Here goes...winter storage started (pics)
#1
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Thread Starter
Here goes...winter storage started (pics)
Because of the upcoming long AZ trek and the inbound storm, it was time to get cars put away.
This morning, filled up with ethanol-free gas
Drove over to Phil's place where one of the cars is stored
Up on the tire cradles
There are permanent charger leads on the cars, so putting on the trickle charger is a breeze and the trunk can be closed
Cover, goodbye car, sleep well, it was a nice season.
This morning, filled up with ethanol-free gas
Drove over to Phil's place where one of the cars is stored
Up on the tire cradles
There are permanent charger leads on the cars, so putting on the trickle charger is a breeze and the trunk can be closed
Cover, goodbye car, sleep well, it was a nice season.
#3
Pocket Sand
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Good idea on the permanent leads.
Out of curiosity, is filling up the car with gas necessary? I got lazy this year with the RX and left the tank empty on reserve, with the intention of filling up with some Shell V-Power next spring so as not to have the engine suck in a bad batch of gas. I don't see the harm in that but given that the convention is to fill up, I'm curious as to why?
Out of curiosity, is filling up the car with gas necessary? I got lazy this year with the RX and left the tank empty on reserve, with the intention of filling up with some Shell V-Power next spring so as not to have the engine suck in a bad batch of gas. I don't see the harm in that but given that the convention is to fill up, I'm curious as to why?
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#8
Race Car
Just had a full inspection and oil change done at Phaff.
I wash, wax & detail.
Put in the stabilizer before filling up so it runs through the whole fuel system.
Make sure your battery has fluid and if you remove the battery, do not store directly on concrete.
Been doing this with my snowmobiles for years.
Oh and I put the "Dri Z Air" dehumidifier pellets inside to absorb any moisture that could occur during storage. Learned this part from the RV crowd and it works very well. $20 at CDN Tire.
Kiss good night and cover. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
I wash, wax & detail.
Put in the stabilizer before filling up so it runs through the whole fuel system.
Make sure your battery has fluid and if you remove the battery, do not store directly on concrete.
Been doing this with my snowmobiles for years.
Oh and I put the "Dri Z Air" dehumidifier pellets inside to absorb any moisture that could occur during storage. Learned this part from the RV crowd and it works very well. $20 at CDN Tire.
Kiss good night and cover. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK to fill the car up with ethanol free , since less space for water laden air that can condense into the fuel.
Gas takes around 6 months to start deteriorate but a large amount of ethanol in the it will cause the RON to drop after 100ish days - also ethanol absorbs water - not good for the engine.
Gas takes around 6 months to start deteriorate but a large amount of ethanol in the it will cause the RON to drop after 100ish days - also ethanol absorbs water - not good for the engine.
#10
I know we went over this last year, but food for thought...
I run the car almost to empty, then add about a 1/8 tank of gas with enough stabilizer (per instructions) at the gas station. I Drive it home to get it through the fuel system, then in the spring, I fill up the other 7/8th to dilute the stabilizer.
My problem is that my 911 is my second car so I drive it until the last possible day, 'cause having only one family car is a hassle. Sometimes it's hard to get the fuel stabilized, the car washed and dry, all based on Mother Nature's unpredictable schedule.
I run the car almost to empty, then add about a 1/8 tank of gas with enough stabilizer (per instructions) at the gas station. I Drive it home to get it through the fuel system, then in the spring, I fill up the other 7/8th to dilute the stabilizer.
My problem is that my 911 is my second car so I drive it until the last possible day, 'cause having only one family car is a hassle. Sometimes it's hard to get the fuel stabilized, the car washed and dry, all based on Mother Nature's unpredictable schedule.
#11
Race Car
While I do think a few months of a half-full tank isn't going to be much cause for concern for rust, the absolute last thing you want is rust in your gas tank. Some of you guys might remember I was chasing ghosts with a performance issue - I'd take the car to the track and after 2 or 3 laps I was down at about 50% power. I would be in 4th gear, 4500 rpm on the back straight at Mosport and actually slowing down. I replaced most of my ignition components, plugs, wires, even changed engines, figuring my engine was tired. In the end, the culprit was rust bits, flakes and chunks in the gas tank, clogging up the filter screen on the outlet port. After I sloshed the gas around for a few minutes at the track, the crap at the bottom of the tank would get stirred up and cover/clog the outlet. I had to disconnect everything, remove the tank and cleaned it very thoroughly. That's not a bad job on an early 911, because the tank and fittings are very easy to access. On most other cars, though, it would be a lot more difficult.
#12
I like those race ramps. I got new wheels and tires this year, so it's the first time the car will sit in storage on them. I noticed when I took her out for the fall drive, there was a slight vibration untill they warmed up. She had been sitting for 3 weeks.
I think I'm going to get a set of race ramps to be safe.
Thanks for posting
I think I'm going to get a set of race ramps to be safe.
Thanks for posting
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
There are better cars in the lot, and it has a boomerang so no worries. I have learned ov er the years that its just stuff. Its the experience that counts
#15
Drifting
condensation is more of an issue with metal tanks.... I wonder if late model Porsches have plastic tanks?
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