I received this reply on the same posting on the 44Cup website:

"Thanks for sharing this.

I broke my driver side spindle this summer at the Tremblant track (Qc, Canada) and discoverd a new meaning to the word understeer!

Actually, my car is a 85 1/2, so my spindle did not have that hole but it broke just the same.

Anybody has a set of late spindles for sale?"
Old 10-16-2011, 09:37 AM
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North Coast Cab
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All spindles are subject to breaking, not just the early 944NA's. The late offset 944NA thru 944S2 and 968 has a larger barrel, but given the heavier cars and increase in HP they are still subject to issues.
I have mine cleaned and magnafluxed each time I do brakes. It's a $50 job at the local machine shop.
Check you hubs too.........
Old 10-16-2011, 10:16 AM
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Sounds like good advice.
Old 10-16-2011, 11:31 AM
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samluke
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I have a set of late offset spindles hubs and rotors for sale.

The brake cooling ducts and backing plates are not included. Everything has low hours from a spec car that was converted to a Chumpcar
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:50 AM
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M758
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Originally Posted by YZ250
Just crack test the spindles when changing rotors. Its a simple and quick test. If cracked, then change it out. No big deal.
Right. I had one fail too. Part was 25-28 years old and had 8 years of racing on it. I replaced with another hollow one. Looking at the frature surfaces it is clear it had been cracked for a long time before it failed.


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