Built me some one jack lift and jackstand bars
01-13-2006, 09:57 PM
#1
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Built me some one jack lift and jackstand bars
Buddy of mine is on vacation, and left me the keys to his metalwork shop*.
Now I can lift the whole side of the car at a time, even with my sissy Harbor Freight jack, and have a safe place to put sturdy jack stands.
(Update: Production Version)
* You're darn right I've been there every day!
Now I can lift the whole side of the car at a time, even with my sissy Harbor Freight jack, and have a safe place to put sturdy jack stands.
(Update: Production Version)
* You're darn right I've been there every day!
Last edited by PorKen; 02-27-2006 at 02:35 PM.
01-13-2006, 10:01 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
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There you go thinking again... Great idea BTW...what is that, a piece of square stock, about 1 1/4" square..or what material did you choose for the front to rear lift bar ??? 
01-13-2006, 10:04 PM
#3
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Awesome job, I remember last year there was a thread about building one of those. Nice to see someone tried it. Its something I've been thinking about since jacking up my lowered track car is a real POS.
How much does each unit weigh?
How much does each unit weigh?
01-13-2006, 10:52 PM
#6
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Jeff,
The main part is 2" sch.40 pipe*, so it has a 3/16" wall. (The angle iron is 3/16" too.) I used pipe, because I wanted the bar to be able to rotate on the jack stands as I lifted the other side.
I made the bar so it cannot rotate as the car is jacked up, and the jack angle changes.
...
Hacker,
I've wanted something like this even before that lumber(!) thread. My eventual goal is to have the car safely high enough so when I make a drivetrain dolly (
), I can lower everything at once.
They weigh 23bs each.
...
Rod,
With the prototype bar, I found that the tip point on my car was right in the middle of the door. I ended up centering it between the jack points, to even the load. The other side is always on two points, so it still lifts straight up.
* I learned today that pipe is measured by the ID, and tube, OD.
The main part is 2" sch.40 pipe*, so it has a 3/16" wall. (The angle iron is 3/16" too.) I used pipe, because I wanted the bar to be able to rotate on the jack stands as I lifted the other side.
I made the bar so it cannot rotate as the car is jacked up, and the jack angle changes.
...
Hacker,
I've wanted something like this even before that lumber(!) thread. My eventual goal is to have the car safely high enough so when I make a drivetrain dolly (
), I can lower everything at once.They weigh 23bs each.
...
Rod,
With the prototype bar, I found that the tip point on my car was right in the middle of the door. I ended up centering it between the jack points, to even the load. The other side is always on two points, so it still lifts straight up.
* I learned today that pipe is measured by the ID, and tube, OD.
01-13-2006, 10:55 PM
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Porken,
In the wood thread I was thinking about using 2x4 rectangle steel tubes - using a round tube is a very good idea. I'm going to talk to Todd, see if he will help me make up a set. With my 79 so low, my jack does not fit under the rear cross member unless I drive up on a 2x6.
In the wood thread I was thinking about using 2x4 rectangle steel tubes - using a round tube is a very good idea. I'm going to talk to Todd, see if he will help me make up a set. With my 79 so low, my jack does not fit under the rear cross member unless I drive up on a 2x6.
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01-13-2006, 11:11 PM
#8
Gluteus Maximus
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I was thinking about making a set of those with legs that fold out, so you wouldn't even need the jackstands. It's be nice because then you could just prop 'em up against the wall when you're done with them - no jackstands to bang your shins into. Thought it's be a little more sturcy too since the legs would be attached to the bars.
01-14-2006, 10:34 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by PorKen
Jeff,
The main part is 2" sch.40 pipe*, so it has a 3/16" wall. (The angle iron is 3/16" too.) I used pipe, because I wanted the bar to be able to rotate on the jack stands as I lifted the other side.
I made the bar so it cannot rotate as the car is jacked up, and the jack angle changes.
...
Hacker,
I've wanted something like this even before that lumber(!) thread. My eventual goal is to have the car safely high enough so when I make a drivetrain dolly ( ), I can lower everything at once.
They weigh 23bs each.
...
Rod,
With the prototype bar, I found that the tip point on my car was right in the middle of the door. I ended up centering it between the jack points, to even the load. The other side is always on two points, so it still lifts straight up.
* I learned today that pipe is measured by the ID, and tube, OD.
The main part is 2" sch.40 pipe*, so it has a 3/16" wall. (The angle iron is 3/16" too.) I used pipe, because I wanted the bar to be able to rotate on the jack stands as I lifted the other side.
I made the bar so it cannot rotate as the car is jacked up, and the jack angle changes.
...
Hacker,
I've wanted something like this even before that lumber(!) thread. My eventual goal is to have the car safely high enough so when I make a drivetrain dolly (
), I can lower everything at once.They weigh 23bs each.
...
Rod,
With the prototype bar, I found that the tip point on my car was right in the middle of the door. I ended up centering it between the jack points, to even the load. The other side is always on two points, so it still lifts straight up.
* I learned today that pipe is measured by the ID, and tube, OD.
Great!, I have some rectangular tube left over from a couple of trailers I built this summer, so your idea is a definite do the next time I can get out to the shop. I typically put ramps under the wheels when I raise it, but the lift points in the front conflict with the ramps unless I use them backwards. This will make everything a lot easier.
You also had some cam timing devices that I read about on some old posts, I think. Do you still have any of these, they're on my list when I hit the lottery.
Thanks
Rod
01-14-2006, 10:50 AM
#11
Man of many SIGs
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Great idea Ken. I am deff. gonna build a couple of those. I have always struggled with jack stand placement when using the jacking point. Now I can see the light.
QUOTE... posted by Porken: "* I learned today that pipe is measured by the ID, and tube, OD."
Actually, its the other way around.
QUOTE... posted by Porken: "* I learned today that pipe is measured by the ID, and tube, OD."
Actually, its the other way around.
01-14-2006, 04:28 PM
#12
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I didn't use square tube, because I was worried about the stands pushing over when I jacked up the other side. With pipe, the bar (and car) rotate on the stands.
The 'secret' of my design is the offset smaller tube on top. It fits in a channel behind the spot weld seam which runs the length of the cabin. This distributes the load on the entire body, not just the jack points. It also stops the bar from rotating when jacking or when on the stands. The center angle iron is not only for the jack to fit on, but to force the bar to rotate inward*, locking the bar into the jack point holes.
Drivers side only lifted / Parts
I doodled this thing for weeks; to be low profile**, have as few parts as possible, and be repeatably accurate for me to weld up. I also wanted it to be very strong, but not weigh over 50lbs for both.
Hopefully this week I will send it out for sandblasting and powdercoating. But what color? Orange?
* I found that by jacking on the pipe only, the bar wants to rotate and push outward, as the angle of the car body changes with lifting.
** So a jack could still fit under the bar on a lowered 928.
The 'secret' of my design is the offset smaller tube on top. It fits in a channel behind the spot weld seam which runs the length of the cabin. This distributes the load on the entire body, not just the jack points. It also stops the bar from rotating when jacking or when on the stands. The center angle iron is not only for the jack to fit on, but to force the bar to rotate inward*, locking the bar into the jack point holes.
Drivers side only lifted / Parts
I doodled this thing for weeks; to be low profile**, have as few parts as possible, and be repeatably accurate for me to weld up. I also wanted it to be very strong, but not weigh over 50lbs for both.
Hopefully this week I will send it out for sandblasting and powdercoating. But what color? Orange?
* I found that by jacking on the pipe only, the bar wants to rotate and push outward, as the angle of the car body changes with lifting.
** So a jack could still fit under the bar on a lowered 928.
01-14-2006, 07:43 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by PorKen
I didn't use square tube, because I was worried about the stands pushing over when I jacked up the other side. With pipe, the bar (and car) rotate on the stands.
The 'secret' of my design is the offset smaller tube on top. It fits in a channel behind the spot weld seam which runs the length of the cabin. This distributes the load on the entire body, not just the jack points. It also stops the bar from rotating when jacking or when on the stands. The center angle iron is not only for the jack to fit on, but to force the bar to rotate inward*, locking the bar into the jack point holes.
Drivers side only lifted / Parts
I doodled this thing for weeks; to be low profile**, have as few parts as possible, and be repeatably accurate for me to weld up. I also wanted it to be very strong, but not weigh over 50lbs for both.
Hopefully this week I will send it out for sandblasting and powdercoating. But what color? Orange?
* I found that by jacking on the pipe only, the bar wants to rotate and push outward, as the angle of the car body changes with lifting.
** So a jack could still fit under the bar on a lowered 928.
The 'secret' of my design is the offset smaller tube on top. It fits in a channel behind the spot weld seam which runs the length of the cabin. This distributes the load on the entire body, not just the jack points. It also stops the bar from rotating when jacking or when on the stands. The center angle iron is not only for the jack to fit on, but to force the bar to rotate inward*, locking the bar into the jack point holes.
Drivers side only lifted / Parts
I doodled this thing for weeks; to be low profile**, have as few parts as possible, and be repeatably accurate for me to weld up. I also wanted it to be very strong, but not weigh over 50lbs for both.
Hopefully this week I will send it out for sandblasting and powdercoating. But what color? Orange?
* I found that by jacking on the pipe only, the bar wants to rotate and push outward, as the angle of the car body changes with lifting.
** So a jack could still fit under the bar on a lowered 928.
Thanks for the heads up.
Rod