Paying for M030 installation? I did it myself.
03-19-2004, 03:05 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Paying for M030 installation? I did it myself.
I wonder how much are people payong for installing a M030 springs and shocks? I can't imagine paying for it. I just finished doing it last night. I started at 9:30 and finished by Midnight. 2 1/2 hours and all I have to do is go get the car aligned.
I changed from my eibachs because I added the aero bumper and side skirts. The lower front skirt on the new bumper would scrape on my drive way unless I really really go in at an angle. I don't mind angling in, but this was way too much. I was hoping the M030 would raise the car by 1/2 inch so far so good it does look slightly higher, and I did not have to angle as much as I did before.
If anyone wants the eibach they're for sale.
I drove the car this morning and this is my feeling of the M030 compared to the eibachs I had. To me the front is softer than the eibachs it rools over the bumps smoother, but the rear does feel stiffer than the eibachs. The overall handling has changed. It seem more biased to oversteer than my previous set up. Overall the ride is good, but it is hard to compare the comfort level to my previous set up since the front is softer and the rear is stiffer. Iwould say they have similar levels of comfort just different.
I changed from my eibachs because I added the aero bumper and side skirts. The lower front skirt on the new bumper would scrape on my drive way unless I really really go in at an angle. I don't mind angling in, but this was way too much. I was hoping the M030 would raise the car by 1/2 inch so far so good it does look slightly higher, and I did not have to angle as much as I did before.
If anyone wants the eibach they're for sale.
I drove the car this morning and this is my feeling of the M030 compared to the eibachs I had. To me the front is softer than the eibachs it rools over the bumps smoother, but the rear does feel stiffer than the eibachs. The overall handling has changed. It seem more biased to oversteer than my previous set up. Overall the ride is good, but it is hard to compare the comfort level to my previous set up since the front is softer and the rear is stiffer. Iwould say they have similar levels of comfort just different.
03-19-2004, 07:20 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Re Boo Install
The Front is the hard part. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. You may nee a spring compressor to remove the old spring but not the new ones.
1. Remove the shorud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. t-20
2. Loosen the 18mm sway bar bolt that is in strut and remove
3. Loosen and remove the nuts that connect abs wires and brake line so you can move the arm more up and down. You might have to take out the caliper off the hub.
4. remove the 3 13mm bolts from the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body.
5. Push down the arm and the strut will be in the wheel well.
6. this is the hard part push down the strut and pull it towards you to pull out of the wheel well. Becareful not to hit your fender`. You might need to remove the 18 mm blot that conects the cross arm in the front to the main A arm so the arm has more movement. I did not need to.
7. once cleared you can slide out the strut from the spindle assembly and prepare the new one.
8. Remove the 21mm nut on top of the strut. Becareful I used a impact air wrench and push your weight down so the spring dosenot pop up in your face. The stock spring are not that strong so you can do this. Pay attention to how it comes appart. Put all the necessary parts on the new strut( bumpstop washer housing) and assemeble back wards. The new springs are shorter so the assemble may not have any tension.
9. If your car has Xenon lights remove the little sensor nuts that is hook up to the A arm. This is in the driver side.
Rear easy
1. Remove the long 18mm bolt connecting the strut to the arm.
2. Disconnect both sides of the sway bar. 17mm open end and 15mm nut
the bar should swing easy on the mounts.
3.Use pry bar, screwdriver to force the shock of its mount.
4. Go in the car remove the pannel behind the rear seat. It has no clips.
5. Remove the 3 15mm nuts to drop the strut. Once the strut is droped you can prepare the new one. It is similar to preparing the front. Use the new bump stops. The nut on top is 18MM.
6. install the strut back in the housing and don't tighten yet.
7. place a jack under the shock to compress it so you can put it on the arm. It kind of hard. You need to be a little strong. Once on the arm the bolt wont align. Use a screw driver to lift up the shock just a little on the arm so you can push the bolt through. Once through assemble every thing back.
Remember you need jack stands, and impact wrench. I use air tools so I could do it faster. I imagine a first timer need about 4-5 hours. The sway bar were done already. The rear is easy, the front is kind of a pain. You have to unbolt a lot to get the bar out. I imagine the bars take at least 1 hour for the front and 15 minutes for the back.
1. Remove the shorud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. t-20
2. Loosen the 18mm sway bar bolt that is in strut and remove
3. Loosen and remove the nuts that connect abs wires and brake line so you can move the arm more up and down. You might have to take out the caliper off the hub.
4. remove the 3 13mm bolts from the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body.
5. Push down the arm and the strut will be in the wheel well.
6. this is the hard part push down the strut and pull it towards you to pull out of the wheel well. Becareful not to hit your fender`. You might need to remove the 18 mm blot that conects the cross arm in the front to the main A arm so the arm has more movement. I did not need to.
7. once cleared you can slide out the strut from the spindle assembly and prepare the new one.
8. Remove the 21mm nut on top of the strut. Becareful I used a impact air wrench and push your weight down so the spring dosenot pop up in your face. The stock spring are not that strong so you can do this. Pay attention to how it comes appart. Put all the necessary parts on the new strut( bumpstop washer housing) and assemeble back wards. The new springs are shorter so the assemble may not have any tension.
9. If your car has Xenon lights remove the little sensor nuts that is hook up to the A arm. This is in the driver side.
Rear easy
1. Remove the long 18mm bolt connecting the strut to the arm.
2. Disconnect both sides of the sway bar. 17mm open end and 15mm nut
the bar should swing easy on the mounts.
3.Use pry bar, screwdriver to force the shock of its mount.
4. Go in the car remove the pannel behind the rear seat. It has no clips.
5. Remove the 3 15mm nuts to drop the strut. Once the strut is droped you can prepare the new one. It is similar to preparing the front. Use the new bump stops. The nut on top is 18MM.
6. install the strut back in the housing and don't tighten yet.
7. place a jack under the shock to compress it so you can put it on the arm. It kind of hard. You need to be a little strong. Once on the arm the bolt wont align. Use a screw driver to lift up the shock just a little on the arm so you can push the bolt through. Once through assemble every thing back.
Remember you need jack stands, and impact wrench. I use air tools so I could do it faster. I imagine a first timer need about 4-5 hours. The sway bar were done already. The rear is easy, the front is kind of a pain. You have to unbolt a lot to get the bar out. I imagine the bars take at least 1 hour for the front and 15 minutes for the back.
