zehnd

So what do you think happened. Below is a freshly painted wheel with OEM Wurth paint and clear coat. As soon as I shot the clear coat it went a darker grey. Before the clear coat it matched pretty close.

Is it possible that I have the wrong paint? It's white aluminum paint. Do I need clear coat on?

I left the paint cure overnight and shot the clear.

Now it looks like clear coated grey primer.

Any suggestions.

xsboost90

what kind of clear did you use?

zehnd

Wurth's

xsboost90

hmm, is that an enamel? Ive had problems w/ paint doing that when
1. its too cold..

2.spraying the clear way too heavy ..

3.the base color isnt dry enough.

zehnd

It's Lacquer. The garage was about 15C, not room temp (20C).

Could be possible I sprayed to heavy.

It should be no problem to reshoot the paint and start over.

Should I resand lightly. What do you think?

Thanks

Scootin159

pardon my ignorance....but what's wrong with it? Is it possible that just the white (towels) background vs. the black (tire) background is making it seem darker?

zehnd

Its definitely two different colors.

When I put the non painted wheel cap beside, it's lighter than the new painted wheel.

Before I put the clear on it matched pretty close. Another photo.

Manning

I've heard of that happening with Wurths. XSBoost90 hit it on the head I think.

xsboost90

if they dry enough, maybe tommorrow, wetsand w/ some 500grit sandpaper and then respray, lightly, make sure the garage or whereever is nice and warm, and then let it dry before you clear.

zehnd

Thanks, xsboost.

I've cranked the heat up. Should be toasty warm for the next couple days.

Redshift

I went through the exact same thing with the Wurth paints. Temperature has nothing to do with your results. The solvent in the clear paint is lifting the silver beneath.

Because of this you need to spray "wet on wet"... The clear needs to be applied before the silver has a chance to dry.

zehnd

Shaun - aka "Mideastmafia" swore by this method, any one else?

nine-44

Humidity also will make the paint look cloudy or white. Too humid and it will "blush"

mideastmafia

some tips:

1. Shoot the clear while the base is still wet. (Immediatley after painting the base)
2. Spray it in the sun and let it dry in the sun.
3. Only do 2 coats of base and about 4 coats of clear.

you should have no problem if you do it this way..


SHAUN

adrian_jaye

Redshift is right, needs to be shot when its wet.

Heres a partial FAQ (from Not Just Porsche)

NOT FULL VERSION=======================================

OK, down to basics.

Gloss from the gun/can is achieved through even application of paint.. for
it to gloss from a gun, or can, the following has to be correct.

1. Distance between the nozzle and the surface. too far and the paint
will begin to dry before it hits the panel (dry looking and dull, a little
like sandpaper).. too close and too much paint will be applied too quickly... Air (propellant) pressure also comes into this as higher pressure air (propellant) will cause the paint to move at higher speed, which
effectively reduces the distance, too low a pressure and the paint will not
be atomized into fine molecules which would result in paint droplets hitting
the panel.

2. Coat thickness. (edited out - full version on Not Just Porsche)

3. Preparation. For a good gloss, the surface that the paint is applied
to must be perfectly smooth and without texture, while still having a
microscopic surface finish keying (flatted of with 1200 - 800 grit wet
paper)

Now with a can, the problem is that the spray pattern is circular, which has
a result, that as you spray in a line, the centre of the line picks up more
paint... the effect of this is that the paint is either too thick in the middle and too thin at the sides (gloss in the middle, dry sand paper look at the outside.)

Another problem with a can, is that the air is not at a precise regulated
pressure. So when you start, the pressure (therefore delivery rate) is high,
and as the can empties, the pressure (delivery rate) is low... so you have
to watch your distances and application speed with cans because as the
pressure in the can decreases, so the delivery rate will decrease.

There are a few things you can do to improve application using cans, here
are some tips.

1. Paint flows and atomises better when warm, so warm up the cans in a
bowl of warm (not boiling, but hot tap temperature) water before you use
them, if your doing a large area, that's going to use more than one can, or
more than one coat, then keep the water warm, and keep your other cans
standing in the bowl while your using another, or between coats. This also
has the effect of slightly increasing the pressure of the propellant which
is desirable.

2. Paint not only flows from a can better when warm, but the paint, when
it hits a warm surface, will flow better too, with the molecules more happy
to flow into each other when warm, increasing the chances of a good gloss.
Another side effect of a warm surface/panel, is that the paint will dry
faster once applied, and more importantly dry evenly throughout its depth
(avoiding orange peel)... so warm the panel a little with a hair dryer or hot air gun before you shoot the paint... but as well as this, while spraying, keep the can in one hand, with the hot air gun/hair dryer in the other following the action of the spay gun... but keep the heat source moving or swirling to avoid a build up of heat in a localised area...

another idea is to keep the heat setting on a hot air gun to a minimum, and
on a hair dryer to a medium setting.. otherwise you will blister the previous or fresh paint..

3. Shake the cans (Edited out full version on Not Just Porsche)

5. If your using a gun, a trick is to place a few (ultra clean) ball bearings in the paint pot on the gun. this allows you to swirl the gun after each pass so the paint stays mixed by the action of the ball bearings pushing through the paint and stops the paint solids from settling to the bottom of the pot (along with keeping metallic particles on a metallic job, well mixed and applied in equal amounts from pass to pass and stroke to stroke).

6. Pattern is important, paint in straight lines, with the can/gun at a right angle to the surface AT all times, each pass should overlap the previous one by 25 - 50%.

If your using a standard nozzle on a can, do one coat on a horizontal axis
(as overlapping stripes painted left to right), the next on a vertical one
(again overlapping stripes going from top to bottom)... with a gun, stick to
horizontal stripes.

7. Paint is more likely to run on corners for several reasons. So its a good idea to paint any corners as your first coats... with corners like wheel arches, or other edges, rather than this first coat being applied in straight lines, it should be applied in strokes that follow the lines of the car, but again overlap your bands if your painting more than one pass. On later coats of the flatter areas, spray your bands regardless of the corners and treat them as if they were not edges at all, just be cautious of not applying to much to them on later coats.

COATS:

One of the most important things (edited out full version on Not Just Porsche)

With solid single stage schemes (edited out full version on Not Just Porsche)

PLEASE NOTE =========================================
On these twin stage schemes, the lacquer should be applied as with any other coat, meaning that it needs to be applied while the base is still slightly tacky,otherwise later you will be a victim to the famous lifting lacquer syndrome.
PLEASE NOTE===========================================


A word of warning with lacquer (mostly from cans), do not apply the coats
too thick, otherwise it will go milky... you need to use JUST enough for a
gloss on each coat.

PLEASE NOTE==========================================
A tip with lacquer, is that the more coats you apply, the deeper the finish
will look... imagine the lacquer is a coat of glass, thick glass will look like a deeper finish than thin glass, the same is true with lacquer.
PLEASE NOTE======================================