PorKen

(*Updated*)

16V to 32V adjustable cam gear conversion kits are ready for sale!

Kits include two cam gear hubs, machined to fit 16V camshafts, hardware, two pointers for easy setup, and installation manual. Fits under stock timing belt covers.



Additionally, you'll need new or used 32V cam gears (Jerry calls them sprockets ).
HTD 32V camshaft gear - sprocket - 928.105.530.01 or 928.105.530.00

78-82 will need to upgrade to HTD (round tooth) crank and oil pump gears as well.
HTD oil pump gear - oil pump sprocket - 928.107.107.13
HTD crankshaft gear - crank sprocket - 928.105.125.12



Here is the installation manual in PDF format, you may want to right-click and select 'Save Target As...'. (16V32VGearSetup2_0.pdf 513KB)

Please post or PM me if there's something in the manual that you think I need to include or is incorrect!


PS: If you can't get hold of me through Rennlist via PM or email, use this email address: cams AT mrtubby DOT net

John Struthers

Pdf: "If your lucky" ?

heinrich

Ken I realised this am ... my Euro uses an LH .... and HTD.

PorKen

John Struthers,

Sometimes only the cam gear moves, sometimes everything moves. I didn't know how else to say it.
...

heinrich,

Which is even better for you?

LH-Jet and it's buddy EZK get their ignition signal from the crank, not the camshaft, so no ignition timing adjustment is needed. All 32V and 83 up are all HTD gears.

You should have some 32V gears lying around...

928ntslow

Porken, have you inspected the 32 valve hubs for stress cracks? What kind of density checks have you run after machining these down thinner? Not trying to throw water on the fire, but there is a potential catasthrophie if these are too thin.

BC

Anyone got any GOOD used HTD *Oil* and *crank* cogs?

drnick

porken, despite following your previous threads im still a little confused as to which cars this is designed for and the exact result desired. is it useable on the euro cars with MAF and LH injection? is the intended function to better time the mechanical components ie crank and two cylinder banks? why is it an improvement over the stock configuration?

PorKen

~All 16V, adjustable valve timing as on 32V cars

~Yes, it's A-OK for CIS, AFC, AFM, L, MAF, LH, EZK and it's DIY

~Yes, the stock cam timing may be upwards of half a tooth off (3.25 cam degrees) in relation to the crank. Both cams will usually be advanced or retarded by a different amount.

~Syncronizing both cams with the crankshaft makes for a smoother running engine, gives a better idle, can give more torque even adjusted straight up.

Further, advancing both cams a few degrees gives a nice boost to the lower end, especially for the three speed auto, with a loss in HP only detectable on the dyno. I can't say from my own experience but retarding might be good for supercharging, for better exhaust breathing; the 944 turbo guys do it.

I'm running with 4 degrees cam advance (8 degree at the crankshaft) which makes acceleration a lot more 'right now' instead of 'just wait until 3500 rpm'.

For myself, it's also one small step towards a variable valve timing system.

sparks

Ken, I'll take a set. I'm down in Salem, so I can pick them up. PM me.

spare time toys

So this kit is two hubs with new offset keyways and the pointers. you run four deg can advance and it works best on your car. No other special tools required?

PorKen

The hubs are only shortened, and the original keyway is retained. The 32V cam gear (you supply) has slots in it which give about +-7.5 degrees (one tooth advance or retard) adjustment.



I run 4 degrees advance with my '81 cams, which are the weakest of the bunch (80-82 US), different years may do better with more or less, or even retarded. Even if you stay with the factory settings, it will usually run better, because most 16V cam gears are at least a few degrees off the mark.

More than about 6 degrees advance on my car made less power, other cams may tolerate more. 4 degrees advance on my car easily chirps the tires at stoplights on dry pavement.

The pointers are used for setup, then removed. No other tools are needed, other than those used for a regular timing belt change.

PorKen

I've changed to a much easier method of adjustment. A spacer is used so that the cam bolt can be tightened to the cam, but the gear is still free.



So all you have to do is set the balancer to the desired position, then move the cams with a 17mm wrench, and using the pointers, line up the marks. Sooo much easier...and luck is no longer a factor.

Garth S

Ken,
Another slick idea . I assume that after the timing exercise is complete, the spacer is removed to allow the end bolt to apply clamping force between the gear/hub assembly and the flange on the cam. Otherwise, all rotational forces are absorbed by the keyways - for a while .....
- or did I misunderstand your note?

PorKen

Thanks Garth!

I wrote in the installation manual to remove them, but I put in the warnings section now too, plus some other info.
...

The installation manual has been updated above.

I will have (3) kits based on used hubs, and (1) based on new, back from the machine shop next week, 01/05/05.

It may be some time before/if I will have more made, given the response.

SharkSkin

Ken, I'd like the new set. I'm not due for a TB for another 45K miles, but I don't mind letting the parts sit on the shelf. I had thought you would keep a set or two in stock, but after reading your post above I figure I'd best make my move. There was no reason to move to HTD when I had my TB done... the gears all looked new. But, this will prompt me to add a set of cam sprockets here, a crank or oil pump sprocket there to my various 928 orders over the next several months. If you don't have any problems by the time I'm ready to put it together, I'll consider the design "proven".