Key not working
06-11-2004, 04:20 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2003
Location: FL Space Coast
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It sounds like you need to visit the dealer and have them re-program the key to the car (hoping that it's not a fault in the car itself). And get another key w/remote if you've only got one as the car should have come with two remote keys and a "spare" key Porsche seems to think will fit in a wallet.
07-19-2004, 12:07 PM
#19
Drifting
TSB 20/03 9662 Replacing The Key Remote Control Battery (dated 06-25-04) describes how changing the battery "incorrectly" can cause the processor to lock up and stop functioning. If this happens it instructs you to:
1.4 Check the function of the remote control.
Note: If the remote control does not function after replacing the battery, the processor could have stopped. If this is the case, the LED of the remote control either does not light when the button is pressed or it lights continuously, i.e., longer than length of time the button is pressed. The processor must be restarted. In this case, proceed as is described under Step 2.
2. Restarting the processor.
2.1 Remove battery as described under Step 1.2.
2.2 Inserting battery briefly with polarity reversed.
2.2.1 After a waiting time of at least 10 seconds, slide battery with the polarity of the battery reversed (positive terminal downwards) under the tab (Figure 1, arrow 2).
2.2.2 Clip battery downward into the holder.
2.2.3 After a waiting time of approx. 3 seconds, remove this incorrectly polarized battery again.
2.3 Install battery as described under Step 1.3.
2.4 Check the function of the remote control.
Note: If the remote control does not function after replacing the battery, the processor could have stopped. If this is the case, the LED of the remote control either does not light when the button is pressed or it lights continuously, i.e., longer than length of time the button is pressed. The processor must be restarted. In this case, proceed as is described under Step 2.
2. Restarting the processor.
2.1 Remove battery as described under Step 1.2.
2.2 Inserting battery briefly with polarity reversed.
2.2.1 After a waiting time of at least 10 seconds, slide battery with the polarity of the battery reversed (positive terminal downwards) under the tab (Figure 1, arrow 2).
2.2.2 Clip battery downward into the holder.
2.2.3 After a waiting time of approx. 3 seconds, remove this incorrectly polarized battery again.
2.3 Install battery as described under Step 1.3.
2.4 Check the function of the remote control.
07-19-2004, 08:41 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
OK, before we go any further tell me the answer to the following:
Can you open the door with the key using the door handle key lock?
Can you start the car with the key? Does it drive OK otherwise?
Is the problem just that you can't unlock/lock the doors with the key fob?
What about other electrics. Everything else seem to function ok?
Can you open the door with the key using the door handle key lock?
Can you start the car with the key? Does it drive OK otherwise?
Is the problem just that you can't unlock/lock the doors with the key fob?
What about other electrics. Everything else seem to function ok?
07-20-2004, 09:51 AM
#23
Three Wheelin'
I assume you checked the fuses. I mean metered them not just visually.
It could also be a faulty relay. Try reseating the relays in the fuse bay area
Just to be certain, ensure the rear console armrest is down and locked.
Ensure any glove compartment is closed and locked. The hood is pushed firm. My car won't lock/imobilise unless all these are closed/locked properly although it will emit a beep to tell me this fact.
It sounds like the problem could be the imobiliser/alarm circuitry. When you lock the car with the key in the door do you get the flashing dash LED? Does the car beep at all?
What about the central locking button in the dash. Does this work?
Failing this, it looks like a trip to the shop to fix it.
It could also be a faulty relay. Try reseating the relays in the fuse bay area
Just to be certain, ensure the rear console armrest is down and locked.
Ensure any glove compartment is closed and locked. The hood is pushed firm. My car won't lock/imobilise unless all these are closed/locked properly although it will emit a beep to tell me this fact.
It sounds like the problem could be the imobiliser/alarm circuitry. When you lock the car with the key in the door do you get the flashing dash LED? Does the car beep at all?
What about the central locking button in the dash. Does this work?
Failing this, it looks like a trip to the shop to fix it.
07-20-2004, 03:41 PM
#24
Racer
Thanks for the follow up.
I have tested all the fuses and they are good (Buss prong tester).
The central locking button on the dash works.
When I lock the car with the key, it locks all doors and the light on top of the dash blinks. Fast at first, then slower (if that means something).
I could try the relay, if I knew which one it was.
The console armrest is closed and the micro switch in it clicks. Hood's closed, but I have not verified the sensor there. Is it a micro switch? I have no glove box. Are there other sensors?
The beep you're referring to is the horn, right? My horn works about 3% of the time. So I'm not sure if it is trying to beep.
Thanks,
Darren
I have tested all the fuses and they are good (Buss prong tester).
The central locking button on the dash works.
When I lock the car with the key, it locks all doors and the light on top of the dash blinks. Fast at first, then slower (if that means something).
I could try the relay, if I knew which one it was.
The console armrest is closed and the micro switch in it clicks. Hood's closed, but I have not verified the sensor there. Is it a micro switch? I have no glove box. Are there other sensors?
The beep you're referring to is the horn, right? My horn works about 3% of the time. So I'm not sure if it is trying to beep.
Thanks,
Darren
07-20-2004, 06:12 PM
#25
Advanced
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Location: Dallas
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Darren, I had same problem last month. everything work but keyless entry. end up cost me $347 to get a new key. here is my suggestion: call the dealer order new head remote, fax them your insurance (they need this in order to get you new remote). call them back couple days later make sure the remote is in, schedule with service advisor to get the learning code for remote head. bring you car in have them re-program new head remote. the remote it self cost around $170 and plus programming time, usually half hour. I end up go down to dealer 3 trip... at least you can save 2 if you call first. =)
The new remote have 2 years warranty according to the service advisor.
Good luck!
Eddiemou
------------------------------
99 C2 SY, 18" Turbo Twist
The new remote have 2 years warranty according to the service advisor.
Good luck!
Eddiemou
------------------------------
99 C2 SY, 18" Turbo Twist
07-20-2004, 06:29 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
IMHO I don't think replacing the key remotes is the answer.
He already has two keys. Each with a remote head that "did" work.
He's tried them but they don't work. I can't believe both key remotes
could have gone faulty at the same time. At best the dealer may need to reprogram the computer using the remote key heads he already has.
I think that's the next move. The dash lock switch works and the dash imobiliser LED flashes. You can lock the car with the key and all the doors lock. Possible suspect horn. This tells me the lockung circuit works and the imobiliser works too. The only thing is that your OBC is not recognising the key head. So the next thing is to get the dealer to reprogram the computer with your keys.
Best of luck with it.
Cheers,
He already has two keys. Each with a remote head that "did" work.
He's tried them but they don't work. I can't believe both key remotes
could have gone faulty at the same time. At best the dealer may need to reprogram the computer using the remote key heads he already has.
I think that's the next move. The dash lock switch works and the dash imobiliser LED flashes. You can lock the car with the key and all the doors lock. Possible suspect horn. This tells me the lockung circuit works and the imobiliser works too. The only thing is that your OBC is not recognising the key head. So the next thing is to get the dealer to reprogram the computer with your keys.
Best of luck with it.
Cheers,
07-22-2004, 11:14 AM
#27
8th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2001
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Hi from Oz. First post. Just got my car back today after putting up with this problem for several weeks. Under warranty, dealer installed new aerial, new receiver and supplied new keys, all working at higher frequency (433 MHz). Original components worked at 320 or 350 Mhz (not sure which). Symptoms were intermittent failure of remote to lock or unlock doors unless holding key directly adjacent to the left door pillar, where the aerial is located. Typically occurred in areas of possible radio or magnetic interference, such as phone towers. I was told I am not the only local customer with this problem.
BTW, RMS replaced at 16000Km for minor leak and 2nd RMS about to be replaced at 20,000 Km.
BTW, RMS replaced at 16000Km for minor leak and 2nd RMS about to be replaced at 20,000 Km.
11-13-2004, 03:31 AM
#28
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Russ Morcom
Under warranty, dealer installed new aerial, new receiver and supplied new keys, all working at higher frequency (433 MHz). Original components worked at 320 or 350 Mhz (not sure which).
11-17-2004, 06:47 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
I had my keys 'repaired' today. They put in new electronics and reprogrammed them. My extended warranty covered it, so I only paid the deductible ($100). Otherwise it would have been almost $500.
