Dyno done
11-13-2003, 12:03 AM
#1
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Dyno done
1981 US 4.5L Auto, 130K miles
Deleted: engine driven fan, air pump, gas vent system, cat
Stock silver plugs, ignition wires
Open airbox, crankcase vent
Adjustable cam advance
3" single exhaust
002,004 are with the cams advanced ~3 degrees
____002 ignition advance ~29 degrees
____004 ignition retarded to 23 degrees (to try and combat sputtering at 5800RPM)
005,006 are stock, ignition 23 degrees
Notes:
Factory numbers: HP 220@5500, TQ 265@4000
With a 20% handicap for the auto, the numbers match the factory specs?
This thing was a slug when I first bought the car, and now it is sooo much faster. So what do these numbers mean?
Every time it sputtered at around 5700-5800 (testing stopped), not enough fuel?
(With a sniffer in the tailpipe, it registered really lean.)
I need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator!
The exhaust roar was awesome at full throttle with the cams advanced (less so without). The garage guys said: "Nice sound".
What I was looking for:
If I am reading the detailed RPM/HP number list correctly, advancing the cams ~3 degrees moved the levels down ~600 RPM, upped the max torque, with only a small loss of peak HP.
Peak HP came at 4700 RPM/~116 MPH advanced, versus 5300/~133 stock.
Peak torque was below the test starting RPM point on most of the runs
, but the numbers tend to show <3300 RPM while advanced, 3900RPM stock.
*Update*
Deleted: engine driven fan, air pump, gas vent system, cat
Stock silver plugs, ignition wires
Open airbox, crankcase vent
Adjustable cam advance
3" single exhaust
002,004 are with the cams advanced ~3 degrees
____002 ignition advance ~29 degrees
____004 ignition retarded to 23 degrees (to try and combat sputtering at 5800RPM)
005,006 are stock, ignition 23 degrees
Notes:
Factory numbers: HP 220@5500, TQ 265@4000
With a 20% handicap for the auto, the numbers match the factory specs?
This thing was a slug when I first bought the car, and now it is sooo much faster. So what do these numbers mean?
Every time it sputtered at around 5700-5800 (testing stopped), not enough fuel?
(With a sniffer in the tailpipe, it registered really lean.)
I need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator!
The exhaust roar was awesome at full throttle with the cams advanced (less so without). The garage guys said: "Nice sound".
What I was looking for:
If I am reading the detailed RPM/HP number list correctly, advancing the cams ~3 degrees moved the levels down ~600 RPM, upped the max torque, with only a small loss of peak HP.
Peak HP came at 4700 RPM/~116 MPH advanced, versus 5300/~133 stock.
Peak torque was below the test starting RPM point on most of the runs
, but the numbers tend to show <3300 RPM while advanced, 3900RPM stock.*Update*
Last edited by PorKen; 11-22-2003 at 03:43 PM.
11-13-2003, 12:09 AM
#2
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The dyno operator wasn't consistent with the start of the runs.
How to measure with a 3 speed auto without the box kicking down, at lower RPM's, where I really wanted the numbers?
I did unplug the electric kickdown after the first run and that helped, do I need to unplug the cable too?
How to measure with a 3 speed auto without the box kicking down, at lower RPM's, where I really wanted the numbers?
I did unplug the electric kickdown after the first run and that helped, do I need to unplug the cable too?
11-13-2003, 01:26 AM
#3
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On the S4's (4spd auto) atleast, you have to take the actual KICKDOWN cable off the throttle linkage on the side of the manifold and disconnect the kickdown swicth behind the gas pedal. With the selector in "2" (4spd here)..the car starts in 1st. Get the dyno rolling..then do a 2-3-2 shift with the selector. This gets 2nd gear at a relative slow speed. Now if you floor it, the tranny will NEVER kick down. It has no electrical signal or the physical connection to do the job. It will run to redline in 2nd gear without up or down shifting.
Im not too familiar with your MY but the physical kickdown cable connection to the tranny probably has to be unhooked somewhere to prevent the kickdowns.
Im not too familiar with your MY but the physical kickdown cable connection to the tranny probably has to be unhooked somewhere to prevent the kickdowns.
11-13-2003, 01:48 PM
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Anyone tested on the 3-speed?
Do I have to 2-3-2 on this one too after removing the kickdown cable?
Do I have to 2-3-2 on this one too after removing the kickdown cable?
