GoPro Remote Cable
04-02-2012, 04:02 PM
#62
Track Day
Ok rennlist users and drivers. Ynotmotorsports on his web site is offering. 10% off his easystart cables and if you get 2or more you get free shipping to the USA
This special ends Easter Sunday at midnight
Https://www.facebook.com/easystart remote
This special ends Easter Sunday at midnight
Https://www.facebook.com/easystart remote
04-08-2012, 02:37 PM
#65
Nordschleife Master
Ok rennlist users and drivers. Ynotmotorsports on his web site is offering. 10% off his easystart cables and if you get 2or more you get free shipping to the USA
This special ends Easter Sunday at midnight
Https://www.facebook.com/easystart remote
This special ends Easter Sunday at midnight
Https://www.facebook.com/easystart remote
04-14-2012, 02:16 PM
#66
Race Car
Great product and value
Thanks Tony! Arrived and installed in ashtray - pics in a moment - but very happy and once I set my GoPro to one touch - turn on and auto record kicks in too - it worked a dream. Now just to Label the button 'Nos' 
In summary:
1. ran cable with cable ties on back of the roll cage down from camera, along the carpet below the back 'seat' carpet, into the drivers side lip of the consol
2. ensure you avoid snagging any handbrake cables, mechanism - remove 3 torque/hex type screws inside consol storage area above handbrake cable assemblyto just allow the consol to lift a bit to provide accessfor wire
3. run along side edge of hb mechansim into gap below back window blanks
4. drill small hole in one blank to mount button - use nut for size - and then attach the led light (already mounted into ashtray)
5. mount led in the stub-out cone after crimping cables to button mounted in the blank.
6. when you remove ashtray two plastic torque type screws but bigger than back consol screws, unplug the small plug for the ashtray light, leave the biggerplugs for window operation connected.
7. save your battery and press button as you leave paddock and move out onto track.
8.Last NB ... guess what!! with HANS strapped down you wont be able to see ashytray but button is easy to see/find next to handbrake, and I can see gorpo light in rearview so went with it that way
In summary:
1. ran cable with cable ties on back of the roll cage down from camera, along the carpet below the back 'seat' carpet, into the drivers side lip of the consol
2. ensure you avoid snagging any handbrake cables, mechanism - remove 3 torque/hex type screws inside consol storage area above handbrake cable assemblyto just allow the consol to lift a bit to provide accessfor wire
3. run along side edge of hb mechansim into gap below back window blanks
4. drill small hole in one blank to mount button - use nut for size - and then attach the led light (already mounted into ashtray)
5. mount led in the stub-out cone after crimping cables to button mounted in the blank.
6. when you remove ashtray two plastic torque type screws but bigger than back consol screws, unplug the small plug for the ashtray light, leave the biggerplugs for window operation connected.
7. save your battery and press button as you leave paddock and move out onto track.
8.Last NB ... guess what!! with HANS strapped down you wont be able to see ashytray but button is easy to see/find next to handbrake, and I can see gorpo light in rearview so went with it that way
Last edited by HiWind; 04-14-2012 at 02:50 PM. Reason: dropbox being tetchy on ipad
04-15-2012, 02:20 PM
#69
Race Car
Ah the simple joys of the unlined interior looks great. I take it that's the front windscreen with the writing on it like apple ad ..something ..
looks great. I take it that's the front windscreen with the writing on it like apple ad ..something ..
04-22-2012, 11:35 AM
#71
3rd Gear
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found a link to this through Facebook today.
FYI everyone, Tony didn't invent this. I sold him one of these back in September that did the basic on/off functionality(for slightly less than he's selling them in the post I'm quoting below) -- I've since updated the one in my personal track car to include a charging circuit. When we discussed me making these in bulk for him to resell he said he found a source in the UK that could supply them to him cheaper than the parts alone were to me; he hasn't bought another from me since. Also of note is the instructions he has below is the exact message I sent him through facebook as to how to modify the rear door of the GoPro housing. If someone doesn't believe me, try the photo links -- I deleted the pictures from my PhotoBucket account just now and the links are broken.
I'm not saying I believe he reverse engineered the cable I sent him (he told me before he found another source). I'm not upset if he found another source for them or if he put the work into figuring out how to make them himself that I did. I'm upset he is posting the instructions (and pictures) I sent him for his personal use as though he came up with it and using my bandwidth because he's too lazy to rehost the pictures.
Edit: Looks like I should have read further, looks like he's making these now.
FYI everyone, Tony didn't invent this. I sold him one of these back in September that did the basic on/off functionality(for slightly less than he's selling them in the post I'm quoting below) -- I've since updated the one in my personal track car to include a charging circuit. When we discussed me making these in bulk for him to resell he said he found a source in the UK that could supply them to him cheaper than the parts alone were to me; he hasn't bought another from me since. Also of note is the instructions he has below is the exact message I sent him through facebook as to how to modify the rear door of the GoPro housing. If someone doesn't believe me, try the photo links -- I deleted the pictures from my PhotoBucket account just now and the links are broken.
I'm not saying I believe he reverse engineered the cable I sent him (he told me before he found another source). I'm not upset if he found another source for them or if he put the work into figuring out how to make them himself that I did. I'm upset he is posting the instructions (and pictures) I sent him for his personal use as though he came up with it and using my bandwidth because he's too lazy to rehost the pictures.
Video for the go pro Remote Start
YnotMotorSports Has remote start for the go pro hd 1 and 2 cameras is works off the bus port on the back of the cameras you can start it from the dash of your car control the battery life and sd card space with it it also has a led light to let you know that the camera is on or off i will post a link to the video of the cable and the way it works Copy and paste this link to your browser to see the cable
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwsSC...be_gdata_playe
The Price for the remote start without the led light is $59.95
With the led light it's $79.95
Shipping for the remote start is $9.95
My phone number is 434-632-6495
Leave message if no answer and I will return your call
I accept PayPal. My PayPal is. Ynotmotorsports@yahoo.com
If you pay by PayPal. Send it as a gift
This works with hd 1 and hd 2 cameras
hd 2 camera you don't need to upload the new software
Instructions. For remote start
to update firmware are here:
http://gopro.com/support/hd-hero-firmware-update/
Only install if you have the go pro hd 1. Only
Use the user manual to put the camera into one button mode:
http://gopro.com/wp-content/uploads/...ENG-110110.pdf
You will have to alter the case, but it's very easy -- almost like GoPro
planned for it. You'll want to modify the non-waterproof back (you'll be making
it even less waterproof).
Looking at the back of the camera case there are three foam pads, two vertical
and one horizontal. The vertical pad on the left lines up perfectly with the
Hero Bus plug (where this plugs into).
0) Free the non-waterproof housing back from the case if it's attached.
1) Pull off that rubber pad and you'll see a rounded rectangle imprinted into
the plastic. The imprinted shape on my case back that isn't cut out is the
outline around the smaller pad shown in this picture:
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_2037.jpg
2) Put on safety glasses
3) If you have access to a mill, mill out that imprinted area with a 1/4"
end mill.
3a) If not (I didn't, this is how I know it works) use a drill and a 1/4"
bit. Line up the bit so it drills at the center of the rounded ends, then use a
jig saw (dremel with cutoff wheel may work) and cut along the lines to remove
the rest of the indented area.
When you're done it should look like this:
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_2036.jpg
If you cut it right, when you reassemble the case, the plug should fit
perfectly into the camera through the slot you made. If it's tight on one side,
just use a file or something similar and shave away a little of the edge that's
tight (it's most likely the sides, not the curved area that'll be tight).
Final product assembled:
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_2035.jpg
YnotMotorSports Has remote start for the go pro hd 1 and 2 cameras is works off the bus port on the back of the cameras you can start it from the dash of your car control the battery life and sd card space with it it also has a led light to let you know that the camera is on or off i will post a link to the video of the cable and the way it works Copy and paste this link to your browser to see the cable
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwsSC...be_gdata_playe
The Price for the remote start without the led light is $59.95
With the led light it's $79.95
Shipping for the remote start is $9.95
My phone number is 434-632-6495
Leave message if no answer and I will return your call
I accept PayPal. My PayPal is. Ynotmotorsports@yahoo.com
If you pay by PayPal. Send it as a gift
This works with hd 1 and hd 2 cameras
hd 2 camera you don't need to upload the new software
Instructions. For remote start
to update firmware are here:
http://gopro.com/support/hd-hero-firmware-update/
Only install if you have the go pro hd 1. Only
Use the user manual to put the camera into one button mode:
http://gopro.com/wp-content/uploads/...ENG-110110.pdf
You will have to alter the case, but it's very easy -- almost like GoPro
planned for it. You'll want to modify the non-waterproof back (you'll be making
it even less waterproof).
Looking at the back of the camera case there are three foam pads, two vertical
and one horizontal. The vertical pad on the left lines up perfectly with the
Hero Bus plug (where this plugs into).
0) Free the non-waterproof housing back from the case if it's attached.
1) Pull off that rubber pad and you'll see a rounded rectangle imprinted into
the plastic. The imprinted shape on my case back that isn't cut out is the
outline around the smaller pad shown in this picture:
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_2037.jpg
2) Put on safety glasses
3) If you have access to a mill, mill out that imprinted area with a 1/4"
end mill.
3a) If not (I didn't, this is how I know it works) use a drill and a 1/4"
bit. Line up the bit so it drills at the center of the rounded ends, then use a
jig saw (dremel with cutoff wheel may work) and cut along the lines to remove
the rest of the indented area.
When you're done it should look like this:
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_2036.jpg
If you cut it right, when you reassemble the case, the plug should fit
perfectly into the camera through the slot you made. If it's tight on one side,
just use a file or something similar and shave away a little of the edge that's
tight (it's most likely the sides, not the curved area that'll be tight).
Final product assembled:
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_2035.jpg
Thanks. Guys I spent a lot of time making the cables I hand make them and test them 3 or more times before I ship them and I will stand by them as well , I thank everyone for there kind words. And word is getting out on them it's not a day that goes by I don't get and email from someone asking about them and saying what a great idea and how it made operating the camera easy and how much time on the sd card it saved them and the battery life as well. All your comments from everyone makes me proud I could help thanks again
Last edited by 101101; 04-22-2012 at 12:14 PM. Reason: forgot to hit subscribe
04-22-2012, 12:02 PM
#72
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I guess it's time to break out the 
04-22-2012, 12:48 PM
#73
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Durham, NC and Virginia International Raceway
Posts: 18,680
Received 2,836 Likes
on
1,670 Posts
Thanks for your work, OP, but it's Tony that has made these readily available, not you and I can assure you, he's not getting rich on this.
Nice first post, BTW.
__________________
-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
04-22-2012, 01:41 PM
#74
I'm kind of inclined to agree. You snooze, you lose. Tony took it to market first. Happens all the time.
04-22-2012, 01:42 PM
#75
3rd Gear
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To show I don't care who makes these, here's all the info you'd need to make your own (all readily available online with proper Google search terms):
- Pinout of the connector: http://chargeconverter.com/blog/?p=71
- Connector part number: 670-1021-ND from Digikey.com (or you can use the one from the linked site)
- Momentary push button
You're welcome